Hi, just wondering if anyone can help me with a quick enquiry. I am wanting to put an addative into the diff on my BA Futura. When I jacked the car and got under it, I couldn't immediately see the drain or filler plugs.
When looking at the diff from underneath facing the back there are mounting bolts on the left and right, each about where I would expect to find a fill point. on the bottom of the diff there are no signs of a drain plug.

Does this mean you have to remove the backing plate the get into the diff, due to a lack of exterior drain plugs?

Or was I simply suffering blindness and need to look again?

Any help or advise will be much appreciated!
MaTTe

It will probably be one of those lower bolts that hold the cover on.

Nulon G70 is the s**t whenit comes to diff or manual gearbox aditives.

There's a bolt at the bottom that holds the cover on, this is the drain bolt/plug. The filler bolt/plug is on the side of the housing and very hard to get to. It has an 1&1/8" head on it.

Cheers cjh! I'll get back under and sort her out. Much appreciated!

Nulon has a reasonably good range of products, but the BEST products are made by friction free products here in WA, only licenced manufacturers in Aus. The microglide range of addatives are the ultimate. on a pressure wheel, with any standard engine oil I can make the bearing stop with a featherweight 20-30ft/lbs of pressure. gearbox/diff oils usually break at around 70ft/lbs. With this addative you cannot stop the bearing, wear is non-existant, even at over 120ft/lbs.

Cheers cjh! I'll get back under and sort her out. Much appreciated!

Nulon has a reasonably good range of products, but the BEST products are made by friction free products here in WA, only licenced manufacturers in Aus. The microglide range of addatives are the ultimate. on a pressure wheel, with any standard engine oil I can make the bearing stop with a featherweight 20-30ft/lbs of pressure. gearbox/diff oils usually break at around 70ft/lbs. With this addative you cannot stop the bearing, wear is non-existant, even at over 120ft/lbs.

Dont get it on your hands, especially Penrite Purple, it sticks and is hard to get off

Not as bad as moly grease

Cheers team, the job was vastly easier than I made it originally. Poor lighting had the filler plug well hidden.

Wasn't all that hard to crack with the ratchet and 1 1/8" socket. I ended up getting an old (but brand new) XE falcon heater hose, shaving the leading edge a little for ease of application, and put half a 600ml water bottle over the other end of the heater hose. Then I poured the addative into the diff from next to the rear wheel. Easy.

I ran it in a little while it was still jacked, then took it for a cruise to work it in a bit more. I had never had traction control kick in at half throttle in a straight line before. Now my Range goes up a km on short trips, rather than down.

Cheers for the help! It was well worthwhile!
MaTTeB

will those additives quieten the diff mines just starting to make a small noise dont want it to get worse.

I went to a trade night once where they had some stuff like that, and one of those wheel/bearing things, and the guy bet me I couldn't wear the bearing down, so I got hold of it, and stop the thing dead, and the guy sh!t himself, fearing I had burnt the motor out. It was funny, all the guys standing around laughed.
Anyway, never heard of Friction free products.

In answer to your diff question, depending on what the source of the noise is, the addative may eliminate the noise, if it's a bearing, you'll need to replace it. the addative will make the diff operate much more smoothly and quietly.. You unfortunately CANNOT put this addative into an LSD, doing so will turn your LSD into an openwheeler because it cannot detect friction.

yeah, don't worry I have heard of MANY products stating the claim to be the BEST, and as you say, you break the oil at a minimal pressure despite their claims, and usually excessive price.

I only know of one other product that can stand upto the claim of not breaking at 120ft/lbs plus. truth being that, at 120ft/lbs the handle of the pressure wheel is starting to flex. These are no leightweight addatives. and they have saved/revitilised/unlocked everything within the many cars of my and my families eras.

I use Friction Free products in all new cars I service, the commonwhore I did today benefited a treat.
I use PROMA in all older cars, or more worn cars and drivelines that I service.

I HIGHLY recommend these products to all Ford users (I'd rather the fords with unfair advantage)
Happy Motoring fellas!
MaTTe

I am gona sound like an idiot probally, but can you put friction free aditives into your engine?

this product in your engine promotes all the things every company pushes, however throughout the entire rev range, RPM builds more exponentially rather than laterally. I find changing down takes a second or two less, because it is easier for the engine to adapt to different RPM. More response, more fuel economy(if you can NOT lead foot it - its not easy) and more importantly, the power and torque of the engine are always obvious and available.

This particular product is in a universal state. Meaning you can use it in your engines (NA,Turbo,LPG, or Diesel), and into your manual gearboxes, and into your open, or locker diffs - not LSD or transfer cases(for the 4wd boys)

Then if you want to create the worlds best grease, blend a minimal amount into your standard grease, and enjoy the benefits.

I currently have addative in my engine, diff and power steering. I'll put the auto transmission addative in over the coming weeks. This is a completely different addative.

I also use the Friction free fuel addative. It is essentially your octane booster, upper cylinder lubricant, and fuel system clenser.. but it is also one of the most effective products for unblocking injectors.
We ran this addative through an AUIII I6 That was running on 5 cylinders, after tracing the problem back to the injector, we simply put a double dose of this addative in(6.25ml per 25L times 2) essentially about 25ml in total with a full tank. The car started on 5 cylinders, but within seconds had the 6th cylinder in partial action, and seconds later had the entire fuel system operating like new.

when I first got onto the product the $70/litre price threw me on first glance. but the benefit outweighed the price, and the realisation of how far the product goes (even with double dosing) has kept me coming back.

Quickly, whilst racing one weekend at Wanneroo raceway (WA), our HQ was leading the race 4 laps into a 10 lap race. Suddenly we lost all oil pressure, usually meaning you're about to window the block. The driver drove the car at 95% for 2 laps before realising the car was still performing contently. So the driver figured it was a wiring issue and continued racing, averaging 5500RPM for the remaining 4 laps.

When we pulled the engine down, it turned out the bell shape of the oil pickup had broken off the feeder tube. Interestingly, none of the pistons, rings, bearings or cylinders showed ANY signs of wear. We were expecting mass scoring, extreme discoloration and/or warping.

However we were lucky to have access to a quality product that kept that engine winning all season.

If anyone is in desperate need of a quality product, and you're willing to pay for postage, I'll go and get you a bottle. email if you need pontiac_cjb@hotmail.com

just thrash some commonwhores for me
keep the Fords fighting strong!

Drop PROMA MBL in to any Ford Engine with Mobile 1 API 10W 50 and wait 4 weeks driving gently then NAIL the sucker. You will get a pleasnt supprise.