|
| willygrice |
|
||
|
Find a flat road you wont slip on and pick a point to stop as hard as you can from 100k's then estimate (im gonna step it out) how long your stopping distance was. Try to do it with cool pads (no prior hard braking). I am just wondering if my stopping distance is normal, better or worse than it is meant to be. Will do it 2moro and post results
_________________ I dont care how fast your car is, mine goes faster through the bush. |
||
| Top | |
||
| alfy |
|
|||
|
mine for the EA is around 45-50m i think
_________________ 2021 V6 Manual Amarok - 245kw/750nm - many goodies |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| willygrice |
|
||
|
is that all standard brakes? or something special?
_________________ I dont care how fast your car is, mine goes faster through the bush. |
||
| Top | |
||
| alfy |
|
|||
|
lol ok maybe 60m, i have standard brakes but there brand new and new tyres
_________________ 2021 V6 Manual Amarok - 245kw/750nm - many goodies |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| fiftyone |
|
|||
|
i have slotteds and el gt rims with rda standard pads. i'll have a crack next time i get a chance. do i get to use abs?
the idea is that brain needs to process the red light in front. come on to the brake, begin to brake, brake more when they relise they're in trouble, heat the pad and rotor and not break traction with the ground. plus, large open mags (esspesially in the wet) are a problem with brakes getting cold at highway speeds. i had el snowflakes with plastic liners in them and they'd cook the brakes something shocking! squeezed the pad so much it mushroomed over the pads!
_________________ ** For Sale ** http://www.fordmods.com/ford-parts-for-sale-f17/assorted-e-series-parts-t124697.html |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| willygrice |
|
||
|
fiftyone wrote: do i get to use abs?
how can you not use ABS? Im not testing reaction time, I know im slow, lol, just seeing if the car can compensate for that 
_________________ I dont care how fast your car is, mine goes faster through the bush. |
||
| Top | |
||
| data_mine |
|
|||
|
ABS will make your result worse.
Try to apply as much pressure as possible without ABS activating, you'll stop significantly sooner.
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| data_mine |
|
|||
|
Some times from my GT-P
0-60-0mph in 9.282s 0-100-0kph in 9.705s 60-0mph in 128.2ft 100-0kph in 41.92m 3.55s Times a different because 60mph isn't the same as 100kph (actually 62.1mph) As for ABS vs. Threshold Braking 
The green line, is a foot to the floor emergency brake. ABS kicks in and it is obvious where it does as the deceleration force, backs off several times. While the ABS is pulsing the brakes on and off, each time they're off you're NOT slowing down. So the distance travelled (and the time as seen on the graph) to stop in increased. The red line, is the same situation, but done with threshold braking*. Note at one point (about 18.5sec) I applied to much pressure and the ABS kicked in. Notice how it only takes 7.5 seconds to stop without ABS (no locked wheels either), but nearly another 4 seconds to stop with ABS. *threshold braking, using your foot to vary the brake pressure so that as much pressure as can be applied before wheels lock up. This is the most efficient way to stop, as you haven't locked a wheel so you can still steer away from danger, and ABS isn't pulsing the brakes off because you've applied to much brake pressure (and locked a wheel). Times taken from a G-Tech Pro RR, on a closed private road. I don't suggest testing your brakes on a public road.
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Gaz |
|
||
|
nice work datamine.
between you and stockstandard i don't think there isn't a graph you guys haven't produced 
_________________ 2007 Steel BF Ghia MKII V8 - 19" GTP's + Superlows |
||
| Top | |
||
| willygrice |
|
||
|
about 55m in the end so i am happy with that
_________________ I dont care how fast your car is, mine goes faster through the bush. |
||
| Top | |
||
| pauly_pizza |
|
||
|
ya nice work...
|
||
| Top | |
||
| dsheps83 |
|
|||
|
would wheel size affect stopping distance because of larger or smaller rolling diameter or its that insignificant that it wont make a difference
eg 20' mags with standed brakes oppose to 14" stock rims |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| data_mine |
|
|||
|
I'd say tyre size would be more important - actually the contact patch - how much thread is touching the road.
Another thing to think of is, brake cooling. Big open wheels will keep your brakes cooler - this will help fight fade and keep the fluid from boiling (= very bad), but may mean you're pads never get up to their best operating temperature. Or you're some ricer with 20" dinner plates with no air flow at all to the brakes, after one stop your brakes have faded severely.
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| willygrice |
|
||
|
how do i change from standard dot4 to silicone based fluid? and is it worth doing? Also what are good pads for a heavy breaker? Should I get Bendix (RRP130ish) for $70 or Ferodo Excel's for $31?
_________________ I dont care how fast your car is, mine goes faster through the bush. |
||
| Top | |
||
| data_mine |
|
|||
|
What kind bendix?
On my EL, I preferred Lucas brand 'green' pads.
_________________ 1998 DL LTD in Sparkling Burgundy, daily, 302W, stereo, slow |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 30 guests |
