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New OMVL vapouriser probs 

 

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 Post subject: New OMVL vapouriser probs
Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 4:37 am 
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Installed OMVL R90 as a replacement for old vapouriser.

Car is saab 9000 2.0 turbo.

Problem is no power above 2,250rpm!

I specifically ordered the compensated version for turbos, but how do I know I got the right one?

Have tried all manner of different settings for the adjuster screws :(

Thinking it might be the diaphram not working? Not sure if it should be vacuum or positive air pressure on the diaphram. I have it piped up to a take off the inlet pipe between intercooler and throttle.
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Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 6:13 am 
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Well, would you believe it.

Brand new (well I hope it was) and the spring that should be inside the main adjuster wasnt there - it was loose in the box!!!!

How on earth did that happen?

Anyway, put the spring inside where it should be. Runs better but not brilliant . Have the main adjuster screw almost out too....
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Posted: Tue Apr 24, 2007 11:19 am 
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http://www.fordmods.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=45141

In that thread i explain how to get it to richen, is that the spring you're talking about?
If so, stick a washer behind it and see how it goes.
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Posted: Fri May 04, 2007 8:20 am 
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The spring was missing from inside the reducer!!!

have put the spring back where it should be.

Have tried to tune the reducer but to no avail.

It idles, but as soon as you try and accelerate it judders, like it really doesnt want to run on gas....

I can just about cruise at 70mph, but try and accelerate and the juddering comes back.
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Posted: Fri May 04, 2007 8:30 am 
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did you buy this from Swede on Ebay? You are in Brittain right? Have you opened both sides of the reducer? Make sure the Balance pipe is connected and not blocked.
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Posted: Fri May 04, 2007 8:40 am 
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Purchased from Jaymic Systems Ltd in UK.

Where is the balance pipe?
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Posted: Fri May 04, 2007 9:08 am 
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I am just wondering if the diaphragm is not able to move properly. There may be a rubber bung on the vent/balance pipe????
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Posted: Fri May 04, 2007 9:41 am 
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Not sure where the balance pipe is.
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Posted: Fri May 04, 2007 10:03 am 
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the reducer works by the diaphragm moving when the pressure on one side(the intake mixer) is lower than the other side(the atmoshere). when this happens then the diaphagm moves and opens the jet letting out gas into the intake. If the atmosphere side is blocked then the diaphagm cannot move freely and be balanced. There should be a hose from the back of the regulator to the air filter box on your car.
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Posted: Fri May 04, 2007 10:08 am 
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As I said above, there is a pipe from the back of the diaphram and this connected to the inlet pipe between intercooler and throttle.

I will check in the morning to see if any holes are blocked.

As its a turbo, a positive pressure would be put on the diaphram?

Thanks for your help so far
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Posted: Fri May 04, 2007 10:51 am 
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Seeing as it's new, why not take it back to them?
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Posted: Sat May 05, 2007 4:11 am 
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It was ordered by post. It would be my cost to send it back. Also need the car daily to drive 75 miles (120kms) each day.

Too costly in petrol!

So unless, i can prove its faulty or the wrong one....But taking it to a local LPG fitter tomorrow to see if they tune it (though only using the adjusters on the reducer).

They reckon it could be by direct ignition cassette.
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Posted: Sat May 05, 2007 4:28 am 
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direct ignition wtf??!?!?
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Posted: Sat May 05, 2007 6:05 pm 
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alot of saab 9000 engines use a direct ignition system. no spark plug leads.

Is a big long cassette that fits over the spark plugs - effetively four coils directly onto the spark plugs.
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Posted: Sat May 05, 2007 9:47 pm 
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I would try disconnecting the balance pipe (black elbow on back of convertor). I would then turn in the idle bypass all the way in (the smallest screw). I would then open the mixture screw almost all the way out and start the car. It will run like crap. Start turning the mixture screw in until the idle smooths out then starts running rough again. Turn the screw out until the idle is nice and smooth. Try and get it about midway between smooth point, if you get my drift.

This should get you up and running and is the way that OMVL are now recommending to set the convertor, ie no idle bypass.

To get it running better you could connect a multimeter to the O2 sensor (I stick a pin in the back of the sensor wire so that I can get a reading). Try and get the multi to bounce between 400-600mV at idle and when you spike the throttle the multi should only dip below 400mV for a fraction of a second if at all. It is all a balancing act. (I am assuming here that you have an electronically controlled solenoid controlling the mixture flow)

cheers
Scott

 

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