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battery or alternator 

 

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 Post subject: battery or alternator
Posted: Thu May 18, 2006 10:45 pm 
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righto, straight up I've got underdrive pulleys fitted so this could be a charging issue, but this problem has only been around for the last month or so and the pulleys have been on nearly 12mths now, the V8 is only being driven 2 maybe 3 times a week, once by me to work 60km round trip, and maybe twice to shops by the missus 5kms, the crank in the morning when I go to work is alright, mainly because I charge the battery on the weekend after it failed, the crank at work to come home is alright, but for the last 2 weekends I've got stuck with a flat battery and had to get a jump, the car starts in the garage and drives to the shops fine, but when I got to start it at the shops it just hasn't got the guts to cranks fast enough then fails, this only happens on the weekends mainly saturday, after I've charged it sunday night and it's been used during the week, is my alternator on the way out? the volt gauge is showing a good charge and it gets driven in 3rd (auto) to shops to ensure the revs are up to compensate for the lower spin of the pulleys. will putting a 110amp alternator help and can I have the regulator adjusted to allow more charge at lower revs.

 

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Posted: Thu May 18, 2006 11:00 pm 
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When you get it started, check that the charging voltage is approx 14.5 volts. If it is below then that may indicate that the alternator is not recharging properly.

 

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Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 1:28 am 
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I run full set of underspeeds on my 5.0L ED Fairmont with Thermos and Climate control so voltage takes a hammering when both lots of fans are working. Current is not the issue - It is voltage drop. So a 110A alternator is not really the answer - apart from the fact would have to rewire existing ED one as mounts are different on EF/EL ones. So I ran an extra wire (6mm I think) from alternator +ve to battery +ve. Make sure you add a fusible link at battery end. It is now a happy little beaver.

Richie

 

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Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 8:58 am 
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Battery cactus, not accepting charge
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Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 11:12 am 
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What underdrives have you got....not all of them are well designed.

Pete.
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Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 3:54 pm 
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I have the ford power set of pulleys, but like I said, they have been on for a good 12mths, and this problem has just started to happen, the battery is max of 2yrs old.

It's charging fine, 14v+ according the the gauge in hte dash, when the revs are above 1600, as soon as it drops to idle (just under 1000) the volts drop off to around 10v, I think this is the problem as the missus basically idles to shops in drive as it's a 50km zone, so it's proably running on the battery all the way, it's a good battery, an NRMA CCA 520, would it be worth going bigger, maybe even deep cycle.

due to fuel prices it only gets driven when absolutely necessary now, so maybe sitting isn't helping.

 

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Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 5:20 pm 
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If the battery is 2 years old it is at the end of its usefull life a battery this old will still be good if the car is driven every day but leave it for on or two days and it WONT START. unless you have a high quality ( and very expensive ) battery today's batteries have a usefull life of 18 months to two years. :roll: :twisted:

 

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Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 5:53 pm 
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Hmm Terroist Ghia has that problem to!

 

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Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 7:10 pm 
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I'll back-up 'GTBob' on this one.. :D

Every two years I get a new battery, usually the cheapest heavy duty standard lead acid I can find.

In fact mines at the 2 year mark now and I've started to notice with the cooler mornings that the cars starting to crank slower than on a fresh battery so before the thing goes and drops its guts I think its time to replace.. AGAIN. :evil: :evil:

 

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Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 8:29 pm 
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bugger, oh well, with winter coming any recommendations of a high CCA battery for decent price.

 

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Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 8:42 pm 
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a normal battery will be ok,a decent battery can sit for a week a should still spark the car into life.

higher cca won't extend the battery life.

 

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Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 8:49 pm 
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naughtyfalcon wrote:
a normal battery will be ok,a decent battery can sit for a week a should still spark the car into life.

higher cca won't extend the battery life.


maybe, but it will spin the donk over quicker, and for some reason my thing has a habit of spinning over longer than most before it fires, and I haven't been able to remedy that quirk since I've owned it (8yrs).

 

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Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 9:05 pm 
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same thing happend with me,, battery cept going flat if i didn't drive it over the weekend
was charging good,,, then 1 month after all that s**t was happening,, the alternator cacked it, never happend since, that was about 1yr ago, i thought they pulleys was stuffing the battery up, it was a new battery, but it wasn't, the alternator was just on its last legs, but wasn't showing up

 

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Posted: Fri May 19, 2006 9:23 pm 
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I had this problem just last week after fitting a new 351 to my XB. It turned out to be my starter motor. I fitted new extractors to my engine but they ran really close to my starter motor and would heat it up. It would kick in the morning , but after driving for a while and then switching off, and then trying to start again, it would wind really slow and not kick. The starter was getting hot and wouldnt work until it had cooled. I solved the prob by fitting a gear reduction starter motor.
Not sure if this is your problem , but its what happened to me.

 

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Posted: Sat May 20, 2006 5:22 pm 
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well, I reckon it was definately the battery, picked up a new one today, and it bloody near chucked the donk out of the bay, looks like the old one has been on the way out for while, I found the receipt and it's actually a month of 3yrs old, so can't complain I suppose.

The new one is a supercharge gold SMF50 CCA600, has a 36mth full replacement warranty and is a maintenance free, so we'll see how it goes.

 

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