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My FMX being a b**ch 

 

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 Post subject: My FMX being a b**ch
Posted: Sat Nov 11, 2006 3:04 pm 
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I got FMX trouble, when you put the bugger into 1st and gun it, it changes gear!! it should hold 1st.
Also wont change back to first when coming to a stop.
Checked the vaccum thingy, kickdown..
and other ideas,

and yes it has oil

 

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Posted: Sat Nov 11, 2006 6:22 pm 
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Best thing you could do is rip it out and throw a C10 in it, use the FMX as a boat anchor, carefull though as it might sink your boat.
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Posted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 12:36 am 
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I agree with Walker, just make sure you drain the oil out first :lol: You don't want to kill the little fishies.

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 3:15 pm 
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Take it to a trans shop for a service. Nothing wrong with FMX's. They are a strong box. C10's (well actually they are a later revision of the C4) aren't that great. I've blown plenty and now have a Chev box. I got sick of replacing C10's! It's been two years and I've not had to touch a g/box. Couldn't get 6mths from a C10 without trouble. The C4/10's are a high maintanence box in high hp apps. Especially if they are built in Vic.

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 11:17 pm 
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brenx wrote:
Take it to a trans shop for a service. Nothing wrong with FMX's. They are a strong box. C10's (well actually they are a later revision of the C4) aren't that great. I've blown plenty and now have a Chev box. I got sick of replacing C10's! It's been two years and I've not had to touch a g/box. Couldn't get 6mths from a C10 without trouble. The C4/10's are a high maintanence box in high hp apps. Especially if they are built in Vic.


Did you ever speak to Steve Butchard 0414654327? I am guessing he is still in the game of importing the right parts for C4, he used to build them and he could advise how easy it is build a 800hp+ safe one, C4 is a very basic auto disassembly/assembly wise.

 

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Posted: Sun Nov 12, 2006 11:41 pm 
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Damage wrote:
brenx wrote:
Take it to a trans shop for a service. Nothing wrong with FMX's. They are a strong box. C10's (well actually they are a later revision of the C4) aren't that great. I've blown plenty and now have a Chev box. I got sick of replacing C10's! It's been two years and I've not had to touch a g/box. Couldn't get 6mths from a C10 without trouble. The C4/10's are a high maintanence box in high hp apps. Especially if they are built in Vic.


Did you ever speak to Steve Butchard 0414654327? I am guessing he is still in the game of importing the right parts for C4, he used to build them and he could advise how easy it is build a 800hp+ safe one, C4 is a very basic auto disassembly/assembly wise.

Seen many high HP C10's and they've held up well... Seen many FMX fail though!
Get them built right and you wont have a drama.
FMX weigh a lot more and drain more HP.
Anyway by the sounds of it we're only talking about a stock / mild app here.
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Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 1:05 am 
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Damage wrote:
brenx wrote:
Take it to a trans shop for a service. Nothing wrong with FMX's. They are a strong box. C10's (well actually they are a later revision of the C4) aren't that great. I've blown plenty and now have a Chev box. I got sick of replacing C10's! It's been two years and I've not had to touch a g/box. Couldn't get 6mths from a C10 without trouble. The C4/10's are a high maintanence box in high hp apps. Especially if they are built in Vic.


Did you ever speak to Steve Butchard 0414654327? I am guessing he is still in the game of importing the right parts for C4, he used to build them and he could advise how easy it is build a 800hp+ safe one, C4 is a very basic auto disassembly/assembly wise.


I won't mention who I have or have not spoken to or used. I don't want to dirty the water. Lets just say the C4's where getting close to the $4-5k mark. After every build the parts got more exotic. I had lots of billet parts. The main issue I had was when it came to warranty. They all accept your $ but won't remove the box @ their cost or fix it when it blows up. They all said it'd hold. It did hold but never more than 12mths. Generally it was usually the top gear clutch pack ($90 part). My last box exploded literally. It was in many pieces all over the road. Not good when your cruising @ 90kph. It's dangerous, hence I like my $3500 powerglide. 1000hp and no worries. My aim g/box wise was reliability, which unfortunately Vic builders couldn't provide :( I spent a s**tload of $ on C4's. If I'd did the glide 1st up. I'd be a hell of a lot better off financially :wink:

I'm lucky now as the glide is the same length as a T350 and T400 so if I want a 3spd auto I can just fit one of those.

I'm not sure if you saw CHI (cyl head innovations) built a 427ci clevor. The car the engine went into had a big $ C4 and it lasted 2 pass's. It's now getting a glide.

In the application above a shift kitted FMX is more than adequate. They'll handle 450hp. I wouldn't try a FMX at anymore than that. A mate has one in his GT and he's drag raced it for many years.

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 9:38 pm 
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thanks boys anchor it is!
Ive had other people suggest c10.!

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 9:43 pm 
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steve351 wrote:
thanks boys anchor it is!
Ive had other people suggest c10.!


Good luck with it. I hope it doesn't let you down.

 

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Posted: Mon Nov 13, 2006 9:46 pm 
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anchor! anchor! anchor! anchor! anchor!

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 8:45 pm 
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my c4 has lasted me good behind my ute, the only problem i have is when i leave it in drive and i flatten it, it shifts up at around 4200-4300rpm instead of 5500+.
can you change the shift point without pulling the box apart?

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 9:12 pm 
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smoke_rubber wrote:
my c4 has lasted me good behind my ute, the only problem i have is when i leave it in drive and i flatten it, it shifts up at around 4200-4300rpm instead of 5500+.
can you change the shift point without pulling the box apart?


You can but only to a limited point. The reason for this is the way they work. They have two systems which tell them to hold a gear. One is vac operated and the other is a kickdown lever.

In the back of the trans is a vac modulator (some are adjusrable). I can't recall whether it's anti clockwise or clockwise. The adjuster is inside the brass tube. Adjust till the shift points are higher in the rpm band. Other than that? You need to rig up the kickdown lever mech or change the gear manually.

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 9:12 pm 
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smoke_rubber wrote:
my c4 has lasted me good behind my ute, the only problem i have is when i leave it in drive and i flatten it, it shifts up at around 4200-4300rpm instead of 5500+.
can you change the shift point without pulling the box apart?


You can but only to a limited point. The reason for this is the way they work. They have two systems which tell them to hold a gear. One is vac operated and the other is a kickdown lever.

In the back of the trans is a vac modulator (some are adjusrable). I can't recall whether it's anti clockwise or clockwise. The adjuster is inside the brass tube. Adjust till the shift points are higher in the rpm band. Other than that? You need to rig up the kickdown lever mech or change the gear manually.

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 9:12 pm 
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double post.

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 15, 2006 9:24 pm 
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yeh the kickdown cable is as far as it goes when it's WOT.
i have to manually shift it if i wanna drive it hard which i spose might teach me to be a bit more light footed. it dosen't bother me but knowing it can be adjusted, i might do it when it needs a service.

this vacuum modulator - will it leak trans oil if i pull it out for adjustment?

 

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