Fordmods Logo

Heavy Duty Xtreme Clutch 


Page 1 of 1 [ 3 posts ] 

 Post subject: Heavy Duty Xtreme Clutch
Posted: Tue Nov 24, 2009 8:50 pm 
Smokin em up

Posts: 205

Joined: 8th Nov 2004

Location: geelong
VIC, Australia

Just wondering what people are paying for one of these clutch kits?. Where you got them from and so on.

I looked at a standard clutch and they were not that cheap anyway and have heard people say good things about this clutch.

So figured I might as well spend a little more and get one of these kits

This is the part number of the one im looking at KFD26001HD

Any advise and info would be awesome
 Post subject: Re: Heavy Duty Xtreme Clutch
Posted: Wed Nov 25, 2009 2:21 pm 
NSW Cruise Moderator
User avatar

Age: 40

Posts: 7331

Joined: 5th Nov 2004

Gallery: 12 images

Ride: TE50

Location: ɹǝpun uʍop
NSW, Australia

The exeedy clutch is a good thing, has a nice solid D tent in the travel on engage/disengage. handles power well, nice and easy to fit, with all the required bits included.

Feels nore linear and predictable than the standard ford replacements too.




I have a car.

 Post subject: Re: Heavy Duty Xtreme Clutch
Posted: Mon Dec 07, 2009 9:41 pm 
Getting Side Ways

Age: 51

Posts: 912

Joined: 22nd Mar 2005

Gallery: 1 images

Location: FNQ
QLD, Australia

When I did my ED Auto to Manual conversion I got all the gear as a "kit" - the clutch that came with it was an Extreme Clutches HD unit - I can't say whether the part number was the one you quoted tho.

I used a Mal Wood Clutch Pedal Pin to the existing pedal box (fitted a manual Brake Pedal rather than cutting the Auto one down).

The clutch itself worked fine BUT it was very heavy which eventually cracked the pedal box then busted out the cable spiggot in the firewall, and also I had the cable clip at the top of the clutch pedal crack and spread open enough that the swaged ball on the end of the cable popped out.

The stroke of the clutch was very short as well - ie. from fully engaged to disengaged was about 2inches of PEDAL travel.

To lengthen the stroke and make the pedal effort lighter I removed the cable attachment pin off the pedal arm, filled in the hole and redrilled another hole about 14mm (hole centre to hole centre) closer toward the pedal pivot - this pretty much meant the new hole for the pin was right next to the old hole. It wasn't much of a physical change but totally transformed the feel of the pedal - it's stroke became pretty much normal and the weight became better tho still significantly more than a std clutch - to operate, it felt more like I was bending something than actually making a pedal stroke if that makes sense?

I no longer have the car and had it with that clutch for about 5 years - but in hindsight I totally regret not getting rid of that clutch immediately.

IMO you need to verify with Extreme Clutches whether the stroke and weight of that clutch you're looking at will be much different to std and think carefully about using it if they indicate the stroke will be shorter and/or heavier.



96 EF Auto GLi - Bilstein Shocks - Adjustable Front sway bar - JMM Cam - TI Perf J3 - TCI 2500/3000 stall converter. 2015 Jeep Cherokee Trailhawk.

Display posts from previous:
Sort by  
 Page 1 of 1  [ 3 posts ] 

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 6 guests

You cannot post new topics in this forum
You cannot reply to topics in this forum
You cannot edit your posts in this forum
You cannot delete your posts in this forum
You cannot post attachments in this forum



It is currently Tue May 22, 2018 2:34 am All times are UTC + 11 hours



(c)2014 Total Web Solutions Australia - Australian Web Hosting and Domain Names