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How To Tune Your LPG system at home 

 

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Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 8:54 pm 
Parts Gopher
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Location: cairns
QLD, Australia

so the sensitivity is the idel and the bypass is for the rest of the operation ??? still seems backwood to me
im still confused the two adjustments limit the gas flow throught the converter as i am lean when accelerating, so i figer i need more bypass and less sensitiverty, as i am rich at idle and 60 km/h cruse
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Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 9:43 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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You may need a new HEGO (oxygen) sensor like I did. My consumption dropped heaps after I changed it.

 

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Posted: Sun Aug 17, 2008 9:45 pm 
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BUG just throw that BRC junk away.
The OMVL is the way to go and brand new ones are only $330. I will get a new one if I cant fix the leaky one I have.

 

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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 7:02 am 
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i think mine has omlv written on the converter and new o2 sensor on the way $66 of ebay . when i get that ill try a retune
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Posted: Mon Aug 18, 2008 9:50 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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I am so stoked.
The OMVL converter starts from stone cold winter freezing with no stalling or hesitation. I just need to get the 2nd stage sorted so it gets some power under load and the EF will be running beautifully.

The car has never run right cold since the day I bought it 7 years ago.

If only I had known Fordmods then LOL.

I so wish I had changed the converter years ago.
I have been screwing around with the damn BRC crap for years.

 

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Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 7:18 pm 
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what do u mean 2nd stage
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Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 8:31 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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http://www.omvlgas.it/upload/product/OM ... Bbassa.pdf

check it out

 

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Posted: Tue Aug 19, 2008 9:34 pm 
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wow buzz words nar dont get it whats 2nd stage
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Posted: Wed Aug 20, 2008 7:15 am 
Getting Side Ways
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I am not an expert, hence the system is still not working right.
I think I may need a washer in the 2nd diaghram.
See Walker's pictures

 

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Posted: Wed Aug 27, 2008 7:53 pm 
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Location: cairns
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still waiting for o2 analiser. but did a service and put a new air filter in when i drove to work the next day the car idled lower then before and rough at times and leaned out under acceleration sooner then be for. I used a cheap filter i got of eBay not the stranded item i am thinking it actually flows less then the old dirty one. as the idle bypass valve is always open when using lpg. the air fuel gage reads rich at idle even thought its running rough i uped the sensertivity and it ran better havent taken it for a run yet

Was just wondering what type of air filters you all use and whether you noticed a differance when going to a high flow filter.
also if any one has fitted a larger idle air bypass valve what did you use and did it help much
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Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 7:16 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Mine is now running really well. I was actually almost out of gas, hence no power under load.

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 4:26 pm 
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Hi guys,
Pretty sure ive got an OMVL system although only seem to be able to find the idle screw on the converter, and the power valve located on the air line between mixer ring and converter.
Basically the car runs pretty well, with smooth power all through the rev range although the economy and performance have slowly been dropping off over time.

The problem Im having is that particularly when cold, upon quickly releasing the throttle or quickly getting onto the brakes, the revs instantly drop to 1000rpm and then continue to fall as im braking. Occasionally it will stall.
car runs perfectly on petrol so convinced its either the converter which Ive been told will need replacement/servicing before too long, or a tuning issue.


I have adjusted the idle screw to its sweet spot. It seems as though turning it either in or out from its current position, makes it idle lower. I also experimented with turning the power valve out which seemed to provide a little more mid-range power but do nothing for the idle/decel problem.

What would people suggest in terms of tuning the particular system I have?
Can post pics if need be.

 

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Posted: Thu Aug 28, 2008 8:12 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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that's what my old one did. used to stall on me all the time when cold.

 

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Posted: Mon Sep 01, 2008 11:02 am 
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Well it seems that with a bit of messing around, I seem to have temporarily fixed the problem.
As above, the idle screw on the converter was at its highest, as turning it either way would make it idle lower.
So I was experimenting with turning the power valve out, assuming that the car was running lean on decel. After a bit of "drive-adjust-drive some more-adjust some more" i realised that the further i turned out the power valve, the lower the revs would drop.
After turning the power valve in about 2 turns and bumping up the base idle on the TB screw, it now idles smoothly at about 800rpm. The revs still drop a little bit during hard braking but never to below 500rpm. It also seems to have improved the off-idle response, perhaps not as rich as it was before.

Just thought id add this for people like Rick above, who may be having similar problems.

 

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Rebuilt Motor, Wade 1004, 2.5" Exhaust, Genie Extractors, TIP J3 Chip, Sprint Kit, 18" BAXR8 Rims

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Posted: Tue Oct 14, 2008 5:11 pm 
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Ride: BA Ford Fairlane V8

Location: Lower Hunter Valley
NSW, Australia

I followed the instructions from the 1st post and now my cammed V8 idles better than ever! Also the car doesn't surge around corners in 2nd gear anymore, it is so drivable now, more so now than ever. Very happy days here :)

 

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