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first start up after a major high performance rebuild 

 

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Posted: Mon Jun 05, 2006 1:38 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 46

Posts: 8590

Joined: 5th Nov 2004

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Ride: AU Fairlane 5.0, KE Laser, 01 Kw

Location: Melbourne
VIC, Australia

409Stroker wrote:
i will be putting a brace from center piler to center piller with a loop for the tail shaft and shocky towers to fire wall What do you mean by half shassis advice would be appreciated

I'm no expert in the chassis dept mate but i have had a cpl of mates in the past who were.
Maybe do a search on Google, if you were in Melb i'd be able to point you in the right direction.
Years ago here people went to John Taverna Chassis or Street & Strip Engineering, i've been away from it for a long time so not sure on who's about now.
At least you are bracing a few parts though, i'd also recommend some kind of ladder bar setup in the rear to help stabilise it seeing as you are running the stock leaf setup?
Also i'd recommend a scatter shield for the trans.
Look up www.vpw.com.au as they have a big range on performance gear, if they're still around.
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Posted: Mon Jun 05, 2006 2:13 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: V8 T5 Fairmont & BA XR6T

Location: Sydney
NSW, Australia

EBXR8380 wrote:
The cam has to be run in properly, some run till warm at 1500 to 2000 rpm on SINGLE valve springs . Then changeto double or whatever you have,,,Thats if you ae using flat tappet cam...
Rings / cam bed in the first few miles, don'tlet it idle too long while cam is beeding in.... Follow cam makers instructions...


na she is a solid roller I think he said, however a golden piece of advice, dont idle her for too long a periods of time till she is run in.

Just out of interest, what final cut did you hone the bores at?

 

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Posted: Mon Jun 05, 2006 8:42 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 38

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Ride: 66 Coupe

Location: Perth
WA, Australia

Should be a nice motor.. my brothers building a 393, for his XB coupe, similar except hes using AFD 4v heads. Should pull similar figures too. Being a solid roller cam its a bit easier on 1st start up as theres less chance of wiping a lobe, but make sure you use a lot of molykote in the right areas.

Have you had the whole rotating mass balanced?

Also ditch that Ryco oil filter and use a purolator or k&n filter (however last k&n I brought was bad, so im steering away from them too..)
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Posted: Mon Jun 05, 2006 1:30 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 43

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Joined: 4th Jun 2006

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Ride: xy fairmont

Location: Perth
WA, Australia

the block was 32 years old and still had never been touched so we took it out 40 thou, acid bath ,crack tested, line bored and got it re decked

 

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If you have it under control then you dont have enough power..
There is no replacement for Displacment..

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Posted: Mon Jun 05, 2006 1:35 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 43

Posts: 469

Joined: 4th Jun 2006

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Ride: xy fairmont

Location: Perth
WA, Australia

yes all the internels have been balenced and the ryco is only on there for the first start up then we will drop the oil and do a change and then another one at about 500 ks .... nice 2door by the way but any advice would be appreciated

 

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If you have it under control then you dont have enough power..
There is no replacement for Displacment..

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Posted: Tue Jun 06, 2006 2:45 pm 
Stock as a Rock
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Location: Seaford
VIC, Australia

Being a solid roller cam you won't have any issues with cam run in.

Your only concern is oil and thats easy. Make sure the oil filter is full before you fit it. This way you'll get instant oil pressure.

Make sure it's loaded up once you drive it and don't let it idle too long till those rings have been bedded in.

It should go very well and have very little traction :) You have the same heads as me but I'm only @ 393ci with a solid flat tappet.

 

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