G'day all.

One magical day my car decided to have problems starting at the servo. Once it sputtered to life it would idle normally and cruise on light throttle normally. But low and behold, as soon as you put your foot down it would just bog down and die. Think of a greyhound all of the sudden getting a chain wrapped around its neck and pulled back.

What has been looked at and replaced:

Cats, O2 sensor, fuel pump, fuel filter, fuel regulator (replaced with Kirban adjustable), MAF (2nd hand), sparkplugs, leads checked, TPS, vacuum leaks checked, ICS checked, K&N panel filter sold and replaced with stock.

Now whilst all of those fixes provided mild improvements the main problem is still there. When starting the car after it has been left for awhile, it takes what seems like eternity for it to start. After it has been driven and left for 30 minutes, or if you keep priming the fuel pump, it will start first go.

After doing the silly thing and turning the fuel pressure right up (above 45psi) the car was able to rev up to 3800rpm flooring it, but it took forever to get there and would not get past 3800. It was as if 3800 is the redline limit. Frustrating I assure you.

Disconnecting the MAF (both original and 2nd hand from mate) yields a result where you can floor it and it will rev freely up to 4000rpm, but will then cease to go past that point as it is in Open Loop mode and doesn' t know what the hell is going on.

Whilst it appears safer to have the MAF unplugged (runs richer) due to the pinging going uphill with the MAF plugged in (unless I crank Fuel Pressure up), the car will detonate from 1/4 throttle to 1/2 throttle due to what feels like fuel starvation, hesitation and then bang power on until 4000rpm. So basically I get the worst of both worlds with the MAF plugged in or unplugged.

What I am asking is, should I

A) Buy a brand new MAF, or at least the brand new electronics component

B) Stuff replacing it with a 55mm and get a 73mm or higher (i don't care I just want the car running normally again)

C) After buying a working MAF, Buy a decent fuel pressure tester gauge and set the bastard to 38psi-43psi and work from there

D) Buy a pushbike with a whippersnipper engine in it.

This problem has been s**t-ing me to tears for about 4 months. I have heard other peoples pain on here and they have fixed it with fuel filter and MAF replacements. How to test for a working MAF? As I am sick of buying broken ones. But then again, are they really broken? Thats what I need to find out.....Can it be tested with a multimeter?

Any other suggestions as to why the 5.0 is suffocating when floored? Incorrectly seated PCV hose / valve? I had a look and it can be pulled from the manifold easy, is this suppose to be? I also tried screwing the grommet into the manifold, but the hose just blew out anyway...

Maybe I'll just buy a 351 ZG Fairlane, at least it doesn't have a commitee of ridiculous sensors to please the EPA....

Any advice and useless posts (like mine) appreciated.

Cheers!

More questions for ya Billy.

Was the fuel pump new?
Was it the correct fuel pump?
Is the fuel line inside the tank from pump to external line ok?
Do you have blocked or maybe squashed fuel line somewhere?

Pete.

G'day Pete,

Yeah the fuel pump was replaced with a brand new from Ford one. not sure if its a Bosch or not. Was gonna go the Walbro 255l/h, but didn't have the cash. Will get that later.

Haven't checked the fuel lines as yet, but the mechanic flow tested it before and after installing and reckoned it flowed jack all at first and then flowed fine after installing. I might get him to check again, as he is an old fuddy duddy. (he tries though!)

Definitely get someone who knows what they are doing to check fuel pressure AND flow with the correct meter.

I had a similar problem. Cure? I replaced the little part which joins the fuel pump outlet to the line, inside the tank. It has two seals inside and was letting fuel pressure past, directly back into the tank.

Cost: $2.70 from Ford.

Mike

I here what ya sayin billy & feel for ya because I have the same problem!
yours sounds like it is in a worse stage than mine! Why do you think egr ?

this is the only fault mine comes up with & I replaced it & the fault still comes up! NO one can seem to tell me how to do a eletronic test on this!

I`m goin to try what mike said but I don`t hold out much hope! like I say to everyone that has this problem could you please let me know if you solve it & yet I have never had one reply.

Can I ask you a question! are you getting oil in your throttlebody?

(2) Is your pcv valve blocking up?

I look forword to your reply 1 bad ef. now you know what the bad stands for..

1 bad ef, i'm gonna change my name to 1 crap NL!!!

i did have oil leaving onto the passanger side rocker cover but that is only because one of the EGR hoses was slightly falling off due to my not putting it back on properly when I replaced the fuel regulator. But that stopped the oil leak. No oil in the throttlebody however.... PCV, not sure the hose sits loose on the manifold, I am not sure if it is suppose to. I am yet to tighten the plastic grommet onto the manifold and see if that suffocates the engine or makes it run better.

yes tighten the pcv valve in the gromet & make sure the hose is on tight
maybe even clean the pcv valve out in petrol first it does make a difference in the idle & power if is block some what! Good luck your going to need it.......