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diff centre interchangability 

 

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 Post subject: diff centre interchangability
Posted: Wed Nov 01, 2006 12:26 pm 
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I'm wrecking out a EB series 2 fairmont, which has a good diff centre. And I have EL wagon with a rooted diff centre. Are the centres the same? Am I able to do a straight swap?

Both cars are auto and I realise the wagon is leaf sprung and the fairmont isn't but are the diff housign internals the same or have they changed dramatically in these 2 models :?:

Thanks in advance for any help

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 01, 2006 2:14 pm 
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yep it should go in no problems.

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 01, 2006 10:04 pm 
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AFAIK, the diff internals are the same, BUT, you need a special spreader to spread the actual diff housing about 2 mm in order to actualy remove the diff center, Why the f**k Ford designed the diff that way I have no idea, but it has successfully prevented me from changing a lot of diff centers.
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Posted: Wed Nov 01, 2006 10:05 pm 
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creeture3 wrote:
AFAIK, the diff internals are the same, BUT, you need a special spreader to spread the actual diff housing about 2 mm in order to actualy remove the diff center, Why the f**k Ford designed the diff that way I have no idea, but it has successfully prevented me from changing a lot of diff centers.


Its all diffs that work that way, not just fords.

And you dont need the diff spreader to do it, there are a few easy tricks to swapping centers ;)

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 01, 2006 10:13 pm 
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looks in boot and at the piece of chain on wall! =P

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 01, 2006 10:20 pm 
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nah nothing that dodgy.

Unless you have a proper diff spreader (with a dial indicator) I would seriously recommend against trying to spread the housing. You can very easily bend the diff.

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 01, 2006 10:27 pm 
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Thanks guys, good to hear it should fit :)

Anyone care to share these tricks to swap the centres?

What part needs to be "spread"? I've changed plenty of diff centres before in suzuki sierras and toyota landcruisers and there was no trick to them, just pull axels out and pull centre out. Whats different about these ford diffs?

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 01, 2006 10:34 pm 
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howsie wrote:
Thanks guys, good to hear it should fit :)

Anyone care to share these tricks to swap the centres?

What part needs to be "spread"? I've changed plenty of diff centres before in suzuki sierras and toyota landcruisers and there was no trick to them, just pull axels out and pull centre out. Whats different about these ford diffs?


Ideally the housing itself needs to be spread. There are holts on either side of the center (just before the axel tubes) where the housing spreader grabs. And yeah your right, not all diffs work that way but lots do. If you dont have a spreader you need brute force, but if you get everything in the right spot and lever the center the right way its pops out quite easy (well the 3 or 4 ive done have anyway). Will be easier if I take some pics to show how I do it. Ill post them up tomorrow.

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 01, 2006 10:52 pm 
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Isn't the EB a 25 spline axle?

I know you won't need the spreader for the EL wagon, I've pulled apart quite a few EF/EL's and never needed to spread the case.

and as a general rule, use the shims that are in the diff.
replace the centre at will as BTR made the hemispheres (in theory) the same.

and if it turns out noisey hop along to the diff shop :P

 

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Posted: Wed Nov 01, 2006 10:58 pm 
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eb series 2 will be 28 spline (28 splines started filtering in the ea2's).

All the falcon borg warner diffs "need" diff spreaders. However some are loose and will basically fall out and some are f**k tight and will need lots of force.

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 02, 2006 7:38 am 
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yeah, pics are always good :)

 

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Posted: Fri Nov 03, 2006 4:27 pm 
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First crack the pinion nut. The easiest way by far Ive found to do this is to get some 1" square tube, drill 2 holes with the same spacing as the flange and use that to stop the center from turning when you undo the nut.

Image

If the diff is still in the car and your lucky you might be able to just use the handbrake to hold the axels while you crack the nut. Once the nut is cracked, remove the axels and diff cover plate. The parts inside a falcon diff (you probably know all this):

Image
(there is no pinion in this housing but that doesn’t make any difference)
Image


I back off the bearing cap bolts but leave the caps on (stop the center falling out). Not also the 'lever point' on the center.

Image

Rotate the center so the lever point is roughly as shown here. Put a 1/2 inch ratchet or breaker bar between the housing and the ring gear bolts and rotate center until it locks. Use then lever the center from the lever point.

Image
Image

Once the center is just about free, remove the bearing caps and pull the center out.

Image

You will then have the housing with just the pinion in it

Image

Unscrew the pinion nut and knock the flange off the pinion gear shaft (use wood and hammer). Then knock the pinion back into the diff. Have to support the pinion while you do this as if it drops it will hit the housing.

Image

Push the new pinion in, slide the flange on and use the pinion nut to pull it all the way on.

Carefully sit the new center in the housing (careful about hitting the pinion and ring gears together).

Image

Slide a shim into one side and push the center and bearings over to pack it in. The next picture shows how I get the other shim in. It didn’t come out well, but I do is slide a flat head screwdriver down between the housing and the bearing cap. Use your thumb as a lever to apply pressure pushing the bearing together while pushing down on the shim with the palm of your hand. Give the screwdriver a few hits with your other hand while pressing down on the shim hard. Once the shim has cleared the little cutout in the housing (you'll see what I mean) use a piece of wood and hammer to tap the shim in all the way.

Image
Image

put the caps back on and tighten them and the pinion nuts to torque specs, put the housing cover and axels back in etc, etc.

I think that’s just about it. If the housing is loose the whole thing is really easy. If its tight it just requires lots of force.

 

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Posted: Fri Nov 03, 2006 4:39 pm 
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that is awesome.. I vote that post be put as a sticky in the doco section.
Cheers heaps for that.
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Posted: Fri Nov 03, 2006 6:04 pm 
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your just full on info stockstandard! always informative and interesting posts ;)

 

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Posted: Sat Nov 04, 2006 11:36 am 
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Nice job done there easy to follow.

If I could add, when you have the pinion out, the flange can be a b**ch to put on and take off especially when setting backlash. If you have the time and patience get some valve grinding paste and continually put the flange on and take off until it comes off without hassles (use a press if you can). took me an hour to do it and saves the frustration of knocking it off every time.
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