No. What exactly does elongate mean? Enlarge the holes so I can turn it anti-clockwise further?

How would I do this and what tools would I use?

Double Post.

Dremel them out mate, on the underside of the sensors you will see mold marks, i just dremelled mine out to match the marks, worked a treat. Make sure you use some big washers on the new screws too as the sensor mountings will break VERY very easily (my rookie mistake). I will take a photo for you.

This doesn't show it extremely well, i only needed one sensor obviously as i'm manual, this is the auto sensor i also filed out, it's a bit rough, the one i used is much tidier as obviously this one wasn't needed, but you get the idea!

 

 

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I wouldn't take that much meat out...I just use a drill bit the size of the bolt and elongate the holes slightly. You shouldn't need to lengthen the holes that much.

OK thanks for your help. I'll give it a go when i have a spare hour or two.

I gots a question re: Base Idle and ISC problems.

On my 347 I reset the base idle as per the procedure flogged around here. Idles fine at about 950 where I want it to sit with the ISC disconnected. Plug the ISC back in and it will have trouble holding it's idle when the TB snaps shut (IE, foot off pedal from high revs). So I figure the ISC might be buggered. I took it off an noticed that I can physically shift the plunger with my finger up and down inside the housing. Is this normal? It seems to me that the plunger shouldn't be able to move in the housing just by shoving my finger in and giving it a tap. Any large vacuum from the engine through the TB could move the plunger and screw with the idle control.

What do you all think?

Engine idle when coming off the throttle is controlled by the "dash-pot" in the ECU.

Just thought I would add a little tip that frees your hands up, so to speak! Instead of pins, I used safety pins, that way you can place your multimeter probes through the loops and leave your hands free to adjust the tps and adjust the screws.

The wagon has been a real b**ch lately, stalling everytime you stop at traffic lights, over speed humps, reversing out of carparks etc, etc. So today I cleaned the MAF, AIT and increased the idle, then went about adjusting the TPS.
It wasn't out much, was fluctuating between .96 and .97. I found the same as someone else earlier commented on, when you tighten the screws the voltage dropped about .02. Easy fix, I just set it between .99 and 1.0 and once I tightened the screws, it sat smack bang on 0.98.
Tomorrow I plan to tackle the base idle. It still has a bit of hunting going on after the car is started and it is left to idle for a couple of minutes, but I'll get to the bottom of it.

Jaycar sell alligator clips that fit on the end of your multi metre probes.
Cat number is WT-5220 and cost $3.95

Best investment ever !

Nathan

I just insert the meter's probes into the wires connector pin at the back of the connector. The probes are quite thin though allowing me to do it. saves having to break wire insulation.

Guys, the info back on page 1 has proved successful and helped me fix a stutter/hesitation off idle/acceleration problem that any mechanic I've taken my Lane to could NOT work out!

So, off to Jaycar to purchase a multimeter for $9.95... Then, I inserted the pins as described and got a reading of 0.60
I'm like wow! So I backed off the screws and turned the tps clockwise as far as it would go... That managed to get a reading of 0.80... crazy!!! tightened them up and went for a drive and blimey!!
It was so much better but with just a slight flat spot/stutter...

Got back, lifted the bonnet and drilled both sides of the tps slightly and managed to go from 0.80 to 0.90... it's not quite 0.98/99 but it's 150% better, smoother to accelerate and no flat spot/stutter at all...

Absolutely craziness!!! I'm so happy... For a TPS adjustment so small which before was causing the engine to backfire and hesitate, is no longer... just gotta replace the useless round black thing (i have no idea what its called) which runs off the air intake hose..

Getting the voltage to only 0.90 is not so bad either.. maybe the actual sensor does need replacing but until then..........................

Guys exactly how does the stepper motor work?....i have just put on a 65mm TB. and the idle sits at 1000rpm. When i disconect and follow the procedure to set base idle its fine until I plug the stepper motor back in and the revs go straight back to 1000rpm....im thinking its either not suited to the tb or its just rooted.

It's not a stepper motor, it's a solenoid that the EEC PWM's (Pulse Width Modulates). In doing so it varies the position of the valve attached to it.
Was it idling high before you changed the T-body?
What's your TPS volts at idle?

the idle was sitting at a smooth 750. admittedly I havent set the tps yet but i didnt think that had a bearing on the idle speed?

Yep, TPS is critical for the correct idle.