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Oil Pump 

 

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 Post subject: Oil Pump
Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 2:42 pm 
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Ride: XHII V8S Ute

Location: Darwin
NT, Australia

Hi folks,

My ute has been a small pain lately. At normal operating temperature and at low rpm sitting at the lights in drive (auto) the oil pressure warning comes on. I've changed the oil and replaced the filter and it still happens. The next port of call is to have the pressure switch replaced. I've got a new one but it needs a 1/16th tube socket so it will need to go the the mechanic and I haven't been able to get it in lately. Clearly if there is a problem I need to address it quicksmart before I blow the engine! Is it common for the oil pump to wear out/go dead on the 5L windors? Or is it likely that the pressure switch is stuffed? It doesn't happen when the motor is cool - its got the right viscoscity motor oil (valvoline XLD amour 20W-40 or 15W-40 from memory) which should be fine as per the owners manual.

Thanks for the help in advance.

 

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 Post subject: Re: Oil Pump
Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 3:06 pm 
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Power: 237 rwkw

Location: Melbourne
VIC, Australia

get an accurate pressure gauge onto it before you panic.

 

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 Post subject: Re: Oil Pump
Posted: Mon Jun 28, 2010 3:17 pm 
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Ride: XH Ute / AU3 V8 Wagon

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I think you may need a thicker oil. 20W50 is more like what a winger would use, 40 is a bit thin for an old pushrod motor....

 

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 Post subject: Re: Oil Pump
Posted: Wed Jun 30, 2010 12:59 pm 
Stock as a Rock
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Age: 31

Posts: 197

Joined: 3rd Dec 2005

Ride: XHII V8S Ute

Location: Darwin
NT, Australia

Yeah I was wrong it does have 20W-50 in it...I've using it for years as it is a pushrod and its done 230,000K now.

Got a socket and put the new sender in the boffins at the auto shop didn't give me the right one....gave me a switch instead. Good news is that the although the needle is permanently stuck at the top of the gauge when we replicate the conditions where we had an oil warning the needle doesn't move (it won't because it has a switch on the end not a sender) if the oil pressure was low then the switch would open/close whatever it does and thus the gauge would drop dead. The right sender is on its way but from the looks of things it appears to be ok, just a case of a faulty sender unit.

 

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