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| Alan96EF |
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Hey everyone,
I plan to make my own exhaust, I want to do a quad system and i am a bit unsure on what will make it sound the best... I will be going from the cat back to any tips on what steel etc to use would be handy. My old man is a boiler make by trade and my mate is also, so between them the welding / bending shouldn't be an issue. My guess is a 2.5" system would be the go? Also, what are peoples thoughts of what tips i should put on, I am thinking twins either side... Cheers Alan
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| bry40l |
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i like the look of single dump pipe exhaust tips
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| ef_falcon_95 |
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3" would free it up a bit
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| bry40l |
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buy the mandrel bends, and if youve got the money make it out of stainless
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| Alan96EF |
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Half the reason i want to do it myself is the fct that a stainless steel cat back exhaust will cost over $2000. I would go mild steel for sure.
What are the different effects if you use stainless or mild? The overall sound would be the same wouldn't it?
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| the sam |
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Go twin 2.5" with single 3.5" dump pipes either side. I think the sound is slightly different between stainless and mild. Plus the stainless will last longer. Look up the different sounds on youtube. Also different bend angles will change the sound slightly. Exhaust is a very tricky area if you are after a specific sound...
_________________ LOW, LOUD AND LUMPY |
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| low_ryda |
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i'm a boily/1st class welder & fitter and i think making exhausts is geigh. i can run hundreds of meters of pipe around mills in and out of holes walls and gaps but i still think making exhausts is one of the worste jobs ever. i never used to give exhaust shops much credit but after doing a few of my own, they can have my money next time i want a standard exhaust done lol. it would be ok with a hoiste but sucks a** without one. just time consuming to get it right. it took me a full day to make an exhaust for my ute and it only goes from the cat to the diff with one muffler n one hot dog lol
i made mine using stainless tube bends and tube. the problem with this is the penetration into the pipe disturbs flow & causes turbulence. its still not as effective as bending a single length. having said that you will probably never notice the difference. also i find stainless exhausts seem to 'ring', 'rasp' and resonate alot more than mild steel. also as you get closer to the hot end, it looses its benifits over mild steel.
_________________ Not to get technical, but according to chemistry alcohol is a solution. |
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| Alan96EF |
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low_ryda wrote: i'm a boily/1st class welder & fitter and i think making exhausts is geigh. i can run hundreds of meters of pipe around mills in and out of holes walls and gaps but i still think making exhausts is one of the worste jobs ever. i never used to give exhaust shops much credit but after doing a few of my own, they can have my money next time i want a standard exhaust done lol. it would be ok with a hoiste but sucks a** without one. just time consuming to get it right. it took me a full day to make an exhaust for my ute and it only goes from the cat to the diff with one muffler n one hot dog lol i made mine using stainless tube bends and tube. the problem with this is the penetration into the pipe disturbs flow & causes turbulence. its still not as effective as bending a single length. having said that you will probably never notice the difference. also i find stainless exhausts seem to 'ring', 'rasp' and resonate alot more than mild steel. also as you get closer to the hot end, it looses its benifits over mild steel. So what you are saying is, that as i have no experience with all this i am better to just pay someone to do it for me? I've made quite a few calls and no one makes an of the shelf quad mild steel exhauset for B series Utes. So i would have to get someone to custom make it for me. I'm guessing it will cost alot... 
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| XR9UTE |
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Stainless gives a slightly harder sound...if you know what I mean?
I'm making my own(and have done before) and I purge weld with TIG which gives you a smooth weld inside the tube. I wouldn't bother putting all the effort in making it out of plain old mild steel. |
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| low_ryda |
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no definitely not saying don't have a go yourself !
i'm just saying, as a tradesman/sole trader that i like jobs to flow quickly and easily and doing an exhaust yourself doesn't go that way lol. i'm just having a whinge, i'm still impressed with the finished product. would be alot easier with some help to. i can't justify the cost of using that much argon to purge an exhaust, like i said, i doubt you would notice the difference anyway. Purging should still produce a bead on the inside if your doing it properly. it just doesn't look like a hairy a55hole inside. wouldn't bother with the effort for mild steel ? i can spend half a day just doing one weld on a big 4000kpa steam line in mild steel. It's only the under-educated that think steel is second best to stainless. Every material has it's use. hot dogs are designed to filter out the high end noise. i don't understand what a harder noise is ?
