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engine identification/should i get this? NEED ADVICE 

 

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 Post subject: engine identification/should i get this? NEED ADVICE
Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 10:35 am 
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hey, was wondering if anyone could tell me what block this is: C9OE-8015C

tried finding it on the net, found that C9OE was a 69 351W apparently, dont know about the second half though

cheers

 

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Last edited by skidder on Mon Apr 21, 2008 9:27 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 11:03 am 
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http://www.cehighperformance.com/ford_b ... s.htm#351W
hope this helps

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 11:41 am 
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cheers for the link, i only had reference to a forum before telling me it was a 69 351w. Does anyone know what the 8015 C at the end stands for? Cheers

edit: I'm considering going and checking this out as i have been looking for a 351w block for ages. Apparently it has standard bores which are in pretty good condition, is my best bet to check bores to get vernier calipers/micrometer and check the inside diameter?

what else should i look for? I have someone who is really clued up but i dont wanna make them check it if there's obvious stufff wrong with it/until I'm set on buying it. Finally what would you consider a good price for a bare 351W block would be, assuming its got standard bores, minimal surface rust and no structural problems?

 

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EVL098 wrote:
Cramping in the hand from having it on your Wang for an excessive period of time is a definate con.
Seriously do people google "f**k up modifications for Fords owned by Jews" and get linked straight to this site nowadays?

AU,factory fitted tickford kit/IRS, t5,Sports ryder/KYB: gone.

Last edited by skidder on Mon Apr 21, 2008 9:26 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 12:18 pm 
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and another question, are there any issues with earlier blocks regarding running roller rockers etc? any reason i should steer away from older ones?

there is also a picture of the block in my gallery.

Thanks

 

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EVL098 wrote:
Cramping in the hand from having it on your Wang for an excessive period of time is a definate con.
Seriously do people google "f**k up modifications for Fords owned by Jews" and get linked straight to this site nowadays?

AU,factory fitted tickford kit/IRS, t5,Sports ryder/KYB: gone.

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Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 12:38 pm 
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I don't think that is a 351 block.

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 12:38 pm 
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skidder wrote:
cheers for the link, i only had reference to a forum before telling me it was a 69 351w. Does anyone know what the 8015 C at the end stands for? Cheers

edit: I'm considering going and checking this out as i have been looking for a 351w block for ages. Apparently it has standard bores which are in pretty good condition, is my best bet to check bores to get vernier calipers and check the inside diameter?

what else should i look for? I have someone who is really clued up but i dont wanna make them check it if there's obvious stufff wrong with it/until I'm set on buying it. Finally what would you consider a good price for a bare 351W block would be, assuming its got standard bores, minimal surface rust and no structural problems?

just the remainder of the part number like short/long motor

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 21, 2008 5:52 pm 
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351EL wrote:
I don't think that is a 351 block.


yeah its weird, looking at it i thought it was a 302, but i've seen a few sources saying its a 351w....one place i saw though said that a c9oe but with different last 4 digits was a 302 though...anyone else got any insight?

 

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EVL098 wrote:
Cramping in the hand from having it on your Wang for an excessive period of time is a definate con.
Seriously do people google "f**k up modifications for Fords owned by Jews" and get linked straight to this site nowadays?

AU,factory fitted tickford kit/IRS, t5,Sports ryder/KYB: gone.

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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 10:01 am 
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just found out c90e-8015-c is a 302, c90e-6015-c is a 351...spewin

wondering should i still get this or just find a new 302/another 351? Its going in a datsun 260z so maybe a bit less weight would be beneficial.

Apart from the '68 mexican blocks are there any advantages with older blocks? I have read they're stronger (pre '81) but apart from the mexican ones haven't seen any evidence...

 

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EVL098 wrote:
Cramping in the hand from having it on your Wang for an excessive period of time is a definate con.
Seriously do people google "f**k up modifications for Fords owned by Jews" and get linked straight to this site nowadays?

AU,factory fitted tickford kit/IRS, t5,Sports ryder/KYB: gone.

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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 11:10 am 
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Older blocks are stronger due to thicker mains webbing...You need to fit aftermarket roller followers as they are longer and the early blocks have shorter lifter bores... There are small base circle cams available but not really a good performance option.. Contact Crane, Crow, Wade etc
There is at least 100 h.p difference in strength between roller and earlier blocks...

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 22, 2008 12:20 pm 
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okay so the only downside to an older block is needing aftermarket roller followers?

edit: haha and to note, i just found a 302w with part number c90e-6015-c (which is supposably a 351w)....they couldn't make part numbers simple could they. :roll:

 

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EVL098 wrote:
Cramping in the hand from having it on your Wang for an excessive period of time is a definate con.
Seriously do people google "f**k up modifications for Fords owned by Jews" and get linked straight to this site nowadays?

AU,factory fitted tickford kit/IRS, t5,Sports ryder/KYB: gone.

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Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 1:13 am 
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skidder wrote:
okay so the only downside to an older block is needing aftermarket roller followers?

edit: haha and to note, i just found a 302w with part number c90e-6015-c (which is supposably a 351w)....they couldn't make part numbers simple could they. :roll:



No you can use a reduced base roller cam from comp that allows you to use factory 5.0 lifters. They are perfectly ok for performance...I ran a .612" lift comp hyd roller in my cleveland and it went hard and a smaller version in my 351w that also went very well. Cam/dizzy gears were a problem but that was because of misinformation by comp. Just make sure you get a -9 part numbered cam and run a factory steel gear and you'll be fine.
Got a photo of this "351"? I'll be able to tell you in a shot what it is.
If not look for 1/2" head bolt holes and 9.480" deck height. Actually check my 351w into XE post above..theres plently of photos of the engine. Note how the distance from the top of the water jackets at the timing cover face to the decks is at least an inch long?... a 302 deck is practically flush with the top bolt in this area.

try this link too..
http://www.classicmustang.com/decoding_part_numbers.htm
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Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 9:58 am 
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XR9UTE wrote:
skidder wrote:
okay so the only downside to an older block is needing aftermarket roller followers?

edit: haha and to note, i just found a 302w with part number c90e-6015-c (which is supposably a 351w)....they couldn't make part numbers simple could they. :roll:



No you can use a reduced base roller cam from comp that allows you to use factory 5.0 lifters. They are perfectly ok for performance...I ran a .612" lift comp hyd roller in my cleveland and it went hard and a smaller version in my 351w that also went very well. Cam/dizzy gears were a problem but that was because of misinformation by comp. Just make sure you get a -9 part numbered cam and run a factory steel gear and you'll be fine.
Got a photo of this "351"? I'll be able to tell you in a shot what it is.
If not look for 1/2" head bolt holes and 9.480" deck height. Actually check my 351w into XE post above..theres plently of photos of the engine. Note how the distance from the top of the water jackets at the timing cover face to the decks is at least an inch long?... a 302 deck is practically flush with the top bolt in this area.

try this link too..
http://www.classicmustang.com/decoding_part_numbers.htm

The photo I saw was in his gallery.

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 29, 2008 11:52 pm 
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[/quote]
The photo I saw was in his gallery.[/quote]

Oh yeah sorry. That's a 302 alright.
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