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Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2005 11:39 am 
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Power: 315 rwkw

Location: Under the flight path of incoming packpackers
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The battery has now been moved to the boot. This involved buying a battery box, 5meters of battery cable and some ring joiners.
I mounted the battery in the box and bolted it to the boot floor. The cable runs through the cabin along the pas side under the carpet. I drilled a hole in the footwell, put a gromet in and poked the cable through, it comes out just under the starter motor where I conected it. the other little power wires that were on the pos post of the battery now go to the main post on the starter motor. All works well and is accually giving more power to the elec system due to the much thicker new main cable and new conectors.

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Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2005 12:11 pm 
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u need somthing to fill the gap wher ethe original air box was

 

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Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2005 7:24 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Power: 315 rwkw

Location: Under the flight path of incoming packpackers
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Its where I will mount the oil air separator... but why do you say that?
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Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2005 7:52 pm 
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Lookin good.
Time for some thermos though!

 

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Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2005 8:28 pm 
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CHEF wrote:
All works well and is accually giving more power to the elec system due to the much thicker new main cable and new conectors.


How do you know that??

I am about to do the same running 35mm welding cable up to the original location and use battery jumper terminals to terminate all the wiring cleanly and provide easy acces for jump starting front or rear.

My alternator puts out a dead flat 14.7V@idle.
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Posted: Sun Mar 20, 2005 9:04 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Power: 315 rwkw

Location: Under the flight path of incoming packpackers
NSW, Australia

it was 13.8 now 14.4, the Wolf's controller has a voltage readout
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Posted: Wed Mar 23, 2005 2:49 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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You're doing a good job there CHEF.

Can't wait to see the results you get on a dyno and on the track....when will that be btw?

 

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Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2005 6:36 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Power: 315 rwkw

Location: Under the flight path of incoming packpackers
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soon, having auto slipping issues now, Ive upped it to 15psi and its a whole new world... I need better rear tyres now!
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Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2005 8:30 pm 
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Location: melbourne
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15psi!! NIce!! Its coming along very nicely!

I want to turn the boost up on mine as I have another strengthened bottom end in the shed and want more power now. But I dont understand how to do it :( I even have a laptop now and still dont get it all.

Where did you learn to tune it? My car doesnt have an oxy sensor in it either, I have no idea how the wolf controls the air/fuel ratio. :oops:
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Posted: Sun Mar 27, 2005 9:17 pm 
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CHEF wrote:
soon, having auto slipping issues now, Ive upped it to 15psi and its a whole new world... I need better rear tyres now!


So the 3-speed is just about dead is it? :o
I thought the 3-speed could take a beating? (then again it's not made to handle 15psi is it?)

But before you mentioned it was shifting from 1st-2nd at 5000rpm, isn't that way too much for the box? Are you shifting manually from 1st to 2nd at 5000rpm, or is this controlled by the wolf?

If you don't thrash it, and drive normally (whats 'normal driving'?) is it smooth power, or it suddenly hits?

Sorry about so many questions, but I really want to know how its going!

 

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Posted: Mon Mar 28, 2005 10:55 pm 
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Dansedgli wrote:
15psi!! NIce!! Its coming along very nicely!

I want to turn the boost up on mine as I have another strengthened bottom end in the shed and want more power now. But I dont understand how to do it :( I even have a laptop now and still dont get it all.

Where did you learn to tune it? My car doesnt have an oxy sensor in it either, I have no idea how the wolf controls the air/fuel ratio. :oops:


Thats playing with fire!

AFAIK the wolf does not do closed loop unless its the ver 4 which it can then be enabled provided you are actually using an O2 sensor. Closed loop operation is not critical becaused if the engine is correctly tuned the economy gains would be minimal.

To get the boost up you have to "bleed" some of the signal off in the boost/vac hose going to the wastegate actuator. If you do not know how to tune or the software do not turn the boost up. First learn the what the variables do. You are better doing this at low power levels, low boost and on an engine you can afford to blow up (provided you don't nuke the turbo also).
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Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2005 12:03 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Bert wrote:

Thats playing with fire!

AFAIK the wolf does not do closed loop unless its the ver 4 which it can then be enabled provided you are actually using an O2 sensor. Closed loop operation is not critical becaused if the engine is correctly tuned the economy gains would be minimal.

To get the boost up you have to "bleed" some of the signal off in the boost/vac hose going to the wastegate actuator. If you do not know how to tune or the software do not turn the boost up. First learn the what the variables do. You are better doing this at low power levels, low boost and on an engine you can afford to blow up (provided you don't nuke the turbo also).


Yeah the V.4 does closed loop, which is what I have. I have a replacement stronger engine in the shed awaiting a new cam and valve springs before it goes in.
That said I think I might leave it to the professionals anyway. I know what needs to be done to raise the boost but cant understand how to make the wolf do it. The wolf controls boost levels in my case. I dont have a manual boost controller.
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Posted: Tue Mar 29, 2005 1:25 am 
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For the battery you have to put a little vent hole so its legal dont ya??
so the gasses can escape.

lookin goo but!

 

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Posted: Thu Mar 31, 2005 11:09 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Power: 315 rwkw

Location: Under the flight path of incoming packpackers
NSW, Australia

dont think a battery in the boot is legal anyway :oops:

Dan, the wolfs easy to tune... well sort of. Do you have the controller? And you need an AR guage to see what the mixtures is like.
No one taught me, I just read the manual and sussed it out, its pretty straight forward though in your case if you dont have the AR gauge and controller leave it to the dyno guys... will only take them an hour to correct the mixture to suit the boost.

The auto works ok, it just slips on full boost when it changes by is self at 3500ish. If i hold it to 5000 it changes ok... but i have to do that as i reduce throttle to 1/4 so the tyres dont spin...
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Posted: Thu Mar 31, 2005 11:20 am 
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Ride: AU2 Ute

Location: melbourne
VIC, Australia

Yeah Ive got the hand controller and can get a a/f mete.r To adjust the boost, which figure do you change? Boost cut or otherwise? Is there anyway to make it read in PSI?
As far as I can tell all the figures are like 2** or something.

I take it the plan is to raise boost, then increase fueling to match and go along slowly?

The engine I have now can be a test engine as I have a spare stronger one on hand now.

Ill sit down and go over the manual and software again tonight.

Cheers
Dan
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