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adjusting base idle and setting t.p.s. voltage 

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 11:34 am 
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millard455 wrote:
Swine wrote:
Hey millard455 now you court battle has to be part of a sticky so hope you win


all is good now, car is going good with no leaks and i got all my money back, they gave up trying to lie to me once they realised i know more about my car than they do :lol: thanks once again for that info mate.
omg,only 2k on water pump! i just had my k-frame out and swaped,new ones all rebushed and added a skid plate.the old one was almost crushed flat.changed welsh plugs and sump.sump gasket was weeping all around the block.i did the water pump and timing case repair a few months before yours 12k ago,good to hear you got it sorted,but :evil: :evil: :evil: st*t still happens

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 12:10 pm 
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hans hartman wrote:
millard455 wrote:
Swine wrote:
Hey millard455 now you court battle has to be part of a sticky so hope you win


all is good now, car is going good with no leaks and i got all my money back, they gave up trying to lie to me once they realised i know more about my car than they do :lol: thanks once again for that info mate.
omg,only 2k on water pump! i just had my k-frame out and swaped,new ones all rebushed and added a skid plate.the old one was almost crushed flat.changed welsh plugs and sump.sump gasket was weeping all around the block.i did the water pump and timing case repair a few months before yours 12k ago,good to hear you got it sorted,but :evil: :evil: :evil: st*t still happens



man that was the short story, i went through 3 pumps, sump gasket, frontmain seal and a balancer in under 10km, two brand new pumps s**t the brisket seal (faulty batch) and a dikhead mechanic tried to pull the balancer off with out removing the waterpump pulley (bpt underdrives) and pulled the rubber of the balancer and stuffed the bearing in another pump and didnt put the sump gasket or frontmain seal in properly hence the reason i fixed it all myself in the end.

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 11, 2007 6:30 pm 
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hans hartman wrote:
Swine wrote:
Thought i'd add some photo's on setting tps voltage.
can you take some photos of the engine bay as well?


There are photo's in my gallery.

[Edit]
And maybe should change subject to show it's about tps as well. :D
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Posted: Mon Nov 12, 2007 10:35 am 
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I just did mine yesterday after reading this and it made a noticeble difference to my idle, especially with LPG however I can only see automatic 5.0s getting the most out of this.

 

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Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2008 8:07 pm 
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does the 0.98 volts apply to 6 cylinders as well?

my tps showed 0.98 volts with engine off, but when the engine is started and idling, it shows 1.30. This is with the isc disconnected.

Does this sound right?
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Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2008 9:43 pm 
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FordFairmont wrote:
does the 0.98 volts apply to 6 cylinders as well?

my tps showed 0.98 volts with engine off, but when the engine is started and idling, it shows 1.30. This is with the isc disconnected.

Does this sound right?


Yes it applies to six cylinders as well. It should stay at the same voltage whether idling or engine off. VREF is regulated to 5V within the EEC so if you are seeing higher voltage when running you either have grounding issues or you may have a mechanical cause like tension on the throttle cable when the engine is running?
Manual 5.0's will get just as much out of setting the TPS correctly as auto ones in fact all EEC vehicles will benefit from this.
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Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 8:21 am 
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ok thanks. I had an idea after reading this thread, cause my new cam had a really tough idle if i bumped up the throttle at 850 rpm, but then the ecu saw part throttle by the tps and always hung in in revs when decelarating.

So i drilled out the holes on the tps hoping to bring it back, but the guts of it popped out, and its now F**k even though i put it back the same way?

Gonna try again today
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Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2008 4:22 pm 
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ok like i said, i want to be able to bump up the idle to 850rpm, but the drawback is anything over 800rpm and the revs hang at 1300rpm for a few seconds when slowing down to a stop, then will drop to a tough idle again.

So i modified the tps mounts so i could adjust it back to under 1 volt whilst having the idle screw bumped up to 850rpm, but still the revs hang.

Im wondering how the revs hang when i have set the correct voltage at the tps sensor? Why would the ecu do this to anything over 800rpm idle.

I have the isc disconnected and im running the car without it cause its F**k
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 Post subject: Correctly reading TPS voltage
Posted: Sat Mar 01, 2008 7:20 pm 
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Guys, excellent procedure as posted by XR9UTE.
Been usung a similar method myself...works well.

Only one comment.......

You need to connect the multimeters black probe to the ground wire in the TPS plug and not to the engine or body to get a correct TPS voltage reading.
Connecting to engine or body will, invariably, give incorrect readings.
There is usually a 0.1v - 0.3v difference between the TPS ground and the engine or body.

Also, if you have a V8 with two TPS (one for engine and one for transmission) then the relevant ground circuit must be used for each TPS...cannot use the engine signal ground to measure the tramsmission TPS and vice-versa.

WHY IS THIS SO :-
The ground wiring in a vehicle connects through a whole bunch of wiring which eventually connects to the negative terminal of the battery.
The ground wiring needs to be kept as short as possible for current carrying reasons.
So there are several ground circuits in the vehicle.
Problem for electronic systems is that noise develops on many of the ground circuits - there is a voltage difference between them and electrical noise (amazing to see on CRO).
To overcome this, the ECU uses a seperate ground circuit (called signal ground) to which all the sensors, and only the sensors, are connected.
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Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 12:19 am 
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FordFairmont wrote:
ok like i said, i want to be able to bump up the idle to 850rpm, but the drawback is anything over 800rpm and the revs hang at 1300rpm for a few seconds when slowing down to a stop, then will drop to a tough idle again.

So i modified the tps mounts so i could adjust it back to under 1 volt whilst having the idle screw bumped up to 850rpm, but still the revs hang.

Im wondering how the revs hang when i have set the correct voltage at the tps sensor? Why would the ecu do this to anything over 800rpm idle.

I have the isc disconnected and im running the car without it cause its F**k


You need the ISC connected because it controls your target idle rpm. Get a new one and try again.
Thanks muzza and that's certainly a very important point you raise. The trans controller and EEC are separate which is why they require separate TPS's and never shall they meet. Except of course for AU where V8 EECs had an enough drivers to integrate trans control within the EEC.
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Posted: Thu Mar 06, 2008 7:33 am 
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yes muzza's pont about taking earth with a multimeter from the negative wire on the tps was correct, now i know why the tps voltage changed as soon as the car was running when i was measuring from the chassis earth.
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Posted: Sun May 11, 2008 5:15 pm 
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I have the two TPS modules, do i have to do this on both to set it?
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Posted: Tue May 13, 2008 10:55 am 
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bump ! :(

Do I need to hook multimeter up to both of them, or just one and turn them both until reaching right voltage?
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Posted: Tue May 13, 2008 9:20 pm 
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just the top one mate,the other is for gearbox auto kick down im pretty sure

 

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Posted: Thu Jun 26, 2008 2:03 pm 
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I cleaned out my ED's throttle body last night and afterwards it was idling at 1400rpm! Fiddled with the idle screw and I got it to idle close to 2000rpm but couldn't get it lower then 1200 or so. I'm guessing I knocked the TPS and/or the idle screw when I put it all back together. Do either of these have any bearing on the throttle linkage? The accelerator pedal has been feeling quite stiff since I cleaned it all out (throttle body and linkage). I'm not quite sure what I've done here.

 

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