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Simple DIY remote start circuit using relays 

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 11:05 am 
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Im a little confused in how the boot will work.

I can see that the remote start will be done by pressung the boot lid button on the remote but how will you open the boot lid with the remote?

 

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Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 11:18 am 
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Im assuming you wont stomper, and might have to use the "shock horror" Key!! to open your boot (or the release in the car:P)
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Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 8:14 pm 
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hold on a second guys!


your saying that i can have remote start using the boot release on my keypad? Hrm...


what wires do i have to cut into now :twisted:
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Posted: Wed Mar 28, 2007 9:27 pm 
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If you use the boot signal, you would generally disconnect the boot solenoid from that circuit, and use the inside release or key.

 

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Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 12:18 am 
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As per usual - EBGizmo raises the standard for innovative ideas that are easy and cheap to build.
EBGizmo wrote:
If you use the boot signal, you would generally disconnect the boot solenoid from that circuit, and use the inside release or key.
How about using a 5 pin relay (SPDT):
pins 86/85 (relay coil): earth and either lock/unlock line of the door lock actuators.
pin 30: boot release line from BEM.
pins 87/87a:line to boot lock solenoid/line to relay 2 remote start.
What I'm suggesting here is to use the relay as an interlock - the door lock/unlock lines are always opposite polarity, so you can set the relay up to enable remote start when doors are locked, and boot release when doors are unlocked. So lock/unlock the doors, and press boot release for the desired function.
Hope this makes sense. . . . .

 

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Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 7:26 am 
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Sounds like a good idea :)

 

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Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 9:10 pm 
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Yeah thanks.
Another thing I didn't mention is to setup the relay coil not drawing any power when doors are locked (one side to earth, other side is -ve), as normally most times the car is parked and engine stopped.

 

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97 EL Futura S/W: LPG, Alarm, LED int Lts, Trip Comp, F/Lane Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl, T5 Conversion

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Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 9:13 pm 
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i noticed my avatar now says i'm a technical contributor. When did that go up? :D

 

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EB II Sedan <--- R.I.P. (Rest in pieces - gone to the wreckers for $50...... bargain!)

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Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 9:44 pm 
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Most likely after your Smartlock bypass doco.

 

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97 EL Futura S/W: LPG, Alarm, LED int Lts, Trip Comp, F/Lane Dome Lt, Climate Ctrl, T5 Conversion

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Posted: Thu Mar 29, 2007 10:49 pm 
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I dunno - it never got uploaded. Some conspiracy ;-)

 

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EB II Sedan <--- R.I.P. (Rest in pieces - gone to the wreckers for $50...... bargain!)

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Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 6:03 pm 
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Does anyone know where I can get a 12v 30A DPDT relay from? Every auto electricians I have been into in Ballarat has nothing remotely close to it. Anyone got any ideas?

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 6:43 pm 
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Jaycar have 10A versions. There are seven stores in Vic.

If you can't get a hold of one, you can use two SPDT automotive relays with their coils in parallel.

By the way, relay 1 only needs to be SPST, so one automotive "cube" relay will suit.

You can probably get away with using the Jaycar 10A/240V SY-4065
When I built mine for the EB, I only used a 10A SY-4008. It never game me any hassles.

I only used overkill values on the diagram as the ignition switch is generally rated very high. Whether it actually needs to be is another matter, as a lot of things under the hood are powered by relays already (fuel pump, power relay).

It may not have to supply anything near 30A (I haven't metered it), but the only thing that will burn out if ignition draws too much power, is the relay. You could put a 10amp fuse in the circuit between the IGN label on the diagram, and Relay 1. This will protect both relays, and it will also tell you if you are drawing more than 10-ish amps. In fact, I should have included one in the diagram.

I really need a gregories manual, as my Ellery's contains so many errors in wiring, I don't trust it anymore.


Someone here has already built this, and tells me it starts and cranks fine. Maybe he will step up and let you know himself what relays he used ;-)

 

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LSD High, 3.23, Black wheels, other shiny bits.

EB II Sedan <--- R.I.P. (Rest in pieces - gone to the wreckers for $50...... bargain!)

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Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 9:02 pm 
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i was waiting till you did it before i did the thing.

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 10, 2007 10:23 pm 
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Many thanks to Shannonwulff for pointing out a few obvious things I missed in the design.

He brought up several points, such as the BEM positive disable on the starter relay. The starter relay needs to get its coil positive from the ignition barrel when using an ECU bypass module (I missed this one, as my own bypass mod is done at the keybarrel, and not the ECU)

Shannonwulff also pointed out that anti-restart is not a necessity, as once ignition is on, the keyfobs do not work. You may want to keep this feature, however. If you own an LPG car that has variable crank times (ie stubborn starts!) you may want an extended crank time. The anti restart feature will stop it cranking once it has kicked over, even if there is still cranking time left in the capacitor.

Many thanks once again :)

 

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EF II Sedan
Ex Chaser, Dual Fuel (Impco LPG)
LSD High, 3.23, Black wheels, other shiny bits.

EB II Sedan <--- R.I.P. (Rest in pieces - gone to the wreckers for $50...... bargain!)

Last edited by EBGizmo on Thu Apr 12, 2007 7:15 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Smartlock bypass
Posted: Wed Apr 11, 2007 10:56 pm 
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Will this still work if the smartlock isn't bypassed but the key is in the ignition?

Also, do all the positives come straight from the battery? If not, where do I connect them to?

 

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