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Manual conversion. 

 

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 Post subject: Manual conversion.
Posted: Sat Apr 05, 2008 6:23 pm 
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So i've got Voxace's guide, read the other threads on there. just a few points i want to clear up.

1st - Got my resistors from d**k Smith. their labelled as 1k2 and 6k8. Ive assumed these are 1.2k and 6.8k Their bands are

Blue Gray Red
Brown Red Red


2nd - In the photos there is a spring between the clutch pedal and the floor? Does this attach to the floor somewhere or is there a bracket that comes off the pedal box?

Also - i don't have this spring - does it need to be this specific spring? or can it just be a generic spring to give a little bit of tension.


3rd - I have a manual tailshaft. Is there a specific orientation of the shaft when i bolt it up to the diff flange?

4th - How essential are new flywheel bolts? I've got the old ones - should they be fine?


I have to go out and pick up a spigot bearing and a clutch cable at some point also - alas ford/cov's are closed so might have to try get one from a parts store unless i want to goto ford Monday morning...

To finish off a random question

Pronunciation of spigot...

Spig - ot
Spi - got


Oh, one more thought - when inserting the manual box into the bellhousing - is there enough room to leave the shifter handle on? or take it off?

 

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 Post subject: Re: Manual conversion.
Posted: Sat Apr 05, 2008 8:31 pm 
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1st - Got my resistors from d**k Smith. their labelled as 1k2 and 6k8. Ive assumed these are 1.2k and 6.8k Their bands areBlue Gray Red Brown Red Red
They'll be fine

2nd - In the photos there is a spring between the clutch pedal and the floor? Does this attach to the floor somewhere or is there a bracket that comes off the pedal box?
Goes to the floor

Also - i don't have this spring - does it need to be this specific spring? or can it just be a generic spring to give a little bit of tension.
Just keeps tension on the cable, stops rattles, etc. Falcon's run zero clearance between the TO bearing and pressure plate.

3rd - I have a manual tailshaft. Is there a specific orientation of the shaft when i bolt it up to the diff flange?
Not really, if you use the original shaft, you should mark it's orientation before removing it.

4th - How essential are new flywheel bolts? I've got the old ones - should they be fine?
If they're the crank ones, you can use your auto ones (driveplate to crank) With any spinning items, I'd use Loctite 262 on them before fitting.
I have to go out and pick up a spigot bearing and a clutch cable at some point also - alas ford/cov's are closed so might have to try get one from a parts store unless i want to goto ford Monday morning...
If it's a an I6, there are two part nos for the cables, an earlier E series type will fit, it is longer, but the inner cable travel is the same.

Oh, one more thought - when inserting the manual box into the bellhousing - is there enough room to leave the shifter handle on? or take it off?
Take off and leave the internal shifter intact.

 

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Posted: Sat Apr 05, 2008 9:01 pm 
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Cheers snap. As usual right to the point.

So with the spring i can just find any spring really and put it there? as long as it just puts light tension on the cable but not enough to move the pedal?

 

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Posted: Sat Apr 05, 2008 9:56 pm 
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NP Gaz. I suppose for peace of mind, see if Fraud's still have them (I would think so).

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 3:35 am 
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Just a few more questions. Having to source myself a flywheel now - not happy :x

The v8 ones are different yes?
The price on a new flywheel would not be cheap I imagine if it comes to that?


The throw out bearing is the one that sits on the clutch fork? Some people say to replace, others not. If it looks fine, spins ok, no grinding or sideways movement should it be ok?


Lastly thought I'd check about the clutch, obviously its 2nd hand - id like to avoid replacing it if I can at this stage - It looks alright, but is there a minimum thickness or something which can determine how much life is in it?

I haven't driven a manual since i did my driving test 5 years ago so the clutch may get a belting :oops:

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 7:46 am 
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snap0964 wrote:
NP Gaz. I suppose for peace of mind, see if Fraud's still have them (I would think so).


the clutch pedal spring is unavailable for the e seires so get an AU one they are 4.80 about 5 dollars give or take GST and the AU is similair if not the same to ED one.

(know from experiance about this 6 months ago got an EB spring, my fathers one broke and went to get another one N/A, so i said AU one (guessing) and they looked very the same)

 

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Posted: Mon Apr 07, 2008 10:09 pm 
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The v8 ones are different yes?
Yes
The price on a new flywheel would not be cheap I imagine if it comes to that?
Go a 2nd hand one - get it machined.

The throw out bearing is the one that sits on the clutch fork? Some people say to replace, others not. If it looks fine, spins ok, no grinding or sideways movement should it be ok?
Always go new

Lastly thought I'd check about the clutch, obviously its 2nd hand - id like to avoid replacing it if I can at this stage - It looks alright, but is there a minimum thickness or something which can determine how much life is in it?
Since it takes a fair bit of labour for all of this, I would go a new clutch kit, new spigot, new cable, etc. This includes doing the incidentals like rear main seal/rear welch plug. You can never really tell how good 2nd hand gear is till you fit it - read all the posts on here on others who've come unstuck with this later on. Spend the $$$ upfront - you'll be glad you did.

