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Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 8:20 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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TIKFORD wrote:
yeah the ground clearance is good so far, but im still waiting for the suspension to drop a bit more. but as long as im careful over speed humps i should be ok. i got the konis for $900, springs for $104 a pair, i also got new strut tops and rubbers to keep the new struts together for $85. being a mechanic i installed it all myself, which helped in keeping the cost down. might go get a wheel alignment in a week or so.


when i got my wheel alignment done. i got 1.3 degrees total camber and 2 degrees extra caster and found it to be very good for handling
i have bilstien shocks and dobinson springs 1.5 inch lower than ef XR6 springs

 

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 Post subject: Re: suspension upgrade
Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 8:42 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: au xr8 & 5.0 eb

Location: yarrawonga
VIC, Australia

unclewoja wrote:
Bassfreak55 wrote:
TIKFORD wrote:
i finally got around to lowering my el xr6 last weekend. put king super lows and koni adjustables (yellow) all round. AWESOME is the only way to describe how well it handles, ive got a lot more confidence and feel in the front end. i went for a quick drive through the adelaide hills, and i loved how quickly i caught up to the traffic in front of me. the only regret i have is not doing it sooner


Good stuff mate!!
Ive been wanting to lower my el xr8 ever since i had it, about 4.5 months now, but am kinda scared - i want it to stay legal (100mm ground clearance) & i dont want it to bottom out..

Whats the ground clearance on yours with that setup?
Also, how much did that setup cost ya?

Cheers buddy.


Watch it. That 100mm ground clearance is with 1 (I think it might be 2 actually) 70kg people in the car when the clearance is measured.

I know this because I have had to go through the ordeal of getting a car certified by an engineer. Mine scraped in at near 90mm with the sack of sand in the driver's seat.
actully its with the car fully loaded well in vic it is ie;5 seat car 5 people so if the cop really doesnt like you he could put most stock xr and ss s off the road but ive got super lows in both my cars and have never had a drama must admit i get a bit scared in the eb with 5 people and full of gas and petrol but dam it sits good
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Posted: Tue Feb 15, 2005 10:33 pm 
Parts Gopher
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Ride: EL XR6

Location: Adelaide
SA, Australia

TICKFORD_6 - are those wheel alignment specs standard, or is that what you asked for. if so what do the tyres wear like?
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Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 12:07 am 
Getting Side Ways
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thats not standard it's what i asked for.

1.3 degree camber (negative)

and stock caster pluss 2 i think stock is 2 so mine is at 4 (positive)

the front tyres are now wearing better than with the stock settings.

i like it because it gives good feed back through the steering wheel. and better turn-in.

you'll find it gets a slight bit 'touchy' at high speed above 130km but you do get used to it.

when i go back for the next one in a month or so i'm going to get an other 2 degrees caster put in. to see how it goes, if it's not so good i can always have it taken out again.

 

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Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 7:25 pm 
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Ride: au xr8 & 5.0 eb

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tickford_6 wrote:
thats not standard it's what i asked for.

1.3 degree camber (negative)

and stock caster pluss 2 i think stock is 2 so mine is at 4 (positive)

the front tyres are now wearing better than with the stock settings.

i like it because it gives good feed back through the steering wheel. and better turn-in.

you'll find it gets a slight bit 'touchy' at high speed above 130km but you do get used to it.

when i go back for the next one in a month or so i'm going to get an other 2 degrees caster put in. to see how it goes, if it's not so good i can always have it taken out again.
1.3 neg camber is kida on the low side ive played with my eb a fair bit in the settings ive now got 3/4- passanger side and just off 0 (on the negative side) on the drivers and your spot on with castor go the 2 degrees more i have 7 on the pass side and 6 on the drivers side differance in settings is to allow for the camber on the road all up i have 2mm overall toe in and just got 40k out of my last set of tyres (225/50/16) with these settings car feels alot hevier on the road and at the start kind of understeery until you get used to it with your settings i would run around 4-5mm overall toe in to save inside wear but trust me castor will do way more for you than running negative camber :D
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Posted: Wed Feb 16, 2005 7:34 pm 
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Location: S.E. Melbourne
VIC, Australia

I am getting whileline low springs and koni reds on wednesday. I asked for what would make my car handle the best, without worrying about looks. Apparently Low's with greater travel give better handling AND better ride. And the Koni's speak for themself!

