Had to fix my front brakes today (long overdue) and thought that I may as well write up a quick little doc on how to go about replacing your front pads/rotors/bearings (Dont think there is one around here, if there is well there are now 2 ). If you just want to replace pads, skip over everything between taking the caliper off and putting the new pads in. Although this doc just details routine replacement on an EF, you can use these instructions for upgrading brakes on most falcons (installing slotted rotors and performance pads).

Also keep in mind that whatever you do to one side you have to do to the other. If you need to replace one disk, just replace them both. Same goes for pads and bearings.

Tools needed:
Torque wrench
29mm socket or 1 1/8"
13mm spanner
Flat head screwdriver or chisel
hammer (or something heavy to hit stuff)
g-clamp

Products needed
Brake disks X 2
Wheel bearing kits X 2 (2 bearings and a seal required for each side)
Wheel bearing grease
Degreaser (spray can is good)
Pack of split pins (The ones that are approx 40mm long)



Expect to pay around $200 for standard replacement parts, more if you go for slotted rotors and/or performance pads.

How to do it
Note: As you remove the components of the brakes clean all traces of the old grease. You want everything to be clean before you put the new grease in and put it all back together.

Loosen the wheel nuts on one side of the front of the car and jack it up and add some support (dont trust your life to a scissor jack). Remove the wheel nuts and the wheel.


Remove the two 13mm bolts on the back of the brake caliper, pull it up and rest it behind the brake disk. Dont leave the brake caliper hanging by its hose.



Next you need to remove the cap in the middle of the brake disk. This is a press fit, so you need to use a screwdriver or chisel and hammer to start seperating it from the rest of the hub. If the last person to do the brakes was kind this will be pretty easy, if they laid into it with a hammer to put it back on it might take quite a while.



Use your pliers to bend the arms of the split pin straight and pull it out. The locking nut cap will the slide off. You will see the retaining nut in the center - remove it (it will only be done up lightly) and the washer behind it. You can then pull the rotor off (the outer bearing will come out with it) and slide the inner bearing off. Get stuck into it with degreaser and a rag to remove all the old grease, then add a light coating of fresh grease to all the shiny surfaces.



Next you need to press the new seal into the brake disk. Turn the disk over so the studs are facing down and sit the seal in the middle. Using a hammer and blunt punch (or screwdriver) tap the seal all the way into place (not just so its level with the top, ALL the way down). It might be a bit tricky to get started, just try to keep it square and use gentle taps in a star pattern until it bottoms out.



Next you need to pack the bearings with grease. Make sure your hands are clean and put a big blob of grease in your palm. Push the outer edge of the bearing into the grease so that it is forced up through the rollers and you see it coming out the top. You will end up with two heavy packed bearings that are quite hard to turn by hand. Slide the larger inner bearing onto the spindle.



Lightly coat the disk seal and bearing cups with grease and slide it over the spindle so it sits on the bearing. Push the outer bearing down the spindle.



Slide the washer back on, then the retaining bolt. Doing the bolt up is a bit of a tricky process. First you want to tighten it to around 30NM (22 ft-lb) while you are turning the disk (turn the disk with one hand as you tighten with the torque wrench using the other). Doing this pushes the seals and bearings into place evenly. One at 30NM, back off the nut 1/2 a turn, then tighten it finger tight (dont use the socket, just your fingers). Over tightening the nut will put to much pressure on the bearings and they will overheat and wear out sooner. Once the nut is done up, put the nut cap back on and slide a new split pin through and bend it.



Tap the cap back in place with a hammer



Now you need to clean off all the machining oil and rust protection that is on the rotor before you put the rest of the brakes back together. Spray some degreaser on a rag and give the surface a good wipe down. Once that is done, use some metho if you have it to wash away any of the degreaser left behind. If the brake disk feels greasy or oily, keep cleaning. Once clean, remove the old pads and install the new ones. Since the new pads and disk will be thicker than the old ones you need to push the brake piston back into the caliper to give you enough room to put it back together. Use a G-clamp to do this.



Push the inner pad into the piston, then slide the outer pad over the caliper



Slide the caliper back into place (might need to lever the bolt spacers back for room) and refit the 13mm caliper bolts.



Replace the wheel, and repeat for the other side.

Running in
The new disks and pads need time to bed in. Before you drive, pump the brake pedal a few times until the pressure is returned to pads. Drive slowly and test that the brakes are still working (might be poor to begin with). Do a few runs to 50kph and brake firmly (not heavily). After a dozen or so times you should be good to go.

nice write up champ? should one bleed the brake system too after?

Although you dont need to, its not a bad idea while you have the wheel off and your tools out to bleed (remove air) or flush (replace the fluid) the brake lines. Might add some pics + instructions for doing that as well.

really helpfull.will do this job next wkend.
my discs r wraped and have to change or machine.
this gunna be really helpfull to me.

nice write up, it's pretty simple and easy to follow.
only thing i can pick is that you forgot to mention greasing up the slide pins.

Well done will help some of the less mechanically able fm'ers save some money.

p.s. why stock rotors? no dba's?

This woulda been handy yesterday. Mind you i only did rear pads, front pads are getting done on monday.
Was a bastard of a job to do the rears, but fronts look a hell of alot easier. And yeah it took us a while to push the piston back in, we had a few problems with it, but all was good in the end.
Good write up mate.

stockstandard, you never cease to amaze me with your brilliance, well done.

his name ain't stockstandard for nothing!

lol

No need for anything else but stock rotors on the EF, it has a pretty easy life.

Good doco stockstandard, just thought I might add, when you change the pads, don't forget the anti squeal shims.
They'll probably stay on the caliper, but they are easy to drop and forget to put back in.

if you read the installation guide that comes with it it says not to use degreaser on break rotors use rotor cleaner/break cleaner

thats because lots of degreasers still leave oily residue. If you give it wipe with metho or clean until its not oily there is no problem.

Oh and yeah your right steady ed, there are little metal shims (metal strips) between the brake pads and the calipers. Dont forget to put them back when the new pads go in.

Just a note. I notice the grease is HTB (high temp bearing). DIY's should note that the grease is indeed HTB or Disc Brake Bearing grease. You just mention bearing grease in products needed.

Good post. I learnt the above the hard way.
Also don't mix greases or coolants.

lol. i just sat out in the driveway for 6 hours figuring all this out for myself...thanks for confirming my thoughts champ:)