Same with the gearbox - strip it down and check the internals, replace seals, etc. Even the gregory's manuals give a good guide on this.

A big thing is to research and plan out what you'll be doing.


I haven't driven a manual since i did my driving test 5 years ago so the clutch may get a belting
So practise.

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 2:05 am 
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Cheers again snap.

I've picked up my new spigot and clutch cable today.

I asked for a spigot for an ef 6 cyl and i got this one. It looks a little different to the ones i have seen and the one in voxace's guide.

it seems the rollers bearings sit inside directly on the input shaft. the dark bit in the middle doesn't spin just the rollers on the inside that you can just see - it also has the indent in one face - the other is flat. Should i assume the flat face goes outwards towards the clutch?



On a side note - absolutely no friggin luck finding a 6 bolt flywheel :x rang at least 10 wreckers - one said yes, alas it turned out to be a EA one and at the price they were charging for it by the time you add machining and re drilling it i think i could almost get a new one. So i am attempting to get an 'employee' pricing on a new flywheel. We will see what the damage is.

 

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 2:44 am 
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That spigot bearing is the same one as the one I got, so I can safely say it is the right one. So to answer you question, yes the flat face faces away from the crank and towards the clutch. The indented side goes into the crank. It fits one way anyway. When you lightly hammer the spigot bearing in, use a socket that fits around the inner ring and sits on the flat surface. That way you know it'll go in without any damage to the spigot bearing surface.

With the flywheel, have you checked on ebay to see if any online wreckers might have one? If not try trading post maybe. If all fails, a brand spanker would be a good thing.

If you don't plan on pulling the transmission out anytime soon, I'd say get a whole new clutch kit. I got an Xtreme clutch kit from Hightek Brakes for $395 incl. postage (though I am in Vic...so postage may be more for you). Comes with new clutch housing, pressure plate and new throw out bearing.

As snap mentioned...try to replace and change everything while the thing is out. I've taken mine out twice and that was annoying as it was lol. Do it once and do it right, that way you don't have to worry about it anytime soon.

phong =P~

 

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Posted: Tue Apr 08, 2008 11:01 am 
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Yeah, looks similar to the factory item - adaptor with bearing cage inside.

The one I got from autopro was your everyday sealing ball bearing race - works just as good.

Funnily enough, I managed to get a 6 bolt flywheel locally for $66 - surprised me somewhat.

There's a wide range of clutches available - for your needs something heavy duty with a reasonably light feel should surfice.
The factory clutch setup will work fine - my 12yr old XH will attest to that - still all original components.
The system comes unstuck when extra heavy duty clutches, etc are fitted.
Check you cable annually, as they can bind up over time.

 

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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 6:53 pm 
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Hey guys...

are AU flywheels the same?

I got one from Cov's and the part number on the box is

AU2 6375A - which leads me to believe its an AU one?


the old pressure plate i have here doesn't line up. the dowels line up, but the bolt holes are about 1mm out.

Did ford change it by this much? or is it more likely that my old pressure plate is warped?

On the back of the box it looks as if someone has scribbled 'wont fit' on it. :?

 

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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 8:16 pm 
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As far as the numbers go, the parts guys on here may be able to help you.
I'd be expecting an EBII-EL flywheel to be something like 91DA-xxxxx-xx.

They'd be able to say same with the pressure plate - probably similar number as above.
You can also have a look at the clutch kits on ebay, and see if AU's are included in the description of an E series kit.
I'd suspect they are different.

 

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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 8:42 pm 
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Well, my mind is partially at ease now..

I have looked at the exedy website for the AU and the EF/EL clutch

E-series - http://www.exedy.com.au/catalogue-detai ... d=38998026

AU - http://www.exedy.com.au/catalogue-detai ... d=38998028


The clutch kit numbers etc are the same, so i will believe that the flywheel would be the same assuming the clutch kits are the same part number.



I guess that just leaves me at the 2nd hand pressure plate i have is warped slightly. The dowells are also about .5mm off going in smoothly so i guess thats consistent with the holes - Guess the pressure plate was bent when removing or was dropped at some stage.



Guess tomorrow is buy a new clutch kit day. I would assume all clutch kits should come with new throw out bearings?

Specially because repco quoted me 140 for a throw out bearing :shock:



I hate cars - a simple conversion starts to add up friggin quickly. Once i get the new clutch i think i will have easily double what i Planned to spend.



Oh and thanks again Snap - your a very patient and tolerant man :oops:

 

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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 8:57 pm 
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geez i dunno...... wouldve been easier to buy EA-EL parts instead of wondering if AU clutches/flywheels etc are gonna fit?

And the quote from repco for the bearing is insane lol.... they usually are included in the clutch kit. And a spigot bearing is only 8 bucks
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Posted: Wed Apr 09, 2008 9:05 pm 
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Yeh, ive got the spigot - was about 9 bucks.

I did buy ea-el parts. the box just had au2 on it so thought id check. It was ordered as ef/el so i assume its just the replaced part number.

 

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