$1290 fully installed

Later after I upgrade the wheels/tyres I can come back for a whiteline swaybar for $168.

Apparently the trick with camber is to check your tyres, if your wearing the outside = more camber needed, inside = less camber needed. -Disregarding other adjustments to improve handling

 

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Posted: Thu Feb 17, 2005 8:26 pm 
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v8fordman351 wrote:
tickford_6 wrote:
thats not standard it's what i asked for.

1.3 degree camber (negative)

and stock caster pluss 2 i think stock is 2 so mine is at 4 (positive)

the front tyres are now wearing better than with the stock settings.

i like it because it gives good feed back through the steering wheel. and better turn-in.

you'll find it gets a slight bit 'touchy' at high speed above 130km but you do get used to it.

when i go back for the next one in a month or so i'm going to get an other 2 degrees caster put in. to see how it goes, if it's not so good i can always have it taken out again.
1.3 neg camber is kida on the low side ive played with my eb a fair bit in the settings ive now got 3/4- passanger side and just off 0 (on the negative side) on the drivers and your spot on with castor go the 2 degrees more i have 7 on the pass side and 6 on the drivers side differance in settings is to allow for the camber on the road all up i have 2mm overall toe in and just got 40k out of my last set of tyres (225/50/16) with these settings car feels alot hevier on the road and at the start kind of understeery until you get used to it with your settings i would run around 4-5mm overall toe in to save inside wear but trust me castor will do way more for you than running negative camber :D



i never get mine setup to take road camber into account. i don't like having to steer up the raod when the road camber changes or when over taking people.

plus it makes the car feel strange to drive on circut and hill climbs

also how can 1.3 degrees be on the low side?? you'r only using 3/4 and just of nothing?? yours would be lower then mine

 

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Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2005 1:43 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Ride: au xr8 & 5.0 eb

Location: yarrawonga
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tickford_6 wrote:
v8fordman351 wrote:
tickford_6 wrote:
thats not standard it's what i asked for.

1.3 degree camber (negative)

and stock caster pluss 2 i think stock is 2 so mine is at 4 (positive)

the front tyres are now wearing better than with the stock settings.

i like it because it gives good feed back through the steering wheel. and better turn-in.

you'll find it gets a slight bit 'touchy' at high speed above 130km but you do get used to it.

when i go back for the next one in a month or so i'm going to get an other 2 degrees caster put in. to see how it goes, if it's not so good i can always have it taken out again.
1.3 neg camber is kida on the low side ive played with my eb a fair bit in the settings ive now got 3/4- passanger side and just off 0 (on the negative side) on the drivers and your spot on with castor go the 2 degrees more i have 7 on the pass side and 6 on the drivers side differance in settings is to allow for the camber on the road all up i have 2mm overall toe in and just got 40k out of my last set of tyres (225/50/16) with these settings car feels alot hevier on the road and at the start kind of understeery until you get used to it with your settings i would run around 4-5mm overall toe in to save inside wear but trust me castor will do way more for you than running negative camber :D



i never get mine setup to take road camber into account. i don't like having to steer up the raod when the road camber changes or when over taking people.

plus it makes the car feel strange to drive on circut and hill climbs

also how can 1.3 degrees be on the low side?? you'r only using 3/4 and just of nothing?? yours would be lower then mine
figure of speech in our shop we call more neg camber lower i know everyone uses differant jargon also i didnt know you did the circut/hill climb stuff there for your camber would suit
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Posted: Mon Feb 21, 2005 2:54 pm 
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Ride: EFII Fairmont

Location: Perth
WA, Australia

*Heads up

If some of you are like me and are chomping at the bit to get your car lowered. I have an article about that very thing, with Whiteline springs, swaybars and other goodies. Done to an EF Fairmont, and then road tested.
If you want to have read and look at the pics. The article will be in my gallery for a little while.

Cheers. 8-)
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Posted: Wed Feb 23, 2005 12:20 pm 
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Joined: 25th Nov 2004

Ride: BA XR8 Ute

Location: Geelong
VIC, Australia

Has anyone had any dramas with their BA Falcons regarding suspension sag on the right hand side?? I've had two BA's now (one was an XT wagon and now currently XR8 ute) and after some time (like 15000kms) the suspension seems to sag on the right. I've stuffed around redistributing the load around to the left but it seems to sag a bit on the right.
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