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| Retsilla |
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Hi there people.
I have an EB falcon with a factory v8 option. I am planing some upgrades for it but I have heard that the factory ECU can not handle the upgrades. I would like to give it a new inlet manifold, head porting, decent exhaust system, upgraded fuel injectors and fuel rails. Will the ECU handle the upgrades? Do I need to install an aftermarket ECU or can I install a chip? Any advise would be appreciated. |
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| xafalcon |
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Factory ecu will cope with everything listed except the upgraded injectors. A piggy back chip will sort out the injectors
_________________ XA Faimont 351C, AU2 XR8 Manual 5.0, DA LTD 5.0, Mk1 Capri 5.0, 1995 Mustang 5.0, EF2 XR8 Manual, EF2 Fairmont Ghia 5.0, AU3 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Manual Ute, TE Cortina 5.0 Manual, DU LTD 5.0 soon to be manual |
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| EBXR8380 |
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Many ways around calibration..
For MAF http://www.promracing.com/the-facts-abo ... ers-page-9 The next step or as well is this.. http://www.moates.net/quarterhorse-for- ... l?cPath=63 Not all that expensive.. Some say the early EEC's are easier to tune ??
_________________ As in ZOOM 126 edition |
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| 66 coupe |
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there is another alternative, and it does away with the maf, and thats an MS2 based ecu,
realtime tuning and will work with future mods |
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| xafalcon |
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For the mods he's thinking of, he doesn't really even need an injector upgrade, let alone an ecu swap
The transfer function for the aussie MAF is quite different to A9L, so it's not just a matter of putting in an american Mustang MAF calibrated for bigger injectors. As far as I know, Pro-M don't have aussie ecu re-calibrated MAF's??? Check this before purchase. The QH is definately good, but the proposed mods don't really require something so elaberate. Add on the cost of BE and probably EA and a software license for his box code and the cost doubles. At the most it's a chip with injector scalar changes. Personally I'd just stay with the stock injectors, they still have some headroom before they reach 100% duty cycle. As for a MAF-less ecu. I can't see how it could be considered better to calculate air charge based on several indirect measurements (MAP, ECT, ACT, TP, RPM) v's one single direct measurement (kg/hr). Not to mention the huge amount of time and money needed to develop good VE, spark & fuel tables for what is essentially a stock engine.
_________________ XA Faimont 351C, AU2 XR8 Manual 5.0, DA LTD 5.0, Mk1 Capri 5.0, 1995 Mustang 5.0, EF2 XR8 Manual, EF2 Fairmont Ghia 5.0, AU3 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Manual Ute, TE Cortina 5.0 Manual, DU LTD 5.0 soon to be manual |
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| Retsilla |
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Hi people.
I should have mentioned that I want to add a fairly good cam. The car will be used as an entry level burnout car. I have been told that the ECU won't handle a decent cam upgrade. I am building a stroked Cleveland to go into an XC ute but it will be a while down track before it will be ready so i want to drive this one for a while. I am not looking for amazing power from the EB, just something fun. This is the first EFI car i have ever even thought about modifying and am in a bit over my head! Any thoughts? |
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| xafalcon |
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Change the diff to 4.11's or higher
The stock heads are a problem and it takes many hours grinding to (partially) fix them. I will spend 40-50 hours on a set, then add in bigger valves, springs etc. Without doing this work, the cam is limited to something quite small as the intakes only flow around 160cfm max. Select a cam on 114 LSA with around 220 @ 050 and the ecu will cope just fine. Similar ecus are running 800HP cars in USA, so the ecu's are very capable. Since it's a burnout car I'd just fit 24lb injectors and run with a standard ecu. The extra open loop fuel will help keep the engine cool.
_________________ XA Faimont 351C, AU2 XR8 Manual 5.0, DA LTD 5.0, Mk1 Capri 5.0, 1995 Mustang 5.0, EF2 XR8 Manual, EF2 Fairmont Ghia 5.0, AU3 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Manual Ute, TE Cortina 5.0 Manual, DU LTD 5.0 soon to be manual |
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| Vic |
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My two cents;
- ditch the stock heads as they're not much good except as boat anchors and get some cheap a*** GT40P's - forget changing the injectors and the stock ECU, just slip in a nice TFS1 cam which is just short of where the stock ECU will start to struggle to adapt - change the intake manifold to any of the GT40 intakes and add on a 65mm throttle body - larger cold air intake - a decent / basic full exhaust from 4-1 headers all the way to the tip. - change the diff gears as mentioned ( especially if you have poxy 3.27 ) With that cam selection and the items above, you'll have a great burnout car and you'll pull all the hot chicks. Swear to god mate.
_________________ 5.6L of carbon footprint. |
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| XR9UTE |
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Unfortunately it's a case of people mocking what they don't understand as far as the Ford EEC goes.
It can handle big cams and big power. |
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| Willy |
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Hi All,
Just to expand upon the discussion already: If the MAF and the injectors were both upgraded (from 19 lb to 24 lb calibration, lets say), would the ECU need to be tuned, or would it still handle the discussed mods + cam of 114 LSA with around 220 @ 050?? Itching for an answer to this one.
_________________ 1994 Black Pearl ED Fairmont V8 |
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| XR9UTE |
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I've run a much bigger cam and 30's with an aftermarket MAF and a stock EEC with no problems.
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| Willy |
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Thanks!!!!
_________________ 1994 Black Pearl ED Fairmont V8 |
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| Scaffy |
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Spending 40-50 hours on a set of E7 heads? Sheesh!
By choosing the right components, you'll be able to make them work on the stock ecu. The stock ECU is capable of making bulk power with all kinds of engine mods, but at the end of the day, if you want to get the most out of it, you need to tune it. I've got to question the idea of running 24 lb injectors on the standard set up. I've found in stock form, these cars run richer than ideal with the 19s. Throw 24s in there and you'll be killing power in a big way, struggling to spin the wheels. Upgrading your ECU is a waste of time and money for what you need. You need to do a heap of research as to what kind of combo is going to suit you best and who you can find to tune it for you. If you're going to be mainly doing burnouts, make sure once tuned for optimum power, they pull a couple of degrees timing and have afrs at around 12.4:1. Another option, if it's only for burnouts and no longer going to be registered, chuck a carb on it. Edit - just noticed this is a revived thread! D'oh
_________________ Trickflow Street Heat top end kit, 70mm BBK TB & EGR, 24lb injectors, Underdrives & 3.73s: 275rwhp - 13.15@105mph NA / 12.37@116mph N20 |
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