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| Mad2 |
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i'm using the factory manual unit & i think 89SVO is too [?]
talk ta 67RCE about his |
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| fezlane |
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Age: 57 Posts: 434 Joined: 18th Jul 2009 Ride: NL FAIRLANE BA TURBO POWERED Location: ballarat |
I have just used the mal wood pin nice and easy. Still need to reinforce firewall though.
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| 89.SVO |
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Age: 34 Posts: 3379 Joined: 11th Mar 2008 Ride: EA SVO, AU2, Toyota Crown Location: Bendigo |
pulling the dash out is hardly a hard job to do. It's an E series. they are like 5 screws and 4 bolts lol
_________________ Daily driver: 2010 Toyota Crown hybrid 3.5L V6 hybrid. 254kw. |
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| Mad2 |
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89.SVO wrote: pulling the dash out is hardly a hard job to do. It's an E series. they are like 5 screws and 4 bolts lol then how did i end up with 1 screw ova?? lol |
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| 89.SVO |
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Age: 34 Posts: 3379 Joined: 11th Mar 2008 Ride: EA SVO, AU2, Toyota Crown Location: Bendigo |
Mad2 wrote: 89.SVO wrote: pulling the dash out is hardly a hard job to do. It's an E series. they are like 5 screws and 4 bolts lol then how did i end up with 1 screw ova?? lol hence why I said "like". It was a guesstimate. Been a few years since I've done one
_________________ Daily driver: 2010 Toyota Crown hybrid 3.5L V6 hybrid. 254kw. |
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| Mad2 |
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first time i did one i had one screw left ova ..... dunno where it came from lol
  i have about 6 to pull out with two of em replacement dashes 
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| ford-racer46 |
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So use haven't had issues pulling out dashes before?
_________________ Now, I've got a message for all the other drivers out there. If you smell a delicious, crispy smell after the race, it's not your tailpipe. It's just a little of Shake...and Bake! |
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| 89.SVO |
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Age: 34 Posts: 3379 Joined: 11th Mar 2008 Ride: EA SVO, AU2, Toyota Crown Location: Bendigo |
ford-racer46 wrote: So use haven't had issues pulling out dashes before? nope
_________________ Daily driver: 2010 Toyota Crown hybrid 3.5L V6 hybrid. 254kw. |
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| Mad2 |
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89.SVO wrote: ford-racer46 wrote: So use haven't had issues pulling out dashes before? nope like he said nope other than a screw left ova as its ya 1st time ... take ya time & make sure all is unplugged/unscrewed etc before ya reef it out |
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| fezlane |
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Age: 57 Posts: 434 Joined: 18th Jul 2009 Ride: NL FAIRLANE BA TURBO POWERED Location: ballarat |
and don't forget the earth wire!!!!!!!
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| 89.SVO |
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Age: 34 Posts: 3379 Joined: 11th Mar 2008 Ride: EA SVO, AU2, Toyota Crown Location: Bendigo |
fezlane wrote: and don't forget the earth wire!!!!!!! ^this
_________________ Daily driver: 2010 Toyota Crown hybrid 3.5L V6 hybrid. 254kw. |
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| evxr6 |
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Here's how I did it:
evxr6 wrote: bry40l wrote: did you use an original clutch pedal box or a mal wood clutch pedal? Nope, used the original and the best. Here's how I did it: First disconnect the negative terminal of the battery. Then, remove the centre console:  Then remove the shroud from the steering column, undo the 2 nuts securing the steering column to the dash. Lower it to the floor.  Remove the 2 screws from the top of the radio surround and remove the surround:  Remove the handbrake trim panel and undo the nuts securing the handbrake bracket to the car and firewall. Lower handbrake to the floor:  Remove the sill panels and kick panels from the left and right hand sides:  Undo the screw securing the bonnet release cable to the dash. Withdraw rearwards and lower to the floor:  Undo the screws on the glovebox hinges. Remove glovebox from the car.  Working through the glovebox hole, disconnect the heater selector cable:  Undo the 2 allen screws from the dashboard extension panel and remove from the car:  Well, so it turns out my car was optioned with premium sound:  Disconnect the wiring for the tweeters (if fitted) and the dashboard earth wire. Undo the lower dash bolts and then get an assistant to help you with the next bit. Undo the top dash screws. Then, you should be able to pull the dash forward enough to suitably mark all of the wiring plugs and then disconnect them. You should then be able to swing the dash across and rest it on the driver's seat. Undo the 5 nuts securing the pedal box to the firewall and brake booster. Remove the split pin from the brake pedal and slip the brake booster pushrod off the brake pedal. Then remove the 3 nuts holding the top of the pedal box to the firewall:  Then you should be able to take the blasted thing out. Look mum, no brakes!  Here are the auto and manual pedal boxes side by side:  Refitting is a reverse of the removal. Or so they say. I had to "Get Custom" with a hammer to bend the top flange forward so it would fit. And there you are. Three pedals:  I hope it goes back together easily. Thanks, Evan.
