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EF Auto gearbox replacement. Advice please 

 

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 Post subject: EF Auto gearbox replacement. Advice please
Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 8:01 am 
Oompa Loompa
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Age: 42

Posts: 48

Joined: 17th Mar 2008

Ride: XY Sedan, XB Coupe, EF Ghia

Location: Perth
WA, Australia

I plan on doing a gearbox swap (auto) on my EF Ghia this weekend. I'm replacing it with an EB auto box. I spoke to a mechanic at a party a few weeks ago and asked him for any advice. I would like some opinions on what he said.

1. He told me I would have to remove the engine mounts, let the engine sit with the sump on the K frame, tipped back against the firewall. Otherwise I would be unable to access the top bell housing bolts of the gearbox to the engine.
I don't like this as I really didn't want to touch the engine.

2. He told me to unbolt the torque converter from the flex-plate and start the engine. This is because apparently it is often difficult to separate the engine from the gearbox as something becomes stuck, and this helps loosen it. (Sorry, cant remember what it was that he said gets stuck).
I have never heard of this before, and sounds like a good way to damage something to me.

Thanks guys,
Chris
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 Post subject: Re: EF Auto gearbox replacement. Advice please
Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 8:32 am 
Smokin em up
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Age: 52

Posts: 253

Joined: 22nd Mar 2008

Ride: BF F6 Typhoon. XP Van.XF Hearse

Location: Newcastle
NSW, Australia

Hoffa wrote:
I plan on doing a gearbox swap (auto) on my EF Ghia this weekend. I'm replacing it with an EB auto box. I spoke to a mechanic at a party a few weeks ago and asked him for any advice. I would like some opinions on what he said.

1. He told me I would have to remove the engine mounts, let the engine sit with the sump on the K frame, tipped back against the firewall. Otherwise I would be unable to access the top bell housing bolts of the gearbox to the engine.
I don't like this as I really didn't want to touch the engine.

2. He told me to unbolt the torque converter from the flex-plate and start the engine. This is because apparently it is often difficult to separate the engine from the gearbox as something becomes stuck, and this helps loosen it. (Sorry, cant remember what it was that he said gets stuck).
I have never heard of this before, and sounds like a good way to damage something to me.

Thanks guys,
Chris


It sounds like your mechanic doesn't know what he is doing.

If you drop the trans crossmember, There is enough room to get a 3/8 drive 19mm socket with a uni joint & long extension bar to get the bellhousing bolts out.

If you undo the convertor bolts & start the engine and the convertor remains stationary, It can heat seize & weld the convertor spigot into the back of the crankshaft - then you will have real trouble!

I reckon the hardest thing pulling out a BTR is undoing the tailshaft bolts with all the Loctite that they used from factory + the top starter motor bolt.
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 Post subject: Re: EF Auto gearbox replacement. Advice please
Posted: Fri Mar 27, 2009 9:05 am 
Oompa Loompa
Offline

Age: 42

Posts: 48

Joined: 17th Mar 2008

Ride: XY Sedan, XB Coupe, EF Ghia

Location: Perth
WA, Australia

xpvanman wrote:
Hoffa wrote:
I plan on doing a gearbox swap (auto) on my EF Ghia this weekend. I'm replacing it with an EB auto box. I spoke to a mechanic at a party a few weeks ago and asked him for any advice. I would like some opinions on what he said.

1. He told me I would have to remove the engine mounts, let the engine sit with the sump on the K frame, tipped back against the firewall. Otherwise I would be unable to access the top bell housing bolts of the gearbox to the engine.
I don't like this as I really didn't want to touch the engine.

2. He told me to unbolt the torque converter from the flex-plate and start the engine. This is because apparently it is often difficult to separate the engine from the gearbox as something becomes stuck, and this helps loosen it. (Sorry, cant remember what it was that he said gets stuck).
I have never heard of this before, and sounds like a good way to damage something to me.

Thanks guys,
Chris


It sounds like your mechanic doesn't know what he is doing.

If you drop the trans crossmember, There is enough room to get a 3/8 drive 19mm socket with a uni joint & long extension bar to get the bellhousing bolts out.

If you undo the convertor bolts & start the engine and the convertor remains stationary, It can heat seize & weld the convertor spigot into the back of the crankshaft - then you will have real trouble!

I reckon the hardest thing pulling out a BTR is undoing the tailshaft bolts with all the Loctite that they used from factory + the top starter motor bolt.


Awesome, thanks mate!
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