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oil level with engine running 

 

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 Post subject: oil level with engine running
Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2007 5:19 pm 
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as some may be aware i recently upgraded my e7's to gt40p's.

i've always used the same oil. now when it warms up the engine is a bit tappity. its fine when cold though. i'm hoping i don't have an oil supply issue.

my question is, and it may seem a silly question, but should the level in the sump drop down a lot when the engine is running? i assume it should but my only other experiences are with 6's. the v8's don't need a lot of oil pumped up to the heads or so i'm hoping. when i check the level on the dipstick, it is still up near full with engine running.

i've had the rocker covers off again and there is definitely oil getting to the rockers. i don't have a pressure gauge but the light doesn't come on.

is it normal or do i have some sort of oil pump/pickup issue? the noise seems a lot louder with bonnet down. with bonnet up it is hardly worth worrying about.

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2007 6:08 pm 
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Hmmm.... well dont put too much credence in the oil light. It only really comes on when there's NO oil passing the sender.

My experience has shown maybe a mm or two in difference on the dipstick when comparing stationary engine to running one. But consider the surface area in the sump and that represents a *reasonable* amount of oil moving through the engine at any given time.

What viscosity oil?

Mate ive got a mech oil pressure guage sitting around doing nothing if you want. I dont have the copper piping that goes from the sender to the gauge but have the fittings you need to fit up to a 5.0L.... lol, removing the stock sender is NOT a fun job tho!

Lifters in good nick when you had it all apart?

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2007 7:51 pm 
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i know all about the sender! had the original one let go not long after i bought it. had to 'modify' a spanner to get it.

if you say in your experience it only drops a couple of mm then i may be ok. i'm comparing it to my experience with 6's and they drop about an inch but i'm hoping the fact that they are ohc makes a difference in the amount of oil needed up top of the motor.

to be honest i didn't really check the lifters. they were fine when i pulled it apart so i left them alone. not really that big a job to get to though, now that i've done it once.

i guess the easiest way for me to find out is to hook up a gauge. i don't have one on my dash and not sure how accurate they are anyway.

martin if you have one just sitting around gathering dust i may be interested. getting tuned tomorrow so i'll see what sean (boostworx) says. he may hook up a gauge for me.

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2007 7:56 pm 
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oil is 5/40 full synthetic. (helix ultra) before anyone starts up about the oil, i've been using it for years and i'm a big fan.

if i have reasonable oil pressure then i may go to a 5 or 10 or 15/50 and see what happens.

i didn't mention the oil in the original thread as i didn't want this to end up an oil debate.

ppl tell me a 5/40 is too thin and i should have a 15/40. not true. the issue i have is when it's warmed up and they are both 40. i like a thinner oil on startup as it gets around quicker.

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2007 8:36 pm 
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Could be valve guides, the later model Windsors are known to have a problem there.

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2007 10:19 pm 
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i guess what i'm asking is if those running efi 5.0's could check their oil with engine off and cold and then with engine on and see what the difference on the stick is.

mine only drops down a couple of mm but i don't know if its normal or if it should be a lot more.

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2007 10:32 pm 
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Thats normal mate, i dont need to go out and check it to tell ya. :lol:

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2007 10:51 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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cheers. thats a relief. maybe i have a couple of lifters that have seen better days, although its not a real loud tap when it warms up which makes me think it may be time to choose a new oil in a x/50 blend. can't hurt. used to be able to get helix ultra in 15/50 but not any more.

even though i still have a ho manifold it def feels a lot better. hoping for good results tomorrow. will post up some numbers in my other thread (au2 heads onto eb) if they are worth bragging about.

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2007 10:57 pm 
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Shell Helix Plus is a good economically priced oil, I'd suggest giving it a go if you want to try something a little thicker.

Alternatively Penrite HPR 15 (15/60) is my preferred oil in later model hydraulic roller engines that have done a few k's.

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2007 10:58 pm 
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prydey wrote:
even though i still have a ho manifold it def feels a lot better. hoping for good results tomorrow. will post up some numbers in my other thread (au2 heads onto eb) if they are worth bragging about.


Any increase in power is worth telling us about, even if you decrease power in some miracle way you still have to tell us :wink: .

Good luck with it mate, will be checking back to ya other thread tomorrow.

 

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Posted: Mon Jul 16, 2007 11:01 pm 
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I'd say the geometry in valve train is alittle different than it was before???
As is alittle more clearance or less pre load than there should be....

 

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Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 12:43 pm 
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my lifters clatter after doin the cam ...i thought it was just the extra lift.....rechecked the preload ....still the same
solution ....turn the radio up :lol:
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Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 1:33 pm 
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turning the radio up works for the noise my welded diff makes but would'nt recomend it for valvetrain noise its not a huge job to pull the rocker covers off and check pre load clerance the new heads might have a bigger thumb print causing them to sit higher and change clerances...
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Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 2:12 pm 
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prydey, i have had similar probs when i changed to 2031 cam in au.
i fitted cam and set preload to 45 thou with 50 thou oversize pushrods and had slight tick.
fitted new lifters when fitted fully recoed gt40p heads and still a slight tick.
Have tried different grades of oil and really hasnt made any diff to the noise.
resealed extractors (paceys) as i think this could be my prob extractors are 135000kms old, after resealing its less ticky but only for a shrt time.
I reckon my flanges are worped. Could be wrong thou.
This tick only started when changed cam so shouldnt be oil pressure as was fine before cam change.
Interested if you solve your prob as to what it is.

 

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Posted: Tue Jul 17, 2007 6:13 pm 
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BOTTLEDUP wrote:
Shell Helix Plus is a good economically priced oil, I'd suggest giving it a go if you want to try something a little thicker.

Alternatively Penrite HPR 15 (15/60) is my preferred oil in later model hydraulic roller engines that have done a few k's.


full synthetic only in my cars. i don't want to turn this into an oil debate.

seems the noise may be a lifter or 2.

 

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