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| bry40l |
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The stainless lasts a lot longer and does change the sound
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| xafalcon |
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The metal used to make the exhaust can be based on several variables
- Cost. Mild steel is alot cheaper - Ease of construction. Generally mild steel is easier to weld, so you'll often get a better job in mild steel since this is the main metal of contruction. There are good stainless welders, but they're harder to find - Main driving conditions. If you do alot of short trips in the city, the exhaust won't get hot right to the exit and water will collect inside. This water is acidic with NOx and corrodes your exhaust. Stainless steel combats this. But if you drive long enough for the exhaust to get hot right to the end, a mild steel system will last as long as stainless steel - Stainless steel pipe wall thickness is generally less than mild steel so a stainless exhaust sounds more "tinny" - Stainless steel tends to become brittle when welded and can crack with vibrations I have had no problems with mild steel mufflers and pipes on cars I've owned for 10+ years - I live 10 minutes out of town, my exhaust is too hot to touch at the exit point when I get home. Yet my folks replaced their tailpipe every 2 years - they did many short trips in town. To me, this is the main determinant in material selection - will there be moisture present for significant amounts of time? And if you don't have a vehicle hoist, making an exhaust is a major feat. I only ever make the headers.
_________________ XA Faimont 351C, AU2 XR8 Manual 5.0, DA LTD 5.0, Mk1 Capri 5.0, 1995 Mustang 5.0, EF2 XR8 Manual, EF2 Fairmont Ghia 5.0, AU3 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Manual Ute, TE Cortina 5.0 Manual, DU LTD 5.0 soon to be manual |
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| Alan96EF |
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xafalcon wrote: The metal used to make the exhaust can be based on several variables - Cost. Mild steel is alot cheaper - Ease of construction. Generally mild steel is easier to weld, so you'll often get a better job in mild steel since this is the main metal of contruction. There are good stainless welders, but they're harder to find - Main driving conditions. If you do alot of short trips in the city, the exhaust won't get hot right to the exit and water will collect inside. This water is acidic with NOx and corrodes your exhaust. Stainless steel combats this. But if you drive long enough for the exhaust to get hot right to the end, a mild steel system will last as long as stainless steel - Stainless steel pipe wall thickness is generally less than mild steel so a stainless exhaust sounds more "tinny" - Stainless steel tends to become brittle when welded and can crack with vibrations I have had no problems with mild steel mufflers and pipes on cars I've owned for 10+ years - I live 10 minutes out of town, my exhaust is too hot to touch at the exit point when I get home. Yet my folks replaced their tailpipe every 2 years - they did many short trips in town. To me, this is the main determinant in material selection - will there be moisture present for significant amounts of time? And if you don't have a vehicle hoist, making an exhaust is a major feat. I only ever make the headers. Very helpful information here mate. My work is at least 30mins away and i don't do many short trips, My old man and mate have many years experience between them so i don't think the weld quality will be any trouble. My only setback will be working without a hoist. xafalcon, what would your opinion of Pipe dia should i use?
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| xafalcon |
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Sorry I can't give exact advice on pipe diameter as I'm not an exhaust expert. The above is just 25+ years collection of exhaust experiences.
But a common rule of thumb for pipe diameter is twin 2.5" is fine up to about 350 FWHP (260 FWKW). If above then pro-rata the area (3.14 x radius x radius) eg 3" duals good to about 500 FWHP. I always use the next size up mufflers eg. 2.5" pipe & 3" mufflers. And I usually decrease pipe diameter (to 2.25") after the muffler to keep exhaust velocity up as it cools down (and contracts in volume). This is for a 5.0 engine. But these are only my ideas, other will certainly have different ways of building exhausts.
_________________ XA Faimont 351C, AU2 XR8 Manual 5.0, DA LTD 5.0, Mk1 Capri 5.0, 1995 Mustang 5.0, EF2 XR8 Manual, EF2 Fairmont Ghia 5.0, AU3 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Auto, AU2 XR8 Manual Ute, TE Cortina 5.0 Manual, DU LTD 5.0 soon to be manual |
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| FordFairmont |
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Posts: 6113 Joined: 8th May 2007 |
nice post xafalcon
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