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Block girdles? 

 

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 Post subject: Block girdles?
Posted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 10:20 pm 
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Okay I have a question about the block girdles that folks have been fitting in their engine rebuilds. I have constantly read here and many other forums in America that say that the girdle really just holds all the pieces of the stock block together after it has lunched itself and that it is good for nothing else.
Is that true?

If that's the case then why bother other than to re-use parts that haven't been damaged when the block goes bang?

 

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 Post subject: Re: Block girdles?
Posted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 10:25 pm 
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I'll watch this with interest.
Even if all it does is protect your rotating assembly if you do lunch the block, I'd say it's worth the investment.
Leaves a bit more money for that DART iron eagle :lol:

 

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Last edited by Steady ED on Mon Apr 16, 2007 10:55 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 10:42 pm 
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Thats all they are good for, to keep all the seperate parts together. Main girdles work somewhat, but the block girdles, just rubbish.
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Posted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 10:45 pm 
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when you talk about block girdles, you are referring to the ones they flog stateside that go in the valley 347stroker?

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 10:51 pm 
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Yes, thats the ones, just rubbish, because they only stop the block from seperating at right angles to the crank, but in actual fact, the block walks so to say, and the decks actually work in non parallel to eachother, meaning bore 1 is lower than bore 4, bore 5 higher than bore 8, imagine a twisting force upon the block. Lige how you would turn a rubix cube. There is no diagonal support in the block girdles at all.
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Posted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 10:54 pm 
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So there is a structural benefit with an installed girdle in that it stops the block flexing under load. Does it extend block life if the power output you have is not high enough to split the block anyway?

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 16, 2007 11:03 pm 
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Vic wrote:
So there is a structural benefit with an installed girdle in that it stops the block flexing under load. Does it extend block life if the power output you have is not high enough to split the block anyway?


I have never heard of a block girdle that works, although main girdles seem to, and I have one fitted to my engine. I could not see how it would prolong block life when it does nothing to stop the block basically diagonally flexing.
Just keep your rpm to a sensible (7200) rpm in a stroker, maybe a little higher, and all should be ok.
I know the T Series guys were splitting blocks in the production series, but they were late model factory blocks copping the bejeezus, I guess you have to expect some componants to fail in those conditions.

As I have mentioned in other posts, I am running an early 69 block, and dont forsee any dramas with getting 500 odd hp, and 7200 rpm all day.
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Posted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 3:46 pm 
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steadyeD, have you ever seen a block break with girdle in place? and then re-use the rotating assembly in another! WTF :roll:

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 4:07 pm 
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chrisredden wrote:
steadyeD, have you ever seen a block break with girdle in place? and then re-use the rotating assembly in another! WTF :roll:

Nope, and I never said it would either mate, I have absolutely no idea, hence why I was watching with interest.

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 7:29 pm 
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347stroker wrote:
Vic wrote:
So there is a structural benefit with an installed girdle in that it stops the block flexing under load. Does it extend block life if the power output you have is not high enough to split the block anyway?


I have never heard of a block girdle that works, although main girdles seem to, and I have one fitted to my engine. I could not see how it would prolong block life when it does nothing to stop the block basically diagonally flexing.
Just keep your rpm to a sensible (7200) rpm in a stroker, maybe a little higher, and all should be ok.
I know the T Series guys were splitting blocks in the production series, but they were late model factory blocks copping the bejeezus, I guess you have to expect some componants to fail in those conditions.

As I have mentioned in other posts, I am running an early 69 block, and dont forsee any dramas with getting 500 odd hp, and 7200 rpm all day.



Quite a few engine manufactures are using block/main cap girdles now, so as to have a lighter engine block, but stiffer to cope with it beign so light. A full alloy engine ( long motor) 4 cyl 2.4lt Toyota 2AZ engine weighs only 93 kg ( with pallet). The sump is also used to stiffen the block.

 

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 8:02 pm 
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cjh wrote:
347stroker wrote:
Vic wrote:
So there is a structural benefit with an installed girdle in that it stops the block flexing under load. Does it extend block life if the power output you have is not high enough to split the block anyway?


I have never heard of a block girdle that works, although main girdles seem to, and I have one fitted to my engine. I could not see how it would prolong block life when it does nothing to stop the block basically diagonally flexing.
Just keep your rpm to a sensible (7200) rpm in a stroker, maybe a little higher, and all should be ok.
I know the T Series guys were splitting blocks in the production series, but they were late model factory blocks copping the bejeezus, I guess you have to expect some componants to fail in those conditions.

As I have mentioned in other posts, I am running an early 69 block, and dont forsee any dramas with getting 500 odd hp, and 7200 rpm all day.



Quite a few engine manufactures are using block/main cap girdles now, so as to have a lighter engine block, but stiffer to cope with it beign so light. A full alloy engine ( long motor) 4 cyl 2.4lt Toyota 2AZ engine weighs only 93 kg ( with pallet). The sump is also used to stiffen the block.


Yes, I see what you are saying, but we are not comparing apples with apples. A factory designed, incorporated from day 1, like the alloy big and small block motorsport blocks have are slightly different.
These most definatley work.....
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Posted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 8:50 pm 
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I started on making one for a 351C, but never finished it. I was making it from Bisalloy (spelling).

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 10:21 pm 
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On a Clevo if you wanted support then convert to 4 bolt mains.. The webbing is big enough ....Unlike roller Windsors

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 10:45 pm 
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my 393 clevo is stronge enough not to have a gerdle although i have one on my top end to lock all my rollers into place so i dont have to keep adjusting them , money well spent if you ask me now i only have to check them every 2-3thousand k's

 

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 17, 2007 11:29 pm 
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EBXR8380 wrote:
On a Clevo if you wanted support then convert to 4 bolt mains.. The webbing is big enough ....Unlike roller Windsors


When you look at the webs in a Clevo, you can see they had intended them to be 4 bolt mains, but a girdle can only help. Same as having an external girdle on an auto tranny, like a C4.

 

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