
|
| ea_falcon |
|
||
|
turbo_ghia what kti do you have and what size turbo?
r u rnning the auto trans
_________________ 02 series 3 AU marline ute 5speed 347 stroker |
||
| Top | |
||
| TURBO_GHIA |
|
|||
|
its a TO4E turbo ,and yes running auto gearbox
_________________ HMMMM BOOST !!!
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| low_ryda |
|
|||
|
how long does stainless tube, i'm asuming 1.6mm wall, last for with use as exaust manifolds ?
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| TURBO_GHIA |
|
|||
|
how long's a piece of string
your best off using something a little thicker or steampipe
_________________ HMMMM BOOST !!!
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Mr.Kiss |
|
|||
|
Here are some pics of my EF when i was turbo'ing it before I decided to sell it and just buy a BA
_________________ My Cars |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| doofus |
|
|||
|
What kind of manifolds you guys using? is there a certain one that works best or all the same in the end?
_________________
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| TURBO_GHIA |
|
|||
|
theres only really 2 types log style or tuned length
_________________ HMMMM BOOST !!!
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| turbotrana |
|
||||||
|
Here are some pics that may help you. One log turbo set up made out of steel steam pipe bends, the tubular made out of 316 stainless steel pipe bends.
If you want the manifold to last you may be better off with steel steam pipe. There was a shift to using stainless steel 316 but I think mild steel does crack less and the better one to use. I really only used stainless steel for the heat retention properties and there is no schedule 10 mild steel steam pipe, but if there was schedule 10 steel steam pipe I would use that (sched 40 is thicker, heavier and harder to work with, good for log but not so much for tubular). Definately thin walled stainless steel or mild steel is out if you want a durable and long lasting setup.
_________________ Turbo 6s rule |
||||||
| Top | |
||||||
| DA22LE |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: Definately thin walled stainless steel or mild steel is out if you want a durable and long lasting setup.
Depends who makes it.............stainless steel is tougher, so less prone to cracking. My thin wall S/S tube manifold is still going strong after nearly a year.......and yes i have checked for cracking. Prolly will crack eventually, but that would be anyones guess as to when, or if ??
_________________ BA XR8 Boss 260 |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| EBXR8380 |
|
|||
|
Ceramic coated steam pipe takes some beating...
Holds heat in better than s/s... But at the power levels you are possibly going to be using?? It doesn't really matter.. If it works ?? A "good" designed log has less surface area which helps keep under bonnet temps down.. Having said that all the manifolds we have are unequal length 6 into 1 or 2 X's 4 into 1 [twin turbo V8]...http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/E ... pes003.jpg http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y146/E ... inDart.jpg
_________________ As in ZOOM 126 edition |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| EBXR8380 |
|
|||
|
More pics.. Ford V8...
_________________ As in ZOOM 126 edition Last edited by EBXR8380 on Thu Dec 31, 2009 11:39 pm, edited 1 time in total. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| turbotrana |
|
||
|
Great work there. Only one thing better than a turbo 6 and thats a turbo 8.
This is a quote from Zoom No124 that just came out. Page 80 "picking the right kind of turbocharger exhaust manifold material is a genuine catch-22 situation. By that we mean -and this is fact- what tends to look the goods doesn't end up working the best. Its hard to resist the lure of a polished stainless manifold, so many put this on the top of their list when it comes time to choose a turbocharger system. The reality is that from a material perspective, there is very little good about stainless steel, particularly the kinds of steel often used for high temperature turbocharger exhaust manifolds. Sit back and have a read of a material data sheet....... A commonly used material - for the bling factor and its low price - is 316- grade schedule 10 stainless steel. It looks great when polished and is relatively cheapto purchase...... The actual raw data for the material is very scary, though with 316 sched 10 having an intermittent heat rating of 450 deg C and a continuous rating of over 300 deg C. While a 316 stainless manifold will put up with much higher temps showing no obvious side effect, even over short periods of time - the pure physics state that you are indeed irreversibly changing the state of the material. The indicators of a stainless steel manifold starting to fail are darkness of welds and collector joints....... at this point heat has crystallised the material and no amount of restitching the cracks with a welder will fix it...." Its a good article and I wholy agree with the author Martin Donnon
_________________ Turbo 6s rule |
||
| Top | |
||
| Mackagtho |
|
||
|
this is my mates Turbo EF and his set up
600kw atomic bottom end Ported head custom cam Haltech ecu Snort Stage 4 700hp kit Tsunami fuel pump Garrett AR 70 Turbo {DESCRIPTION} {DESCRIPTION}
_________________ ED Fairmont, XR lights, AU tickford 200kw, GT-P 18's, TwEEcer, 230kw, KAAZ LSD. |
||
| Top | |
||
| EL-XR6 |
|
|||
|
||||
| Top | |
|||
| low_ryda |
|
|||
|
also referred to as hot shortness
heating beyond critical temp changes the grain structure (increases) plus the bigger the manifold the more stress is put on the pipework causing more vibration/movement causing work hardening also. not that i'm by any means a manifold maker, just a boilermaker. but i'm keen to learn
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests |