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s**t 1/4 Mile time..... 

 

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 Post subject: s**t 1/4 Mile time.....
Posted: Wed Nov 29, 2006 11:42 pm 
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ok people ive taken my car down the drags with the new engine and im very disappointed...its an EB 5L auto.

with the old engine i pulled a 14.8 @ 92mph. mods at that stage were:
- std engine with 2030 cam and springs only
- 4.11 diff gears
- underdrive crank pulley
- shift kit & 2500 stall
- K&N panel filter
- EL GT snorkel

with the new engine i could only manage a 15.3. @ 89 mph new engine consists of :
- std bottom end bored out 30 thou
- stock heads
- 2040 cam & crow springs
- crow timing chain set
- 1.7 roller rocker
- Edelbrock performer intake
- 70mm tb
- 75mm AU MAF
- Tweecer

now ive got 3.45s instead of 4.11 and the stock crank pulley is back on..

i was expecting at least the same if not better

what the f**k is goin on ?????? :twisted:
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Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 12:10 am 
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could be the new engine is still "tight"

or that the the 4.11's were the big diff
what happend to the stall convetor
and why no underdrive pully?

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 12:32 am 
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still got the stalley....underdrive had to go coz it was a really small crank pulleybut it still had the orig water pump pulley & alternator pulley.....the proper kits have smaller crank, but bigger water pump and alternator to make up the differnce so it still uses the original belt.....my pulley wasnt givin enough alternator charge so i had to go back to stock 4 now...
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Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 12:38 am 
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When you fit the bigger waterpump and alternator pulleys up with your underdrive crank pulley, you are basically defeating the purpose, cause the only other things left are the power steer, and the aircon which doesnt get used when max power is being chased. The 4.11's will definately be helping your ¼ times, as you will actually be able to get off the line. What are your 60'ers now, Im guessing around 2.8ish, where as before they would have been low 2's. Get the power down early and the top speed will come, lag off the line, and your chasing your tail to top speed.

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 12:51 am 
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yeah..i originally thought the trap speed would be higher with the 3.45s, but obviously not......actually the 60 footer are about the same....60 footers are 2.3 - 2.4 now where as before (the 14.8 run) they were 2...2's - 2.4s
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Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 1:44 am 
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Disco Frank wrote:
could be the new engine is still "tight"

or that the the 4.11's were the big diff
what happend to the stall convetor
and why no underdrive pully?


id put a cuouple tenths to the 4.11s being gone, also some time to the motor not being fully run in yet.. but yeh youd expect better hey..

have u made a tune yet? wot u pullin at the treads? u may find that with the change of maf the afrs could use a slight tweak.. there will be some time in there too..

did the new pistons possibly lower your compression ratio?(ie big negative cutouts for big valves but no 'positive meat')

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 1:52 am 
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the motors about 2000kms old now...and the tweecer tune was done bout 3 or 4 weeks ago...it wasnt tuned on the dyno, it was done on the fly but im taking it to the UCCC dyno day on December 10th at APC in wangara...ill see wat it pulls then....nah theres no bigger notches or bigger valves...stock heads and bottom end....
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Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 1:46 pm 
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I wouldn't be suprised if this motor is making less power than the "old" combination.

Why did you swap the 2030 for the 2040? The 2030 is a much better cam (the 2040 is the E303 Ford Performance cam).

The Performer intake is good, but overkill with those stock heads (although a HO intake with ported lower 1 & 5 would be a better match with this combo...aka small heads)

The AU MAF is good (although AU is only 70mm...sure its an AU MAF?)

The 70mm TB is overkill, but is OK. Certainly wouldn't expect to loos any power because of it.

TwEECer is good. Who tuned it? Did they dial in the correct MAF Transfer curve for the AU MAF?

Put the 2030 (make sure your springs are up to it), underdrives, and 4:11's back in...it'll hammer ;)

EDIT: And for gods sake...get some better heads on it!!!! :P
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Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 8:05 pm 
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As a bit of a guide, I ran 15.4 in an EF Fairmint with a 3" exhaust, 65mm TB and underdrive pulllies at Heathcote, which is one of the slowest tracks in Australia.

Having underdrive pullies with larger alternator and water pump pullies makes them underdriven further, so they spin slower/use less power.

IMO 4.11's wouls make it slower over the 1/4 with stock heads, and stock sized tyres.

Everyone gets offended when this is suggested, but maybe you just need to find a better driver, or practice up on launch techniques? Drag racing is certainly more involved than flooring it for 15 seconds. If you have your timkeslip handy, do you reckon you could post every time from it?
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Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 8:28 pm 
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sorry my bad, I just realised what I posted before.

Bigger alt & water pulley will underdrive them further...

hmmm better back of the reebs I think

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 9:28 pm 
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xr8ute wrote:
I wouldn't be suprised if this motor is making less power than the "old" combination.

Why did you swap the 2030 for the 2040? The 2030 is a much better cam (the 2040 is the E303 Ford Performance cam).

The Performer intake is good, but overkill with those stock heads (although a HO intake with ported lower 1 & 5 would be a better match with this combo...aka small heads)

The AU MAF is good (although AU is only 70mm...sure its an AU MAF?)

The 70mm TB is overkill, but is OK. Certainly wouldn't expect to loos any power because of it.

TwEECer is good. Who tuned it? Did they dial in the correct MAF Transfer curve for the AU MAF?

Put the 2030 (make sure your springs are up to it), underdrives, and 4:11's back in...it'll hammer ;)

EDIT: And for gods sake...get some better heads on it!!!! :P


i might change that cam back and see what happens...i thought the 2040 would be a better cam as it had more duration & lobe seperation, and had higgher rev range... ill leave the tb and intake as heads will be on in 8 weeks or so...the MAF is an AU..maybe it is 70mm...BPT done the tweecer and the correct maf transfer curve was selected afaik....and 3.9s or 4.11s are on the cards along with a minispool..we'll see how that goes..
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Posted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 9:41 am 
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Don't feel too bad in my stock EL XR8 185kw I got a 15.8

I've got under drives and a 75mm throttle body now.
I'd like to see if that does anything for me.

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 12:12 pm 
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I definately would of said diff gears and the cam.

I'd choose the 2030 over the 2040 any day too, the 2040 is too small in my opinion.

To get the best out of the manifold, cam and all other intake components i'd definately be going for better heads.....I reckon with that combo and GT40P's you'd see pretty low 14's

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 2:17 pm 
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I'd be disappointed with 15.3 too. Are you losing traction?
I'd suggest wacking the 4.11 diff back in there straight away to get the car up to a decent speed faster. Oh and put the hi-stall back on it so you can stall it up on the line.
Other than that.. i got nothing.
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Posted: Fri Dec 01, 2006 3:20 pm 
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the highstall is still there......hmm..this cam things got me buggered....i put the 2040 in the new engine before i knew wat cam was in the old engine as i didnt put it in..then wen i stripped my old engine down i found out was it was....
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