Need help... If i put an AU2 XR8 engine in my EB 5L, will the AU ECU fit into my original harness or will mods be needed to fit it...?

3 problems i see, the ecu in these read out to the dash digitaly, second there smartshield, 3rd variable shift gear box from memory.

i do believe these pose problems.

oh and au s2 v8's are coil pack.

my hypothesis is no. U'd have better luck using the standard ecu already in place... and using the dizzy etc outta ur old motor. im quite sure a dizzy could be refitted and adjustments made to fit old sensors etc.

Check my 5.0 into XG post for info on this. Otherwise it will be far easier to use your entire 5.0 EB EECIV and harness and use it's distributor ignition.

E-series are digital too.

Smart Shield bypass is an option.

Variable shift would still work if you wired it correctly. It is all computer based, it looks at your driving habits and adjusts the gear shifts (how long to hold gears, etc) based on this.

The easiest way would be to do as MontGas has suggested, drop the AU engine in and use as much of your existing wiring as possible. And also remove the coil pack based ignition for the dizzy based one. I'm not sure how many sensors are compatible with your current wiring loom plugs or is any of the outputs are incompatible.

The injectors are different though, but you can patch the AU injector plugs into your loom.

But there are probably people who are much more knowledgeable about this and have done it too, and they should be able to answer all your questions straight off

I was asking cause i was hoping to put the AU ECU in so that it would be able to be flash tuned like the AU's and BA's. Not sure how good if i was to use all my harness and dizzy onto the AU engine weather the J3 chip is good enough to tune it ... How big of a job is it to adapt my EB harness to the AU engine. I wanted that 40kw jump in power with the change of an engine than adding mods on top... Worth doing...??? How many pages back is your post XR9UTE...?

why not just use au heads, intake ect on your engine?

I was thinking this too but my engine has about 220ks on it still runs very good but wanted the newer engine with lower k's and i know lower is not always better depending on how it was driven. I really wanted an AU3 220kw engine but for 5k its not worth it, i can get an AU2 200kw engine for under 1k so i thought put that in with AU3 heads, maybe trickflow manifolds upper/lower with the twin 2/1/2 into 3 inch exhaust and extractors i already have and flash tune it would make some reasonable power and not costing too much either...

It's not in here. Here it is.... 5-0-into-xg-t64924.html

You'll see I basically converted an E-series engine to run with AU EECV.

To run the AU 5.0 engine complete with it's EECV will mean you'll need most all of the engine bay harness and EEC harness which means it's a good idea to use the relay block too. To retain the AU A/C compressor requires some adaptation of lines aswell and of course it works in a much different way that is controlled by the EEC(especially if your engine came from a car with climate control). You'll need to use an EF or EL cluster for the Clean tach output and serial data for the temp gauge.
If you have the time and are confident with wire tracing and harness mods then it is worth it. If you are not however it will not be worth it as you'll likely need professional help which means $$$$ and frankly unless this professional is well experienced and very competent it can turn into a disaster in both money and time.

Using the EB stuff will be much easier and faster.
To use the EB EECIV you need to retain the EB engine harness. Which means either adaptors(from Ford racing) for the AU injectors or modify the harness to take the AU plugs or use EB type EV1 injectors. In fact your stock 19's will get you going nicely. Screw the EB ECT sensor into the heater pipe and the EB temp gauge sender into front of the heater pipe where it goes into the intake manifold.....remove the square headed plug on the AU heater pipe.
EGR is not required or useable with the AU explorer intake.
The AU intake does not have a hole for the ACT sensor. So use the AU inlet tube and sensor and either make a harness adaptor or modify the harness itself.
Use the EB distributor and use the entire front dress from the EB including the water pump(or get a new EB-L one). You may be able to get away with using the AU waterpump but the pulley offset is different and the hub is much larger which won't allow my next suggestion of underdrives.
Get a new EB-L harmonic balancer and do yourself a favour and get a 3 piece underdrive set from BPT while you're at it.
The EB has two Throttle position sensors which either need adaptation to the AU t-body or use the EB t-body to get you going or an aftermarket version of it.
There are plenty of tuning options that allow you to retain the EECIV but it will run very well in stock form. In fact I did one of these a couple of years ago and it's still running with stock EECIV,injectors and maf.
I'll assume you know about 40p header/spark plug clearance issues?

Pete. Does this mean the explorer Manifold is less PlugNPlay than I was hoping? - Not that Ive had time to take a look. Is there no way to use an EB ACT Sensor then? That I wasnt planning on

Nigel

So if i kept my bottom end and put minimal AU3 lower/upper manifolds plus heads, BPT underpulleys and used the J3 chip for tuning would be fine? Im not sure of technical things too much as long as i know what can adapt to what its not hard from there...

Nige,
You can screw the EB sensor into your intake tube if you like but the harness likely won't reach. I don't think it's a great insurmountable problem though.
The latest aftermarket Cobra intakes bore hole in the side of the #5 runner near the mating face of the upper and lower. so you could do that if you want....personally I hate the idea. The intake is no longer made by Ford y'see.

2DMENTD,
You can do that if you want...Personally, I wouldn't disturb a pefectly good AU engine just to put the bits on an old EB engine....it's false economy.

http://forums.corral.net/forums/showthr ... ?t=1201868

Seems to have some good info on drill/tapping the act sensor to #5...

doh - post timings .

I have one of the 220kw manifolds.... so Im not sure how i'll go. I see lots of comments about "true" temp readings, but that also discounts the fact that air is warmed as it hits the manifold. Hmm Dillema.

Nigel

It's not that critical but you can adjust the ACT map in the EEC with whatever you decide to use.
I'd use a Moates quarterhorse. Or offset it via resistor/pot in the wiring.

Theres nothing special about the 220 heads, just the dags grinded off the ports.