Ok then, have put the CC into diagonistics mode and tested, no faults, you can hear the blend motor moving over its range, the heater valve is operating, so any more bright ideas, could the blend motor flap be broken from the arm or what?

Ok I fixed my problem today, blend door was working fine, no errors on the CC diagnostic display.

First thing I did was flushed out the heater core.
I did this by removing the heater tap, disconnecting the other heater hose and connecting an adaptor to the exit heater hose. The adaptor I made up to connect a water hose and a air line up together. Once in place I turned on the water and periodically blasted compressed air through the heater core.

Secondly I found that the heater tap that I had installed only a few months ago was not opening fully. I bent the actuating lever slightly so it is now fully open with no vacuum attached. After replacing everything I then refilled the cooling system and ran car up to operating temp. inserting a digital thermometer into the face level air vents with the CC set to 32deg, air temp reached 52 degrees, gotta be happy with that. I then lowered the CC set point to 16deg and the air temp at the air vents dropped down to 14 degrees.

did any crap come out from your flushing excercise?

Yeah a bit, though I think the main cause of the problem was the fact that the heater tap wasn't fully opening.

thermostat.

I too have the dreaded E2 error. ( blend door motor)
I have an additional problem at the same time. My temp gauge stays below the normal temp while driving. I can get it up to normal if I run at 3 or 4K revs for about 5 minites and then I get some warm air inside the car from the CC. I have changed the temp sender unit without improvement.
My question is this. Does the blend door control the water flow into the CC or the air flow or both and would a faulty blend door affect the temp gauge???

Thanks in advance for any help offered.

Blend door only controls blending cool air with warm air from heater. This is so you get a quicker response when changing temperature. Imagine having to wait until the heater core cooled down to get cool air. The CC uses this with fan speed to control temp.
Water flow is controled by the water tap and is either fully open or fully closed.

What temp thermostat are you running?

I don't know what temp the thermistat is. I just bought the one Ford supplied me for my car. I did test it with the old one and the new one opened a little later than the old one.

Standard thermostat should be 92deg, (starts to open) this should be stamped into the body of the thermostat.

Well here is an update to the above problem and what I found out and how I fixed it.
The blend door error E2 had displayed in the diagnostic mode, so I removed the dash and what I discovered was that the bled door motor was in perfect working order BUT the blend door itself was binding ever so slightly on the closed section, just enough so the little motor couldn't move it. I worked the door back and forth for awhile to try and free it but couldn't. I decided to remove the motor arm from the splined shaft and moved it just one spline towards the open direction and tried it on the door. It worked perfectly for the hour or so that I tested it just to make sure. Wasn't going to put the dash back in until I was absolutely sure the problem was resolved. Double checked the fresh/recycle door and vac actuator too and gave it a spray of silicon lube and it was working perfectly.
Installed the dash and ran diagnostics and no errors.

However still no warm air from the heater. So I removed the thermostat housing and before I removed the thermostat I looked inside the housing and I could see that the thermostat was stuck open. As I said in my original post I had tried 2 new thermostats but now I could see what the problem was. I had bought the thermostats from a Auto One shop and both times he had given me a 6 cylinder one instead of what I had asked for, an 8 cylinder one. The 6 cylinder ones have a spring loaded valve that closes the bypass when the thermostat opens fully. The V8 thermostats don't have this. So the thermostats I had been sold were opening ok a couple of times but then at some stage the bypass valve jammed itself against the bend of the housing and locked itself in the open position. I could see scratch marks on the housing where this valve had been scrapping a few times till it eventually jammed.

Now with a new correct thermostat (192F, Doesn't show C) and the blend door motor adjustment I now have an engine running at normal temps and the climate control is working perfectly as well.

So 2 separate problems with very simple solutions but a lot of work involved. I now don't trust parts suppliers but ask them to double check they are giving me the correct parts before I pay for them.

Thanks for everyones help and advice.

Cheers.

Apparently Genuine Ford 6 cylinder thermostats now don't have that bypass valve either.