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 Post subject: MAF
Posted: Sun Jun 29, 2008 11:21 pm 
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Hi guys,
In what seems to be a never ending saga with regards to fuel economy, what's critical with the MAF internals? the wires, yellow "eyes" or both?

I've recently changed;

O2 Sensors, (approx 2 years old, so were due)

Fuel Filter, (as above)

Thermostat and Coolant Flush ( as above)

Oil pressure sender, (gauge always on read zone, new sender, problem fixed, sitting about 3/4 most of the time, never goes in red zone anymore.)

Didn't do plugs or leads as it's running very well, smooth, stable idle, they're about 3 years old, NGK Iridiums & Eagle 9mm's.


I've recently acquired a new ELGT MAF, am tempted to throw just the sensor on the stock MAF and see what happens, but no point I guess as it's not expected to run well without the 24lb injectors, GT EEC, bigger T/B etc.

There is a new MAF on ebay, exact same part number as what I have, F07F-12B579-A2C, but at $275, can be a risky buy as I have the ELGT unit here, however Im not sure when I will do my engine upgrade?
At 16-18ltrs/100km average, Something is no doubt failing somewhere.

There is a used EFXR8 MAF on ebay also, part number is a little different, but not sure if it's worth trying that? I'm told it's in perfect order and alot cheaper?

Plenty to think about I suppose.

 

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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 12:04 am 
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have you tried cleaning the hotwires on the maf.

when i first got my xr the wires looked like they had never been cleaned since the car left the factory.

carefully take the electrics out of the housing an spray the hot wires with decent carby cleaner (i find nulon carby and throttle cleaner to be the best) this takes all of the s**t off.

put it all back together and fire it up, also worth mentioning that it would be feasible to disconnect the battery whilst your doing this so that it gives time for the ecu to reset itself

like i said i done this to mine and it really did make a world of difference

 

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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 12:13 am 
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yeh, i tried that but made no difference, it does i suppose narrow down the culprit maybe?
cheers.

 

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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 1:40 am 
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If you just need new hotwires, try these guys out...

http://www.mass-air.com/Products.htm

But it sounds as though the maf may not be your problem if you cleaned it and it made no difference. Have you tried disconnecting the maf and driving the car? If there's no change then you have a problem. You should find that it won't idle too well though.

 

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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 9:27 am 
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The symptons those people list on their website, I have none of.

So, I'll unlug the sensor, drive it, should see a less quality idle? what if there's no change in idle quality?

Thanks.

 

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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 10:42 am 
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If there's no change it means you maf is stuffed.. Or seems it is... Gt maf's are calibrated different, same as cobra mafs so be aware..
in this case the EEC calibration is different to other Ford maf's...

 

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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 11:36 am 
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Try the the EL MAF hotwire on the stock body...it will work.

BTW.... MAF's are not "calibrated". The MAF transfer function is programmed into the EEC depending on which MAF you have.
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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 11:37 am 
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XR9UTE wrote:
Try the the EL MAF hotwire on the stock body...it will work.

BTW.... MAF's are not "calibrated". The MAF transfer function is programmed into the EEC depending on which MAF you have.


Did you mean try the GT MAF on the stock body?

 

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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 12:49 pm 
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Yes.
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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 1:44 pm 
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Ok, thanks.
What about the 2 yellow "eyes" on the inside of the hotwire, one of mine looks damaged, the other looks clean, do they perform just an important function as the wires themselves?
cheers.

 

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Pacemaker Exhaust system with Hi-Flow Cats
Tickford / GT Body Kit
Electric Sunroof / Moonroof
FR19 Simmons Wheels
Ghia / GT Interior

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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 4:16 pm 
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EL2XR8 wrote:
Ok, thanks.
What about the 2 yellow "eyes" on the inside of the hotwire, one of mine looks damaged, the other looks clean, do they perform just an important function as the wires themselves?
cheers.


Yellow eyes? There are two hotwires which are encased in glass. They are extremely important! If either are damaged the sensor is toast.
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Posted: Mon Jun 30, 2008 7:38 pm 
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XR9UTE wrote:
Try the the EL MAF hotwire on the stock body...it will work.

BTW.... MAF's are not "calibrated". The MAF transfer function is programmed into the EEC depending on which MAF you have.


So the hotwires on that site will suit our mafs fine, Pete? When last cleaning mine I noticed that one of the sensors is only holding on by just a thread. It seems to be doing its job for now though...

 

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Posted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 12:26 am 
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Scaffy wrote:
XR9UTE wrote:
Try the the EL MAF hotwire on the stock body...it will work.

BTW.... MAF's are not "calibrated". The MAF transfer function is programmed into the EEC depending on which MAF you have.


So the hotwires on that site will suit our mafs fine, Pete? When last cleaning mine I noticed that one of the sensors is only holding on by just a thread. It seems to be doing its job for now though...


Yep.
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Posted: Tue Jul 01, 2008 11:38 pm 
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Ok, so at normal operating temp, unplugged MAF sensor, very slight difference it idle, hardly noticeable, drove it while still unplugged, had no miss, ran fine throughout the rev range up to 4000.
So, MAF doesn't look right?
I can try putting a new ELGT MAF sensor onto the stock body and see what happens?

 

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EL II XR8
Pedders Sports Suspension
Pacemaker Exhaust system with Hi-Flow Cats
Tickford / GT Body Kit
Electric Sunroof / Moonroof
FR19 Simmons Wheels
Ghia / GT Interior

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Posted: Wed Jul 02, 2008 4:13 pm 
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Any more opinions guys?
cheers.

 

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Pedders Sports Suspension
Pacemaker Exhaust system with Hi-Flow Cats
Tickford / GT Body Kit
Electric Sunroof / Moonroof
FR19 Simmons Wheels
Ghia / GT Interior

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