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Clevo ID 

 

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 Post subject: Clevo ID
Posted: Tue Dec 20, 2005 12:57 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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Hi
Do we have any historians that can tell me what year/car my clevo block came from?
Lower casting has D2AE CA and the upper one has 2M21 (I think...casting is pretty rough).

It has a 302 crank and came with all the usual 302 parts....

If there is a site with this info on it, can someone post the addy please...

Cheers
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Posted: Fri Dec 23, 2005 4:38 am 
Getting Side Ways
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its the engine number that will tell you more
check out this site


http://www.fomoco.com.au/ID.html .
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Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2005 11:10 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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Found it.
2M21: 2 = 1972, M = December (A to M; Jan to Dec. i is not used), 21 = 21st day. This is the manufacture date, stamped on to the block.

Still trying to find the D2AE CA. The 2 means it was cast in 1972, dont know what the other figures mean. This code is cast with the block.

**Incidently, in the U.S, this same code was used on late 1971 351 4v blocks and all the Boss, HO and CJ blocks. From '72 to end of production in '74 all 4v blocks had it as well. The Boss, HO and CJ blocks also had D1ZZ 6010 D stamped on them.

Another interesting tidbit is the Aussie 302/351C has a higher nodular content block than the U.S 351C which makes it a stronger block...cool...

Last but not least; all U.S. 351 blocks except Boss and HO had a rope rear main seal. The Boss and HO had the same split rubber seal that the Aussie clevos do.....

Hmmmm...sounds to me like they just do it better Down Under......
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Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2005 11:21 pm 
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D2AE is the engineering code.... basically means a 1972 revision, and i *think* AE refer to the department line (in this case engine)

 

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Posted: Wed Dec 28, 2005 11:24 pm 
Oompa Loompa
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Interceptor wrote:
D2AE is the engineering code.... basically means a 1972 revision, and i *think* AE refer to the department line (in this case engine)


ok...cool. Cheers
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Posted: Thu Dec 29, 2005 9:26 pm 
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as far as i knew all aussie blocks come out with rope seals , ive pulled about 5 engines apart and all had rope seal with pin that holds it , all these had std bores and the 3 others that ive stripped had split seals and they all were oversize bores
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Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 12:55 am 
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pinkbits8u wrote:
as far as i knew all aussie blocks come out with rope seals , ive pulled about 5 engines apart and all had rope seal with pin that holds it , all these had std bores and the 3 others that ive stripped had split seals and they all were oversize bores

The best way to be sure if it is an AUssie block is to check the casting No, instead of the D2AE, D4AE, etc, it will have XE192540 it will be a "thicker" casting around the pan where the yanks made it thinwall,aprox 7-10LBs heavier, and can be generally bored out to over .060'' quite safely.
BUT....... there weren't too many made and they are quite expensive/difficult to find, they also were apparently all 4 bolt mains as well, generally known as the NASCAR block.
My block has seen almost 600hp without any dramas

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 1:32 am 
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if you've gotta bore a cleveland out by 60 thoujust to get hose extra couple of cubes...... man...... you must be getting very f**k desperate...... or you havent tried every other option......

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 2:13 am 
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Interceptor wrote:
if you've gotta bore a cleveland out by 60 thoujust to get hose extra couple of cubes...... man...... you must be getting very f**k desperate...... or you havent tried every other option......

Mine's only bored out .080''! ,but has been siamese moly sleeved & furnace brazed & grouted to the welsh plugs, which are the screw in type for block rigidness, add a 4'' stroke & you have a good revving clevo, but to take out a block just to achive more cubes is not very clever!, especially a normal thinwall clevo (max oversize street.030'' race .020'').
the reason I stated .060'' was for a reference, not a recomendation.
cheers kenny

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 30, 2005 3:06 pm 
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pinkbits8u wrote:
as far as i knew all aussie blocks come out with rope seals , ive pulled about 5 engines apart and all had rope seal with pin that holds it , all these had std bores and the 3 others that ive stripped had split seals and they all were oversize bores


Ok, my bad...!! my reference source is not entirely accurate then......hmmm
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