_________________ Current ride: MY03 Liberty RX Wagon |
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| 89.SVO |
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Age: 34 Posts: 3379 Joined: 11th Mar 2008 Ride: EA SVO, AU2, Toyota Crown Location: Bendigo |
evxr6 wrote: Here's how I did it: evxr6 wrote: bry40l wrote: did you use an original clutch pedal box or a mal wood clutch pedal? Nope, used the original and the best. Here's how I did it: First disconnect the negative terminal of the battery. Then, remove the centre console: Then remove the shroud from the steering column, undo the 2 nuts securing the steering column to the dash. Lower it to the floor. Remove the 2 screws from the top of the radio surround and remove the surround: Remove the handbrake trim panel and undo the nuts securing the handbrake bracket to the car and firewall. Lower handbrake to the floor: Remove the sill panels and kick panels from the left and right hand sides: Undo the screw securing the bonnet release cable to the dash. Withdraw rearwards and lower to the floor: Undo the screws on the glovebox hinges. Remove glovebox from the car. Working through the glovebox hole, disconnect the heater selector cable: Undo the 2 allen screws from the dashboard extension panel and remove from the car: Well, so it turns out my car was optioned with premium sound: Disconnect the wiring for the tweeters (if fitted) and the dashboard earth wire. Undo the lower dash bolts and then get an assistant to help you with the next bit. Undo the top dash screws. Then, you should be able to pull the dash forward enough to suitably mark all of the wiring plugs and then disconnect them. You should then be able to swing the dash across and rest it on the driver's seat. Undo the 5 nuts securing the pedal box to the firewall and brake booster. Remove the split pin from the brake pedal and slip the brake booster pushrod off the brake pedal. Then remove the 3 nuts holding the top of the pedal box to the firewall: Then you should be able to take the blasted thing out. Look mum, no brakes! Here are the auto and manual pedal boxes side by side: Refitting is a reverse of the removal. Or so they say. I had to "Get Custom" with a hammer to bend the top flange forward so it would fit. And there you are. Three pedals: I hope it goes back together easily. Thanks, Evan. I didn't even unplug the dash, or the heater cable. Just sat the dash on the front seats, and manouvered the pedal box out
_________________ Daily driver: 2010 Toyota Crown hybrid 3.5L V6 hybrid. 254kw. |
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| Mad2 |
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evxr6 wrote: Here's how I did it: Remove the 2 screws from the top of the radio surround and remove the surround: think there are two screw at the base here [below the radio] that need ta be removed? |
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| GeZza200 |
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Haha the original pedal box isn't the "best" its s**t, that's why everyone one you see with a heavier clutch the box is shagged. Use the Malwood pin or reinforce the original one.
_________________ EL Futura: CVE head, Wolf V500, ICE Ignition and Coil, 36lb injectors, Walbro 255lb, Paci comps, 3" exhaust, T5, Harrop Truetrac with 3.9s. Now with 198.9rwkw, (~185rwkw and 13.80 @99.1mph) with more power to come |
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