Hey guys new 347 stroker start up tomorrow what tune when beding in cam and engine??
Should i return it to stock tune- as i previously had a cam and tune done wasnt happy with results so ive gone thurther, cams are different specs now and being 347 instead of 302 what tune should i use when starting this puppy up?
Leave it with my previous tune or return to stock? will then need to drive short distances for a bit and then take to sydney or somewhere to get a new tune done.

Thanks for any help or suggestions

Hey guys new 347 stroker start up tomorrow what tune when beding in cam and engine??
Should i return it to stock tune- as i previously had a cam and tune done wasnt happy with results so ive gone thurther, cams are different specs now and being 347 instead of 302 what tune should i use when starting this puppy up?
Leave it with my previous tune or return to stock? will then need to drive short distances for a bit and then take to sydney or somewhere to get a new tune done.

Thanks for any help or suggestions

If you have different MAF and injectors than in any of your previous tunes, you'll probably find it won't start anyway. It definately won't run on a stock tune. You'll need to get a new tune to run your new components. Keep timing low and safe, and probably keep the AFRs a little bit fat (12.3 - 12.5:1), just to make sure you have no chance of detonation.

In saying that, Woody, at fordstrokers.com, says he's happy for his customers to start beating on their motors straight away and change oil and check filter after 1000 miles...

If its still stock MAF and injectors then standard tune should be ok, the MAF will measure the air and correct for your changes. If you can you could change the tune from 302 -> 347 cu.

i have a 90mm maf and 42lb injectors but wont fit them untill its going on the dyno. thought standard tune and 24lbs might be ok? or at least my best bet- dont trust a generic tune sent in the mail. going from xcal 1 to xcal 3 so hope they can get a finer tune this time rather than last. so whos the best at tuning Au's in n.s.w?????

He say's that becuz he has clearenced the engine to do so

Unless your car had 24# injectors standard, it won't run. Well, it probably will, but it will be waaaay rich and you'll probably glaze your bores. If it did come with the 24s, then depending on the size of the cam, tb and intake you're running will determine how crap the car will run without a tune.

It's a big risk to be driving on a new engine without getting it straight on a dyno to make sure everything is safe, IMO. At least have a wb o2.

Unless your car had 24# injectors standard, it won't run. Well, it probably will, but it will be waaaay rich and you'll probably glaze your bores. If it did come with the 24s, then depending on the size of the cam, tb and intake you're running will determine how crap the car will run without a tune.

It's a big risk to be driving on a new engine without getting it straight on a dyno to make sure everything is safe, IMO. At least have a wb o2.

standard au xr8 injectors and maf are on it atm , will fit the 42lbs and 90mm when at the dyno i dont have many options im near port macquarie and no good tuners till newy or sydney, so should i trailer it??

It will run perfectly fine with your std MAF & injectors & ecu in closed loop and up to about 3/4 throttle in open loop when your MAF MAY (or may not) start to max-out. The MAF is still correctly measuring airflow, the ecu is still correctly calculating fuel, the load related calcs will be slightly off but this won't matter. Drive it at no more than 3/4 throttle to be safe until you get it chipped/tuned.

The only running in a well built engine should need is for the valve springs to heat-set, unless you are running stainless/chrome rings which for a street/strip engine would be unusual. To get the best life out of new valve springs it is recomended the engine is run up to temp, then turned off & allowed to cool overnight. Quality moly rings will already be run-in once the engine is up to temp if the correct honing stones were used (and in 999/1000 times even if the wrong honing stones were used). The moly ring has all-but eliminated running-in. When was the last time you ran in a new car? 20+ years ago now.

I ran an AU3 XR8 220kW engine with E-series EEC4 (19lb injectors, 55mm MAF, E-series ecu, all to suit 165kW engine) for about 3 months like this and it was just fine. The only problem was not being able to give it 100% throttle. AFR's were just where they should have been.

When I had my stroker built, I had it done to a brand new block. It fired up first time on running-in oil and ran normally with the stock ECU tune, which was fine to get around in for awhile.
Giving it some load like driving up hills is ideal for it and I also didn't really run it much beyond 3000rpm for a while.
Then I had the car properly dyno tuned and she absolutely performed flawlessly and being a 347, it hasn't really burned any additional oil beyond normal either.
On the other hand, as stated above, these days there's no real pressing need to run-in an engine like we did back in the 80's and prior. I guess it's what you, the engine builder, are happy to do or how safe you want to feel about it.

i HATE the engine builders lol has taken ready for it....................... 6 Fing mths!!!
All started when i went in to get a spring changed in the gearbox, next day i was told better come listen to a noise? i thought wtf get there and fire it up major top end noise, like bad lifter rocker noise. turns out the bosses son moved in upstairs had access to the keys i stupidly didnt take a pic of the odometer, he's taken it for a spin to high in the rev range binded a valve spring collapsed a lifter ground out a lobe on the cam and thats where we started. Was then either they replace my engine- or we go halves in a stroker build. i thought f**k it, was ment to take 4 weeks, how the f**k we ended up here i dont know. lots of calls visits, i got heavy on em ( was gonna punch the s**t out of the son, the boss, another mechanic and an apprentice- seriously i reckon i could have taken em. But they called the cops on me instead. So ive been advised since then to let em finish. which will be tomorrow at last, ive payed em 2600 at the start to get the ball rolling. Been again advised i may have to pay the account to legally get my vehicle back- then have to go through M.V.R.I.C? And fair trading to get it back. Im thinkin ill just pick it up, it they want money they can either fight me for it lol or ill take 6mths to pay them back and see how they like it?!
So i can either start it up and drive it home, so i can see it start and work..... or trailer it and if anything dosnt work- they'll more than likely say it wasnt them B.S

lets hope they fixed the gearbox in the first place! Arghhhhh

Mannnnn... that sucks! I think I would've had my day in court already and probably had to sell the car for lawyers.

Sorry, I didn't realise (pay attention) the 24# injectors were the stock ones. I was thinking 19s were stock. What cam are you running? I hope you can start it up and drive it out of there.

As the guys have said...it'll run fine with stock injectors and maf.
What are the specs of this engine? because unless it's quite radical 42's will be too much injector.

So went t see it start up, knocking from sump. need a bigger one. has anyone had this problem?? And what type/size sump do i need? F Me this is sending me bonkers lol