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Installing Gear Drive, Cleveland 

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2004 8:34 pm 
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I threw the Mildon gear drive out of my big block when I found metal shavings coming off the gears when I went to retard my cam a little. They also induce valetrain harmonics which lead to early valvetrain failure. I am an avid fan of Rollmaster timing sets now...
Shane

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2004 8:42 pm 
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MrLandau wrote:
I threw the Mildon gear drive out of my big block when I found metal shavings coming off the gears when I went to retard my cam a little. They also induce valetrain harmonics which lead to early valvetrain failure. I am an avid fan of Rollmaster timing sets now...
Shane

the last geardrive I was "involved" with actually retarded the cam itself 2 deg at the cam (4 crank deg) after only 10'000 km's or even less, But it was a popular $270 cheapy from sydney ,since then I wont have anything to do with them.

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2004 8:45 pm 
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im doing a cam change in the next week or so , so ill checj\k the gear drive wear then , and see if its floating into the timing cover
ill let you all know , i think its just a jp
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Posted: Sun Nov 14, 2004 9:16 pm 
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cool just check the pins that the idler gears run on, Where they line up with on the timing cover cause thats where mine kept drilling.

Me personally I would just get a double row timing chain like a rollmaster series.

If you want the noise either buy a blower or a set of gilmers.

Anyway let us know how you go.

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 15, 2004 12:25 pm 
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pinkbits8u wrote:
they just go straight on

you cant run the normal mechanical fuel pump on a clevo with the gear drive , so youll need a blocking plate ( easily made ) and electric fuel pump/s , regulator etc


Yes you can, you can run a mech fuel pump with a gear drive, mine runs just fine (for now at least).

Ps, Didnt end up buying the Holly elec Fuel pump, decided not to, but i got lots of valuble info on it - thanx.

 

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Posted: Tue Nov 16, 2004 5:09 pm 
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on my gear drive i couldnt bolt on the eccentric ring for the pump to run on , i dont mind , im happy with the electric twin fuel pump / filter set up ive got
the cam i want means ill have to get another set of v/v springs , it,l coist about $900 for a cam change -
so ill have to consider it a bit more i think as ive just put deposit on house and 3 kids / holidays cumin up
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Posted: Mon Dec 06, 2004 9:22 pm 
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i hope it wasnt a jp gear set , mine failed
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Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2004 1:04 am 
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did your gear drive crap itself?
im really confused now about this geardrive situation. i think i might put it in for a while and see how it goes, and then check it again after x amount of k's then if i see early problems ill chuck a chain in it.
thanks for all the replies, as i keen to hear both sides of the story.
also with my gear drive, i got these "bush" things that have off set hole drilled in them. and they slot into the top gear, i think i thas something to do with the camshaft?

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2004 1:10 am 
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also the brand of my gear drive is a "procomp geardrive"

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 07, 2004 10:09 pm 
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checking after a few thousand ks is the go i think as some walk and cut into the timing case.
i had to grind some of the idle shafts to sit squarely
the bushes are to dial in the camshaft -which is cheep power and keeps everything running smooth, to do this youl need a degree wheel ( and a dial indicator (preferably)
a engine builder can do this for you at little cost
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Posted: Thu Dec 09, 2004 1:30 am 
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yeah im thinking of taking my engine to a shop and giving them all the bits and go, "can you put this together for me?" and see what they say, then i know it would be done properly, but i really want to build this engine myself so i can say, yeah i built it, all of it, and this is how well it goes.

 

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Posted: Thu Dec 09, 2004 12:17 pm 
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XeTurbo wrote:
but i really want to build this engine myself so i can say, yeah i built it, all of it, and this is how well it goes.


i say go for it Mate, i did it & and couldent fell better about it, i set out to make a nice simple Hway cruiser - that will last me for years - and thats what i ended up with, and if somthing major goes wrong with your engine - you will have a better understanding of whats gone wrong and how to fix it your self, good luck.

oh and Pinkbits, sorry to here about your Gear Drive, i always thought they were better than timing chain.

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 10, 2004 3:55 pm 
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itll cost too much at a shop , but they will do it right

i do them myself- a bit scary when starting as theres no warranty, but yuoll feel better that youve done it yourself

i build from a book - rebuilding 351 / 400 / 429 /460 fords or something

i got a cloydes premium chromium double roller chain set for $170, im hoping that wilkl do the trick
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Posted: Sat Dec 11, 2004 12:40 am 
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yeah ive got Tom Monroes how to build ford v8s 351c-351m,400,429,460, and i think its the best book ever written. it just makes things so much easier to understand. im going to build it myself as i think the personal pride is worth it alone. i might get professional help when it comes to installing the camshaft tho. at the end of the day i dont think its too hard really, and if im patient and careful it should turn out well. well thats the idea anyways!
I hear pink bits will be at the summernats this year? if so ill have to catchg up and have a chat to you!

 

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Posted: Sat Dec 11, 2004 2:03 pm 
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ill be there , give me a hoy and well cruise, it should be better this year with the 3500 stally

cams easy to put in , get a builder to put cam bearings in though- he'll have the proper dollies for it

i do everything but

the heads , cam bearings , putin pistons on rods,machining /balancing/blue printing

i changed cam last night and had a bugger of a time puting timing cover back on - the front sump seal was givin me the s**t, thank god for gasket goo stuff
ill start on the paint repairs after lunch, another late night
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