|
| StevenBruzz |
|
|||
|
i know how to swap out the gearbox (Auto) i was just wondering if any had any easier ways to undo the top bolts on the gearbox and engine id prefer not to take the engine out incase anyone was thinking that as i have no acces to a engine crane and want it done quick as possible, at the moment i have the idea of putting the car on ramps and undoing all the bolts i can letting the gearbox drop down and using alot of extension bars to get to the top bolts any ideas will be greatly appreciated
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Mad2 |
|
|||
|
a few people have mentioned dropping the gearbox mount down so ya get more room for the top bolts ... me i'd have the a*** raised so there's room ta drop the box mount down plus have room ta slide ya box out
 i have a few cars to wreck so i think i'll be pullin both out in one hit |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| StevenBruzz |
|
|||
|
yeah no real way to raise the rear but il have enough on ramps had no worrys on the 2 stockies high on the chasis
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| cjh |
|
|||
|
Yep.....unbolt the exhaust, as well as dropping the g'box crossmember.....it lets the engine tilt even further so you can use a long extension, an impact type uni with an impact socket....works a charm.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| MAD |
|
|||
|
cjh wrote: Yep.....unbolt the exhaust, as well as dropping the g'box crossmember.....it lets the engine tilt even further so you can use a long extension, an impact type uni with an impact socket....works a charm. This ^^I put the car up on stands all round so the box can be dropped square. It's a pain having the car on an angle when trying to lift the replacement box back in and line it up. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| phongus |
|
|||
|
As said before, car off the ground from all 4s is best and make sure it is high enough for you to slide it out! To add to that, undo the top bolts FIRST and then do the bottom ones, or else the top bolts may be harder to remove due to more pressure applied to them by engine/transmission trying to split apart. I used 4 x 1/2" drive extension bolts, a T-bar and a 1m steel pole on the end of the T-bar to make ease of the job...don't have a rattle gun
_________________ phongus = Post whore 2006 |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| StevenBruzz |
|
|||
|
Im lucky i got a rattle gun
 but yea will try get top ones first might even try unbolt the bellhousing so only it is bolted on
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| StevenBruzz |
|
|||
|
Bellhousing boltes from inside so thats no go
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Mad2 |
|
|||
|
StevenBruzz wrote: Bellhousing boltes from inside so thats no go  ya missing the main part mate .... ya gotta UNDO the bellhousing from the motor 1ST!! |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| StevenBruzz |
|
|||
|
Yeah thats exactly what i had said i wasnt sure how they bolted om but i checked today on the new one and noticed so i posted that you cant do that
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Mad2 |
|
|||
|
on a auto ... 1st to undo IS the bellhousing from the mota! ... then afta pulling ya auto off .. remove ya converter......
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| cjh |
|
|||
|
Undo the 4 torque converter bolts and push the converter back, BEFORE undoing the bellhousing bolts, and remove the starter motor......and YES, undo the top ones first, then the next ones down., then the absolute bottom ones, then the middle ones.
_________________ http://youtu.be/jJTh9F3Vgg0 |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 37 guests |
