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How do i fix these - Brake stuff 

 

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 Post subject: How do i fix these - Brake stuff
Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 4:34 pm 
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hey guys

ok, long story short, standard rear brakes, fronts are DBA slots with EBC Greenstuffs. REAAAALLLY loooooong pedal, (about an inch from the floor)

Cylinder seems ok (no leaks, doesnt slowly slide to floor if held). Rang a brake shop and suggested the following:

1 - The clip on the outside of the brake pads must be in the groove. If they are not, pads are sorta wonky and you lose at least half of your pedal

2 - The hub seals are not on properly

Guys, and girls, bacisally how do i check these things? Im sorta a bit nervous fidding with my braking equipment, but at the same time, do not trust my current system at all. Its been bled many times correctly, that is fine.

Its a 95 EF Falcon with ABS

thanks
--luke

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 4:40 pm 
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ABS :shock: :shock: :shock: dont fcuk with it yourself,too dangerous

vik...your gunna have to fork out for this one :x :x :x

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 4:46 pm 
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hmm, i had/have a very similar problem. i started a thread a while ago and it was suggested i disconnect the plastic brake fail switch on the master cylinder.

you then give the brake pedal and few good pumps, and reconnect the switch. by doing this it apparantly resets some valve, and returns the pedal to the correct height/feel

it didnt work for me as it turned out i had a leaking master cylinder (god knows how i missed that!) but worth a crack if you've checked all your seals etc

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 4:58 pm 
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Quote:
1 - The clip on the outside of the brake pads must be in the groove. If they are not, pads are sorta wonky and you lose at least half of your pedal

2 - The hub seals are not on properly




Both of these sound like crap too me!

This distance your pedal is travelling relates to how far you are compressing the fluid to get the pads to squeeze onto the disc. Now Brake fluid doesn't compress easily, so it is more likely you have a leak or air in the system (air compresses quite well)

I don't see how a pad could be put in crooked. Or for that matter how it being crooked could affect the pedal travel.

The hub seals are on the back of the rotor, and are solely there to keep the bearing grease where it is. If the hub seals arn't on properly the only thing thats going to happen is the grease will leak out or dirt will get in.

 

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Last edited by madmax on Wed Oct 11, 2006 9:22 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 7:16 pm 
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thanks guys for your replies,

mash - yeah i was reading your thread earlier today (search does work for some things) but you never really got any resolve. thats when i decided to ring the brake shop. he told me that i should clamp up the fronts and then check the pressure. if still bad then i know its master cyclinder/booster related. if its fantastic, then i can unclamp one front at a time and isolate the problem. - might look at that on the weekend

madmax - i tend to agree. i have a feeling (a bad feeling) its got something to do with not enough pressure being created (so that means booster/master cylinder which means $$$$), not how this pressure is being applied to the rotors

alternatively, i should just take it to a brake shop, as said earlier, its abs, ill prolly just stuff something up, then be posting here how to get rid of flashing ABS dash lights......

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 7:32 pm 
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it didnt work, coz i had a leaking master cylinder, if i were you, id give it a whirl, takes all of 5 seconds, sure beats the hell out of jacking up the front and taking off wheels.

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 9:04 pm 
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the only reason mash had a stuffed master cylinder is when he bleed it he
pushed the pedal right to the floor

causing the seals to be torn as they were pushed to far into the bore
so be careful when you bleed your brakes guys otherwise this might happen to you
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Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 9:57 pm 
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Brett 4777 wrote:
the only reason mash had a stuffed master cylinder is when he bleed it he
pushed the pedal right to the floor

causing the seals to be torn as they were pushed to far into the bore
so be careful when you bleed your brakes guys otherwise this might happen to you


for a first effort it was pretty good! not like my brakes are still stuffed! oh wait, yes they are...

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 10:10 pm 
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its dissapointing cos i am struggling to trust it if i needed them

it does pull up hard when theyre hot, and if u push the bastard to the floor.....but it shouldnt have to be this way.....

 

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Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 10:42 pm 
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i wasnt having a shot at you Mash
just warning others not to do the same
and go through the dramas you were having
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Posted: Wed Oct 11, 2006 11:18 pm 
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Won't be booster from my experience that won't change travel of pedal just how hard it is to push,
how old is your brake fluid? and is it the right spec?i.e Dot 4 or 5?
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Posted: Thu Oct 12, 2006 12:53 am 
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brake fluid wouldnt be 5000kms yet, yes is dot 4. what ever the book says

have used same fluid in brothers EL, his is sweet. i think some of those seals may have popped when some clown did the bleed.

any outwards signs of these seals being busted? it isnt leaking from anywhere, fluid level never goes down

 

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Posted: Thu Oct 12, 2006 11:45 am 
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how good are your pads?

who did the brake bleed? might be worth doing again.

 

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Posted: Fri Oct 13, 2006 2:09 pm 
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i messed with my rear brakes turne dinto a disaster on the back of a truck and to the mechanics she went.

 

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Posted: Thu Nov 30, 2006 8:28 pm 
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did you find out what the problem was? reckon you have air in your brake lines, (you can compress air - which is why the pedal goes right down) flush it again with a bleeder kit, they help a fair bit mate.

 

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