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Running in new motor 

 

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 Post subject: Running in new motor
Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 4:15 pm 
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Hey guys, just about to pick my motor up from the machine shop to start piecing it all back together, what advise can you give for running in a fresh motor with the boost dial right back to only a few psi..?

Oil choice?
Water only I am well aware of..

Small things to look for and check.

New to the realms of turbos, asp running in a fresh motor thats blown..

Advise appreciated.

Dave

BTW Stock ECU....

 

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Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 7:17 pm 
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Hey,

Castrol ProTec mineral/synthetic fortified running in oil is what Atomic uses for their engines. Unless you can hook up a boost cut, with factory ECU ( i doubt it, Get a hobbs pressure switch ) then leave turbo off till motor is run in, then you can go for it. Driving a car with a boost-cut is an absolute P.I.T.A

My 2 cents
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Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 8:19 pm 
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Either soft and gentle or hard and fast.

Different people have different thoughts.

I know Kawasaki go hard and fast and we have had race engines run in on the dyno and they have all been ripper engines.
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Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 10:21 pm 
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yeah run it in hard, just don't be bouncing it off limiter. and i don't like sitting it there idling for to long either, just start it and go.

go for a mineral oil. once again everyone has different idea's, but they are mine.
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Posted: Tue Jan 13, 2009 11:02 pm 
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Yeah Mineral oil was what i had in mind, just wanted some clarification on that one.. Hard and Fast? explain this method? fire her up and take her for a drive? or take her for a drive and be spirited about it?

I've run in plenty of NA motors, am i correct in assuming that the principles are still the same?

Can someone suggest timeframes for each suggested method..

Thx.

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2009 1:14 am 
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i would load it up but not rev it to much, keep idling to an absolute minimum, keep the tune on the leaner side at low loads, use mineral oil. there is no reason why u wouldn't run coolant.

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2009 2:50 am 
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new head gasket is why i wouldn't run coolant straight away.

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2009 3:20 pm 
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this is what i'm doing to my barra when its done
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm
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Posted: Wed Jan 14, 2009 8:34 pm 
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First 500 klrs gently accellerate from 60 to 100 klrs taking foot totally off throttle, this brings oil up into rings. Some hard accellerating while you have good hone to bed those rings in.. But don't get too carried away!! The last thing you want to do is overheat your rings..
Change oil after 1000 klrs to rid engine of cast from break in ..
light grade mineral oil for first 5000 klrs..
Boost should be ok if well tuned but keep it low or std..

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 9:49 am 
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lukemilnes wrote:
this is what i'm doing to my barra when its done
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


Tried that on my AU 3 or 4 years ago and it's true word for word. follow the procedures to the letter and you should see your baby with perfectly sealed and embedded rings on all cylinders.

I tend try things out side the box instead of following the agreed/consensus text book. there was a lot of what if's at the time after the recond but hay, you're not going to know if you don't try. :lol:

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 11:28 am 
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from what i've leant at work, if you treat it like a baby, it will always not have the full amount of power, but if you give it a boot, (not the rev limiter) it will get more power ...

Hence thats why you can find two EL's same motor, body etc, but one is faster than the other, its just the way the motor has been "broken in"

Just don't tow anything, and also, what car is it? and what motor are you putting in???

Laticia!!

(P.S) i learn nearly all my stuff from work!)

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 1:08 pm 
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lukemilnes wrote:
this is what i'm doing to my barra when its done
http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm


i also agree with this method..
i ran my old valiant 318 v8 this way and it still runs sweet 9 years later.(a mate owns it now)
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Posted: Fri Jan 16, 2009 1:21 pm 
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When I ran mine it I looked all over the net for information as I wanted to run it properly.

Everyone had a different opinion so I just decided to drive it like I normally would (relatively sedate with the odd fang here and there) and it's making more power and torque than my old motor.

Just avoid taking it to redline until you change the oil and I would suggest not spining the turbo up too hard for the last two or three minutes of drive home. And I ALWAYS make sure I idle down. And ALWAYS idle the car until at operating temperature after a cold start - not only is this better for your engine but it also gives your box, diff, etc a chance to warm up also.
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Posted: Sat Jan 17, 2009 1:57 am 
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downingj wrote:
When I ran mine it I looked all over the net for information as I wanted to run it properly.

Everyone had a different opinion so I just decided to drive it like I normally would (relatively sedate with the odd fang here and there) and it's making more power and torque than my old motor.

Just avoid taking it to redline until you change the oil and I would suggest not spining the turbo up too hard for the last two or three minutes of drive home. And I ALWAYS make sure I idle down. And ALWAYS idle the car until at operating temperature after a cold start - not only is this better for your engine but it also gives your box, diff, etc a chance to warm up also.
But have you felt the extra boost of compression if you done it the other way?

 

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Posted: Sat Jan 17, 2009 3:13 am 
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Penrite running in oil and just drive it hard. You want to get some pressure behind those rings to seat them. Everything else does not matter since its OHC (no cam running in).

Even use running in oil for 5000km. Wont do no harm but I think rings seated pretty much after 500km.

BTW when I assemble pistons/rings into motor I dont use oil, just CRC

 

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