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LPG not working properly 

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 28, 2007 4:56 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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its really hard to follow what your problem is..

can u in a couple of sentences state what system you have and also the problem youve got..

theres too much info to sift though.

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 28, 2007 8:47 pm 
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find out what converter it is please.

Does the Converter leak coolant ?

and washing the plate in fuel is okay.
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Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 9:46 am 
Getting Side Ways
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garsiph wrote:
find out what converter it is please.

Does the Converter leak coolant ?

and washing the plate in fuel is okay.

It is an OMVL R90e. (mentioned earlier).

The only leak i've seen from the converter is one i noticed after shutting down the engine once or twice, coming from the elbow that one of the heater hoses connects to. It seems this could only be addressed from inside the converter, but i haven't seen it leaking since. (mentioned earlier). The hose has been rubbing against the underside of the bonnet, which i've just adjusted upwards as it sat low.

[I just inspected the metering valve for my own interest. It didn't seem to need cleaning and i couldn't visually see anything wrong with it.]

 

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Last edited by relaxed_diplomacy on Sun Dec 30, 2007 12:10 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 12:03 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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gogetta wrote:
its really hard to follow what your problem is . . can u in a couple of sentences state what system you have and also the problem youve got..
Thanks for the offer Gogetta, but at the moment i'm thinking Garsiph and myself are almost there.


A summary might be good anyway. My summary is as follows:
- Engine runs rough on LPG, very low power, stalls easily, revs drop significantly when switched from petrol to LPG. Engine starts and runs well on petrol.
- Tank has 1/4 LPG, tank manual valve is open, shut offs are clicking, converter installed in 1994, balance pipe is clear, LPG metering valve is not clogged, mixer plate is clean, LPG module/switch is switching properly.


Quote:
theres too much info to sift though.
Okay, but i'm not a mechanic. I often don't know what's relevant.

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 5:35 pm 
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http://forum.difflock.com/viewtopic.php ... 613549d2e9

Try following what the guy says here.
see if that helps.

if the regulator is leeking coolant thats not a good thing.

the unit may need dismantling and cleaning out :/
not a easy job.
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Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 10:43 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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garsiph wrote:
http://forum.difflock.com/viewtopic.php?t=14927&sid=cdcce0e122852d4f5f52fb613549d2e9

Try following what the guy says here.
see if that helps.

if the regulator is leeking coolant thats not a good thing.

the unit may need dismantling and cleaning out :/
not a easy job.

While i load the link . . . if i get a new one where do you recommend me getting one, sounds like you know where to get them cheap? Some other fordmods posts suggest they can be bought new on ebay but i can't find them, though i found a secondhand one that supposedly works fine which i could get delivered for around $35. I can otherwise check out that not-so-local lpg mechanic.

If i pull mine apart i'm guessing i would probably need to renew some seals . . . and then want a full overhaul kit . . which i'm led to believe aren't much cheaper than a new one, . . . so maybe i won't bother.

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 10:51 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Here's the link, i'll try it.

"To get a pretty good setting without test gear -
Open the screw valve (power valve) in the delivey hose to around 75%
open and follow first part of set-up as below. ie. The almost stalling
procedure.
Then set the throttle to cruising revs and HOLD throttle position
STEADY. Screw the power valve in until the revs just start to drop off
a little. Then open the power valve again until the revs pick up. (If
the revs pick up as you wind in then keep screwing in until you reach
the drop off point.)

Re-adjust idle.

Drive the vehicle. If lack of power then open power valve 1/4 turn at
a time. If fuel consumption is too high, then close the power valve a
little at a time. Don't overdo the economy, you don't want the mixture
too lean."

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 30, 2007 11:02 pm 
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For Spares try Repco, Veales or Coventrys.
Somone will carry one.

Dont be afraid to mail order from the city give them the part number and ask how much to post to you.

Phill
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Posted: Mon Dec 31, 2007 10:59 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Some more news. I adjusted the tuning screws to see if i could get decent running and not much happenned until eventually it just stalled. Then there was loud hissing as gas escaped from two heater hose locations i had previously fully tightened. So i'm thinking LPG is getting into the heater side of things. So i'm thinking rebuild or replace.

While repco get back to me i obtained a quote from an LPG mechanic:
rebuild kit $110 plus freight
new unit $290 plus freight (12 month warranty)
1 hour to tune $88/hr (!)

I might put a kit in myself.

The above bloke uses spiral leads and NGK BB6EY plugs, he doesn't advance the timing even if PULP is used. He said the ECU adjusts the timing anyway, but when i asked if it adjusts it up for LPG he said no(?).

Elsewhere on this forum the recommendation is 9mm leads, XR6 plugs, advance the timing and use PULP.

Any thoughts Garsiph or anyone else?

 

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