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After some 393c stroker tips 

 

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 Post subject: After some 393c stroker tips
Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 9:45 am 
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Have decided to build a cleveland stroker for my xy sedan as I have a standard bore engine sitting on the floor of a mates shed. I am thinking the 393 over the 408 as I figure it may be more durable over time as everything wont be stressed to the max.

Rotating assemberly I was thinking Scat or Eagle unless anyone can recomend another as there are quite a few to choose from on american ebay.

Now with the block are there any castings that are better or worse than others. Should i get the the block and caps machined into 4 bolt mains or maybe use a girdle. Or are the 2 bolt mains strong enough as they are as I will probably limit it to 6500rpm.

The Heads. I was thinking AFD's or CHI's but I did read somewhere that the 4v's with the added displacement of the stroker will work better at lower revs than they would on a 351 as it would be alot cheaper this way and if the end result is the same the saved money would pay for the auto. Then there is always the Procomp option. I haven't heard to many good reports on thier stuff but if I was to get a pair of 210cc bare heads and have them built, has anyone done this?

Cam choice solid, hydraulic, roller, lift, duration, lobe seperation, What has worked well with the above mention heads for anyone who has built a 393? Hopefully without needing a 3000+ stally. I would like to get around 500hp/500ftlb or a little more lol.

So if anyone has done a similar build can you tell me what worked well what didn't what you would do differently next time.


Thanks Simon
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 Post subject: Re: After some 393c stroker tips
Posted: Wed Oct 06, 2010 12:28 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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OK,
Yes, use Scat or Eagle. they will have a full kit with everything you need. Get the block checked and bored first, then order the kit. Have the machine shop finish hone it after they have the pistons, etc.
No, stay away from Pro Comp crap. You will regret using it. Cheaper to just throw the money away.
The 4v's will be OK, but by the time you have them serviced, hardened seats fitted, etc etc, you could probably have a set of CHI's.
The 2 bolt mains will be fine, just use a good set of bolts or studs. It will hold 500hp fine.
Just remember, it's better to spend a little more and only do it once. 8-)

 

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 Post subject: Re: After some 393c stroker tips
Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2010 9:03 am 
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Thanks for that.

I suspected that about the Procomp Heads,

If anyone is interested Summit Racing in the U.S have some really good pricing and they ship world wide. Scat forged rotating assemberly for 393c around $1700 and Trickflow 190cc heads $2100 and 225cc about $2400

Are there any advantages, disadvantages of grout filling a block?
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 Post subject: Re: After some 393c stroker tips
Posted: Fri Oct 08, 2010 9:07 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Grout filling is really a race-only thing. It makes the block less prone to cracking around the cylinders, etc, but reduces the amount of water you can pump thru the block.
If your trying to make big power - ie more than 600, then you should invest in a dart block. Other wise the stock clevo is fine.
Don't forget the rotating assy will need to be balanced - some shops here sell a balanced kit for a good price, the balance job can cost up to $1k, so allow for it when getting stuff from jegs/summit/etc.

 

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 Post subject: Re: After some 393c stroker tips
Posted: Mon Oct 11, 2010 8:35 am 
Oompa Loompa
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If you are going for 500hp/500Fpnd, i recon one of the Alloy 2V heads will be the best bet. I have AFD 2'Vs ontop of 408 cubes, and it is a nice street combo, maybe a tad grumpier than you are after, but i'm probably closer to 600hp. I also run a partially grouted block and a main stud girdle, and i don't have any heating issues at all, with the water or oil. Someone like Pavtek can supplied a balanced assembly for a good price, and they only charged me $180 or $200 for balancing, but that was over threee years ago.

 

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