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| SpeedyED |
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Hi all, it's been a while since I've posted up on the forums!
I've got a new car now, it's a white DL LTD, V8, Cappa Interior, all bog standard, second ever owner of the car. Anyhow's, Right Front window doesn't work, and naturally it needs to work so it passes a roadworthy, so at this stage I'm just after some suggestions on where to look. A couple of pointers should be pointed out too, the drivers mirror will only go from side to side, it won't go up or down, the electric antenna doesn't work and the central locking button inside the car doesn't work either. Other than that, everything else works, Both electric seats have full working functionality, etc etc. I was thinking the BCM, because of the fact that there are a few other things inside the car that don't work, but I'm not totally sure if that's the thing I should be looking at, hence why I'm posting for some suggestions. Cheers guys, Speedy
_________________ Pre AU Adapters for sale Last edited by SpeedyED on Wed Aug 31, 2011 8:02 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
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| Waggin |
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The power windows don't go via the BCM. Check if there's voltate getting to the window motor when you press the switch up and down. Also check on the back of the switch bank to make sure its sending 12V when you press the switch. Assuming all that is good - then its a dead motor. Confirm by applying 12V manually and see if it winds
 As for the mirror, its not the switch - since I assume the left mirror is fine. Again, could be a motor or wiring fault. I dare say the same troubleshooting routine exists for the pwr antenna. Get up the back with 12V and see if you can make it move. Check the switch, check the pwr antenna relay out from the headunit etc etc.
_________________ WAG363: AUII LTD Supercharged 363 Dart Stroker [Supercharged 363 LTD Build] |
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| SpeedyED |
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Hi Waggin, thanks for the quick reply!
Yes, left Window Mirror works fine, goes up and down, left and right with no issues, and I'm assuming that your assuming that the headunit, cd stacker, subwoofer, speakers, etc etc area all factory, nothing aftermarket in the sound department? 
_________________ Pre AU Adapters for sale |
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| Waggin |
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Whether it be factory HU or aftermarket - there is still a pwr antenna relay out from the HU. Now, from there I assume it goes to the bem which contains the relay. Im pretty sure these pwr antennae fail regularly, so I'd be sniffing around there before worrying too much about the HU output or BEM relay.
_________________ WAG363: AUII LTD Supercharged 363 Dart Stroker [Supercharged 363 LTD Build] |
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| SpeedyED |
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Sweet, I'll work out those 2 minors at a later date after the car has a roadworthy cert and it's in my name
.Any idea's for the central locking button on the dashboard too?
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| SpeedyED |
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Well I replaced the window switch today (the middle rear window lock button didn't work on the old one anyway), and I the rear window switches now work too, the drivers window still didn't work though, so I did what you said and hook the regulator to 12v from the car's battery and I still had nothing, so it's definitely the regulator that's gone.
Are there any posts out there for taking the old regulator off? it looks like it's connected from factory to stay in the door forever...
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| Waggin |
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Angle grinder.
_________________ WAG363: AUII LTD Supercharged 363 Dart Stroker [Supercharged 363 LTD Build] |
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| snap0964 |
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^^^^^ Actually if you're careful, you can take those rivet heads off with a grinder.
Speedy, read the doco Dude.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| Waggin |
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One should always be careful with a grinder in hand
Is there a proper tool for the job in this case? I've always just ground mine off 
_________________ WAG363: AUII LTD Supercharged 363 Dart Stroker [Supercharged 363 LTD Build] |
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| Gab1 |
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drill
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| SpeedyED |
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I used the drill to get them off, although I now think that a grinder would have been the better way of getting those damned things off, I ended up drilling into the palm of my hand when the drill bit slipped off that soft alloy bit, the mess I made with the blood wasn't exactly pretty either
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| SpeedyED |
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snap0964 wrote: ^^^^^ Actually if you're careful, you can take those rivet heads off with a grinder. Speedy, read the doco Dude. I used your electric window converstion guide to assist me in getting the rivit head's off, When I fitted the brand new geniune ford Regulator I used cap screw's with a washer on the end of the cap and free running nuts (We use cap screw's all the time in go kart's, so the use of allen key tools make's things nice and easy).
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| OZBMX |
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SpeedyED wrote: I used the drill to get them off, although I now think that a grinder would have been the better way of getting those damned things off, I ended up drilling into the palm of my hand when the drill bit slipped off that soft alloy bit, the mess I made with the blood wasn't exactly pretty either eek don't get me wrong I've f**k up before and drilled my hand, but honestly, in that case how did you drill your hand though
_________________ Signature removed by moderator.signature must not exceed 120x500 pixles |
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| snap0964 |
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OZBMX wrote: SpeedyED wrote: I used the drill to get them off, although I now think that a grinder would have been the better way of getting those damned things off, I ended up drilling into the palm of my hand when the drill bit slipped off that soft alloy bit, the mess I made with the blood wasn't exactly pretty either eek don't get me wrong I've f**k up before and drilled my hand, but honestly, in that case how did you drill your hand though Definitely don't let him loose with a grinder. Waggin wrote: Is there a proper tool for the job in this case? I've always just ground mine off Not that I know of.drill, centrepunch, hammer, sidecutters, etc. Tap out the centre stud, centrepop a few points on the head, drill in those points - drill down enough to weaken the head, remove head bits with sidecutters or similar - tap remaining rivet out. This takes a bit of time, but the rivet is removed, and the doorskin isn't butchered. Your drill has less risk of slipping off also (Speedy take note). I know some people have said they've drilled them out in one action, but make sure you tap that centre portion out - it's hard as.
_________________ 96 XH Longreach 'S': LPG, Alarm, 3.23:1 LSD, Cruise, Trip Comp, ABS, Power Windows, Mid Series Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl |
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| SpeedyED |
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OZBMX wrote: SpeedyED wrote: I used the drill to get them off, although I now think that a grinder would have been the better way of getting those damned things off, I ended up drilling into the palm of my hand when the drill bit slipped off that soft alloy bit, the mess I made with the blood wasn't exactly pretty either eek don't get me wrong I've f**k up before and drilled my hand, but honestly, in that case how did you drill your hand though I was holding the inner skin of the door for support not far from where I was drilling. Seem's like Snappa's been changing window regulator's for YEARS! I've only changed 1  . Thank's for the tip on getting them out dude .I did sort of butcher the skin of the door up a bit from using the drill, but the washer under the cap screw just about hides it all.
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