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p****d OFF... Siezed brakes 

 

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 Post subject: p****d OFF... Siezed brakes
Posted: Fri Dec 02, 2005 7:32 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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At the start of the year my brake rotors warped in the front, i never bothered to fix it cause i was never financial enough, untill recently when it got worse...

Braking was becoming difficult, the car shook like a mofo and there was a thud noise every time the rotor spun.

So i takes it to brake care today, the guy takes off the wheels and looks at the brakes, seems the front brakes are siezed up and perma on, not much just a little bit, but enough to put a 1.5 inch crack in the front passenger rotor, and tens of stress - heat cracks all thru the rest of the rotors. The rear rotors are down to about 20% so theyll have to be fixed soon too.

But at $620 a f**k pop they can wait. $620 got me front premium performance brakes ($160 for 2) front caliper recondition, all new and reco everything, 2 new front slotted rotors ($98ea) and rear cheapie brake pads ($60 for 2).

That takes the grand total to $4k in just over 1 year that ive spent fixing... i coulda f**k turboed the s**t thing for that much...

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 02, 2005 7:59 pm 
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ahh the joys of owning a car.....

 

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Posted: Fri Dec 02, 2005 8:06 pm 
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mate buy a socket set and some tools, and start fixing your own car, no mechanic has touched any of my vehicles in the last 20 years!!!

The procedure you described would have cost a lot less and would have taken a saturday arvo to complete....
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Posted: Fri Dec 02, 2005 8:54 pm 
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xb-coupe-351 wrote:
mate buy a socket set and some tools, and start fixing your own car, no mechanic has touched any of my vehicles in the last 20 years!!!

The procedure you described would have cost a lot less and would have taken a saturday arvo to complete....


I agree with this, that is why i am here.. if i got stuck i would ask around.. ficing my own car and of course this site has saved me a few grand.
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Posted: Sat Dec 03, 2005 9:08 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Yeah i got a mate who works at ford cranbourne, but he works 6 days a week, i usually work 7, i got a f**k pain in the a*** mum who acts like a f**k and tells me to get it done cause shes paranoid im going to die.

I told her i would do it myself but yknow what women/mothers are like. Altho im not exactly sure on how to reco a set of brakes.

Ah well they seem to work fine and i got 6 months to pay it off so im not overly fussed, just s**t me when i think of all the stuff i coulda done to the car with the $4k or so.

 

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 Post subject: Re: p****d OFF... Siezed brakes
Posted: Sat Dec 03, 2005 11:10 pm 
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byrneing wrote:
At the start of the year my brake rotors warped in the front, i never bothered to fix it cause i was never financial enough, untill recently when it got worse...

Braking was becoming difficult, the car shook like a mofo and there was a thud noise every time the rotor spun.

So i takes it to brake care today, the guy takes off the wheels and looks at the brakes, seems the front brakes are siezed up and perma on, not much just a little bit, but enough to put a 1.5 inch crack in the front passenger rotor, and tens of stress - heat cracks all thru the rest of the rotors. The rear rotors are down to about 20% so theyll have to be fixed soon too.

But at $620 a f**k pop they can wait. $620 got me front premium performance brakes ($160 for 2) front caliper recondition, all new and reco everything, 2 new front slotted rotors ($98ea) and rear cheapie brake pads ($60 for 2).

That takes the grand total to $4k in just over 1 year that ive spent fixing... i coulda f**k turboed the s**t thing for that much...
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Posted: Sun Dec 04, 2005 3:07 pm 
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your thinking of it the wrong way. your brakes s**t them selfs gave you an exuse to get better ones. Some thing you'll need if you want to make it go faster as well.

alot of people throw away perfectly good brakes to do just what you have done.

and $4000 would not even get close to a turbo setup

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2005 11:11 am 
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On my old car my front right rotor crack about halfway round the inner circle. I think the wheel bearing was the culprate, it was rooted and made aweful sounds. It was only when i wanted to change the bearing and could wobble the wheel when it was done up i took it to the mechanic.

Ben

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Posted: Tue Dec 06, 2005 11:37 am 
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Eeek, you really should learn the whole "rip and take apart and learn" yourself.

your goin to get ripped everywhere you go, very few decent mechanics out there.

you can get your calipers rebuilt cheaply ($30+) or second hand ones even, stock rotors are under $70, slotteds are $10-15 more!. pads $30-120 (120 for ebc green stuff)

really dude, you should just go spend the money your spending at mechanics on a few tool sets and do and try your best at is, what you dont know im sure a few members in your area could help your out or help you out on here!

you will never learn or understand till you give it a go
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Posted: Wed Dec 14, 2005 6:47 pm 
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wtf??? how much do turbo setups cost for ed's?

As i said Fuzion, annoying woman mother, sadly the same annoying woman mother who made me buy the s**t car. I got the zorst to take out and replace soon, if she thinks im takin that to a mechanic shes got another thing coming.

On the upside the brakes are bloody good, i aint gave em a real good stomp, but they stop quick enough. The upside too about getting them done at brakes plus, when the pads or rotors die, i get free ones, ofcourse theres conditions but theyre pretty easy to follow.

While i was waiting for the guys to do the brakes, i was looking in a commodore mag, and they had brake packages for $600... shoulda bought one of them.

 

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Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2006 8:01 am 
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Hi, there. My EF Fairmont is giving me similar problems. The front disc calipers won't release. I've tried lubing the guide pins and bleeding. It seems the piston doesn't return when the pedal is released. Any tips? (BTW, just got the Haynes manual. It's so-so, not as good as the one for my Sierra, tho')
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Posted: Mon Jan 02, 2006 8:44 am 
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Preggie wrote:
Hi, there. My EF Fairmont is giving me similar problems. The front disc calipers won't release. I've tried lubing the guide pins and bleeding. It seems the piston doesn't return when the pedal is released. Any tips? (BTW, just got the Haynes manual. It's so-so, not as good as the one for my Sierra, tho')


Sounds like your going to need to pull the caliper apart and service it. You can buy kits from most auto parts stores.

Once you have fully removed the caliper from the vehicle blow piston out with compressed air. Clean up all surfaces and replace all seals. Then re-assemble.

I had the same problem on my EA.

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 12:12 am 
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Followed your advice, madmax, replaced the oil seal, reassembled caliper, bled the brakes and.....it's still seized! I don't think it's the fexible hose as there is no pressure when the pedal is released (check via the bleeder nipple). There is some movement on the guide pins when I pump the pedal, but the pads still don't pull away from the discs. Help!
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Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 12:27 am 
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The pads always touch the disc! They dont pull away, but lightly touch. As long as you can spin the wheel when its off the ground with little resistance it will be fine!

 

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Posted: Wed Jan 04, 2006 12:34 am 
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That's the problem. On the left, I can just about turn the disc without pulling a muscle, and on the right, it won't move at all!
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