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Running in new motor 

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 17, 2009 11:48 am 
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so a spirited drive seems to be the go for the run in process, Oh BTW, its an EB motor, Standard rods, complete ACL race rebuild with mild dishtops. will be winding the boost down as much as possible during the run in period. there will be times that I will not be able to avoid cruising around during this time, but from the first key turn the car will get some enthusiam via the accelerator.

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 17, 2009 11:50 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: 98 NL, 97NL, 98EL

Power: 141 rwkw

Location: Sunny Coast or Beerburrum
QLD, Australia

dc_todd wrote:
so a spirited drive seems to be the go for the run in process, Oh BTW, its an EB motor, Standard rods, complete ACL race rebuild with mild dishtops. will be winding the boost down as much as possible during the run in period. there will be times that I will not be able to avoid cruising around during this time, but from the first key turn the car will get some enthusiam via the accelerator.


got any photo's of your car? didn't you have a EF or a EL?

Laticia.

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 17, 2009 6:35 pm 
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dc_todd wrote:
so a spirited drive seems to be the go for the run in process, Oh BTW, its an EB motor, Standard rods, complete ACL race rebuild with mild dishtops. will be winding the boost down as much as possible during the run in period. there will be times that I will not be able to avoid cruising around during this time, but from the first key turn the car will get some enthusiam via the accelerator.


cut and paste from motoman and don't skip the warm up phase....

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------
On the Street:
Warm the engine up completely:
Because of the wind resistance, you don't need to use higher gears like you would on a dyno machine. The main thing is to load the engine by opening the throttle hard in 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear.

Realistically, you won't be able to do full throttle runs even in 2nd gear on most bikes without exceeding 65 mph / 104 kph. The best method is to alternate between short bursts of hard acceleration and deceleration. You don't have to go over 65 mph / 104 kph to properly load the rings. Also, make sure that you're not being followed by another bike or car when you decelerate, most drivers won't expect that you'll suddenly slow down, and we don't want
anyone to get hit from behind !!

The biggest problem with breaking your engine in on the street (besides police) is if you ride the bike on the freeway (too little throttle = not enough pressure on the rings) or if you get stuck in slow city traffic. For the first 200 miles or so, get out into the country where you can vary the speed more
and run it through the gears !

Be Safe On The Street !
Watch your speed ! When you're not used to the handling of a new vehicle, you should accelerate only on the straightaways, then slow down extra early for the turns. Remember that both hard acceleration and hard engine braking (deceleration) are equally important during the break in process.

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 17, 2009 7:50 pm 
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Had and EL, its life was ended when I drove into an intersection and got hit by a driver who did not see me.

Now I have a Green EBII SXR6, with a snort turbo kit, and all the other bits.. manual or course.

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 12:02 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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hotwheels205 wrote:
downingj wrote:
When I ran mine it I looked all over the net for information as I wanted to run it properly.

Everyone had a different opinion so I just decided to drive it like I normally would (relatively sedate with the odd fang here and there) and it's making more power and torque than my old motor.

Just avoid taking it to redline until you change the oil and I would suggest not spining the turbo up too hard for the last two or three minutes of drive home. And I ALWAYS make sure I idle down. And ALWAYS idle the car until at operating temperature after a cold start - not only is this better for your engine but it also gives your box, diff, etc a chance to warm up also.
But have you felt the extra boost of compression if you done it the other way?


What ???
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Posted: Mon Jan 19, 2009 12:38 pm 
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just don't run it at full boost and don't take it over redline, apart from that run it in as you would any other engine.

We used to use Mineral oil for 1000km, dump the oil, then mineral oil again for the next 4000km before switching to synthetic. Try not to idle/cruise for any period of time, particularly early on. If you have any semi-abandoned mountain roads near you I would hit them up as they provide a good mix of acceleration/deceleration.

 

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EVL098 wrote:
Cramping in the hand from having it on your Wang for an excessive period of time is a definate con.
Seriously do people google "f**k up modifications for Fords owned by Jews" and get linked straight to this site nowadays?

AU,factory fitted tickford kit/IRS, t5,Sports ryder/KYB: gone.

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