Hello everybody!

I'm checking out an AU2 xr8 manual 5speed tomorrow, and I need some advice.
Getting pretty old now 2001, but 170000 kms so hopefully in good condition.

I would prefer an AU3 xr8, but almost impossible to find as a 5speed version under $8000


Do these cars have any major problems that would be present by now, and how would I check?
Compression test worthwhile?

How can you tell if it is 200kw, or 220 kw besides date?

Hi and welcome to fordmods

Do you have any idea who's been driving the vehicle. I bought an AU2 XR8 ute earlier this year knowing that some 'repairs' were needed to get it roadworthy. However, the repairs have ballooned out to $6000 (before I start adding some performance parts). Basically, everything that could wear out was worn out.

- If it's been given a hard time, the gearbox and diff will be making some noises. Check if it jumps out of gear or is hard to get into gear. This could mean the synchros are worn and you need a gearbox rebuild. I spent $1100 getting the LSD rebuilt and $1000 on a T5 gearbox rebuild.

- Being a Ford, check the firewall for cracking where the clutch cable goes through. Also, have a look at the clutch pedal. If it's on an angle, you may have to remove the pedal box for repairs and strengthening. Check if the clutch slips when accelerating

- Look at the coolant. If it is rusty, scale will block up the radiator and may cause the thermostat to malfunction

- A compression test is worthwhile, if you can get all the spark plugs out. The headers stop you using a socket on some of them

- Look at the dash and see if the airbag light stays on. If so, the airbag won't work in an accident, nor will the horn or cruise control operate. The steering wheel has to come off so you can fit another clock spring

- The metal power steering hose can leak at the pump. It's easier to replace the whole hose but they aren't cheap.

Some of these things will have to fixed for a roadworthy, which should be organised by the seller. Otherwise, be prepared to spend some money. Ford will tell you most AU parts are now obsolete.

the 220kw has tickford wings embossed on the front of the throttle body and has a small engine oil cooler mounted just inside the grill area on passenger side..

Do you have a photo comparison of the two?

About how much would it cost to get the 200 engine to au3 spec?

Thanks for the detailed reply, your situation sounds like a nightmare, probably could have bought a bf xr8 for same total cost

the 220kw 70mm throttle body.

the oil cooler

to be honest if your wanting to do some work like heads and cam ect just go with the 200kw engine. stock for stock imo there isn't a huge difference power wise..

the 220 over the 200kw has a 70mm throttle body over the 65mm throttle body on the 200kw,
220kw has a higher fuel pressure regulator
220kw has bigger valves, slight port matching duel valve springs yellaterra 1.7 ratio roller rockers. over the 200kw single valve springs? 1.6 ratio roller rockers.

Nah, I particularly wanted a manual Windsor powered ute. There's more aftermarket parts available and IMO they're easier to work on. I like the low down grunt for driving around the city.

There's a set of AU TE50 aluminium heads, cam, rr & rocker covers on eBay at present. The first time around the bid went to $1000.

Cheers for the pics troyman, turns out it was the 200kw model, although the owner claimed 220.
Drove pretty nice, Ill most probably purchase it, fingers crossed that it passes the mechanical tests, and compression.

@Shortshift; I personally think that the AU is one of the best looking falcons, aka XY, xa-b-c coupes, and some of the current fg models.
As for the low down grunt, it definitely has it ,but Ive driven a mates gtp 290 and that had it too.

That deal for the AU TE50 aluminium heads,cam rr & rocker covers sounds pretty good, you have link?
Would there be any issue fitting 5.6L parts to an 5.0L engine?

The eBay auction finished this afternoon

Well I bought it, will definitely need some work.... nothing to major though.

compressions; cyl 1. 145, cyl 2. 140, cyl 3. 135, cyl 4. 140, cyl 5. 140, cyl 6. 135, cyl 7. 133, cyl 8. 140.

Battery is almost dead though, so with a new one they would be slightly higher.

Checked firewall, that's good, clutch also good.

Bad points;
Steering feels loose, and occasionally makes a single clunk when turning... might need new steering rack

Shudder when reversing, and in first gear ..... might need new lsd

most of the rubber components will need replacing, boots and bushes etc

Noticed a metalic noise in the gearbox when in 4th, going about 45km/hr, but probably just too high a gear for that low a speed.

Was thinking that it would be silly to spend thousands modifying a soon to be 14 yr old engine, when for a few more grand brand new crate engines are available.

Maybe ill go down that road in a year or so when I get bored with this one, and have some extra money saved.

For now service and tune shoud give significant performance increase

Any ideas what is a good strong LSD, wouldn't mind a second hand either

If you have the money, buy a Tru-Trac. The dif rebuilder I went to reckons they're indestructible. Otherwise, the standard LSD will be OK when it's rebuilt.

Would $750 be enough for the truetrac installed?

I'm not sure what the cost is for an AU but there's a Tru-Trac for a BA on eBay for $1100. Then you have to add labour.