I'm wrecking out a EB series 2 fairmont, which has a good diff centre. And I have EL wagon with a rooted diff centre. Are the centres the same? Am I able to do a straight swap?

Both cars are auto and I realise the wagon is leaf sprung and the fairmont isn't but are the diff housign internals the same or have they changed dramatically in these 2 models

Thanks in advance for any help

yep it should go in no problems.

AFAIK, the diff internals are the same, BUT, you need a special spreader to spread the actual diff housing about 2 mm in order to actualy remove the diff center, Why the f**k Ford designed the diff that way I have no idea, but it has successfully prevented me from changing a lot of diff centers.

Its all diffs that work that way, not just fords.

And you dont need the diff spreader to do it, there are a few easy tricks to swapping centers

looks in boot and at the piece of chain on wall! =P

nah nothing that dodgy.

Unless you have a proper diff spreader (with a dial indicator) I would seriously recommend against trying to spread the housing. You can very easily bend the diff.

Thanks guys, good to hear it should fit

Anyone care to share these tricks to swap the centres?

What part needs to be "spread"? I've changed plenty of diff centres before in suzuki sierras and toyota landcruisers and there was no trick to them, just pull axels out and pull centre out. Whats different about these ford diffs?

Ideally the housing itself needs to be spread. There are holts on either side of the center (just before the axel tubes) where the housing spreader grabs. And yeah your right, not all diffs work that way but lots do. If you dont have a spreader you need brute force, but if you get everything in the right spot and lever the center the right way its pops out quite easy (well the 3 or 4 ive done have anyway). Will be easier if I take some pics to show how I do it. Ill post them up tomorrow.

Isn't the EB a 25 spline axle?

I know you won't need the spreader for the EL wagon, I've pulled apart quite a few EF/EL's and never needed to spread the case.

and as a general rule, use the shims that are in the diff.
replace the centre at will as BTR made the hemispheres (in theory) the same.

and if it turns out noisey hop along to the diff shop :P

eb series 2 will be 28 spline (28 splines started filtering in the ea2's).

All the falcon borg warner diffs "need" diff spreaders. However some are loose and will basically fall out and some are f**k tight and will need lots of force.

yeah, pics are always good

First crack the pinion nut. The easiest way by far Ive found to do this is to get some 1" square tube, drill 2 holes with the same spacing as the flange and use that to stop the center from turning when you undo the nut.



If the diff is still in the car and your lucky you might be able to just use the handbrake to hold the axels while you crack the nut. Once the nut is cracked, remove the axels and diff cover plate. The parts inside a falcon diff (you probably know all this):


(there is no pinion in this housing but that doesn’t make any difference)



I back off the bearing cap bolts but leave the caps on (stop the center falling out). Not also the 'lever point' on the center.



Rotate the center so the lever point is roughly as shown here. Put a 1/2 inch ratchet or breaker bar between the housing and the ring gear bolts and rotate center until it locks. Use then lever the center from the lever point.




Once the center is just about free, remove the bearing caps and pull the center out.



You will then have the housing with just the pinion in it



Unscrew the pinion nut and knock the flange off the pinion gear shaft (use wood and hammer). Then knock the pinion back into the diff. Have to support the pinion while you do this as if it drops it will hit the housing.



Push the new pinion in, slide the flange on and use the pinion nut to pull it all the way on.

Carefully sit the new center in the housing (careful about hitting the pinion and ring gears together).



Slide a shim into one side and push the center and bearings over to pack it in. The next picture shows how I get the other shim in. It didn’t come out well, but I do is slide a flat head screwdriver down between the housing and the bearing cap. Use your thumb as a lever to apply pressure pushing the bearing together while pushing down on the shim with the palm of your hand. Give the screwdriver a few hits with your other hand while pressing down on the shim hard. Once the shim has cleared the little cutout in the housing (you'll see what I mean) use a piece of wood and hammer to tap the shim in all the way.




put the caps back on and tighten them and the pinion nuts to torque specs, put the housing cover and axels back in etc, etc.

I think that’s just about it. If the housing is loose the whole thing is really easy. If its tight it just requires lots of force.

that is awesome.. I vote that post be put as a sticky in the doco section.
Cheers heaps for that.

your just full on info stockstandard! always informative and interesting posts

Nice job done there easy to follow.

If I could add, when you have the pinion out, the flange can be a b**ch to put on and take off especially when setting backlash. If you have the time and patience get some valve grinding paste and continually put the flange on and take off until it comes off without hassles (use a press if you can). took me an hour to do it and saves the frustration of knocking it off every time.