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| Top_Cat |
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Thanks, guys for the advice(attempts). It goes from 3rd to neutral instead of Overdrive, as you lift of a bit on the accelerator and the rev's drop sharply 'till the throttle position is equalled, and then it is in third again. As you slow down the rev's drop back with the gears so that when you start off again you climb back through the gears to third and a little over 3000 revs. The gearbox oil is showing at the correct level when checked with a 'hot' gearbox and the engine running. The dash display reads 'D' for drive even though it is in third, and when the shifter is pulled back into 3rd the display changes to third but the Tacho reads the same, and the engine note stays the same. It is NOt 'frozen' in 3rd gear. Resetting the ECU doesn't make a difference.
i I'm still not sure what to do, or where to go? Thanks again Top_Cat |
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| Froudey |
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as soon as you sort this problem pm me and post it up my gearbox is doing similair things soit is going into a sludebox mechanic
_________________ R.I.P Tobias my son. |
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| Top_Cat |
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Froudy,
I'm due at the g'box 'specialist' in the morning.It is 200klm (round trip) of third gear driving away, but I'll let you know what he says, tomorrow. Top_Cat |
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| Froudey |
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cheers it would be appercative.. i suppose your finding as i m you are using more fuel etc. it is just plan annoying with a car reving somewhat, now i know why you asked on here first 200km is a long drive to a "specialist"
_________________ R.I.P Tobias my son. |
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| stomper |
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I have a netural position switch if you want to try it. I got a 2nd hand one for mine to see if that would work but no dice.
Mine is in LHM untill its hot then turn it off and back on and its good as gold. Nice big hill helps.. But i got a T5 soon:)
_________________ HOLDENS go like rockets. They fall apart in stages!!! |
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| Top_Cat |
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O.K. Froudy,
I'm Baaaack! After putting the 'diagnostic tool into the appropriate port in the fuse-box, the g'box 'specialist' gave me the 'good' news. "It's NOT an electrical problem." Then he gave me the 'Bad' news. Therefore it must be a 'gearbox (hydraulic)' problem. Somewhere between $250.00 and $2,500.00 to fix." In the absence of any other assistance it is booked in for next Tuesday to be 'opened up' and the underlying cause determined. Now, I'm going back to bed. I think I have a headache! Top_Cat
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| WJF_XR |
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I have heard of a EB 3.9 lit auto electronic overdrive having a similar problem
solution , installed a new battery ( old battery was down on voltage ,started ok , every thing else worked fine, But did not have enough power to drive electronic overdrive) borrow a good battery to check |
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| Top_Cat |
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To WJF_XR,
Today I tried a'brand new' battery in my NF Failaine, and I took It out onto the highway. I would like to tell you that 'Overdrive' magically returned, but, unfortunately, it is still 'missing. Thanks for the try, though. It shows how desperate I am; I'll try almost anything. Any other thoughts?????????????? Top_Cat
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| Froudey |
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been there done that... just a thought do you have any kickdown??? cause the power and economy switch kicks down to 2nd in mine then up to 3rd at the right time but that's it, and yeah no kickdown on the acllerator pedal
_________________ R.I.P Tobias my son. |
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| samftr |
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So what model car do ya have top cat? Is it an NF fairlane?
I have a diagnostic box to suit eb2 - el falcons.. it picks up all sorts of things. its probably something stupid and simple by the way. what side of town are you on... im on the northside. pm me if you want. sambo
_________________ 175.7hp 15.5 @ 374,000km
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| nv8351 |
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Top_Cat wrote: O.K. Froudy,
I'm Baaaack! After putting the 'diagnostic tool into the appropriate port in the fuse-box, the g'box 'specialist' gave me the 'good' news. "It's NOT an electrical problem." Then he gave me the 'Bad' news. Therefore it must be a 'gearbox (hydraulic)' problem. Somewhere between $250.00 and $2,500.00 to fix." In the absence of any other assistance it is booked in for next Tuesday to be 'opened up' and the underlying cause determined. Now, I'm going back to bed. I think I have a headache! Top_Cat hmm $2500 is a bit rich i had to get my trans fully reon'd just over a year ago and it was $2300 although insurance covered some of the cost which makes me think that the price may have been jacked up. i totaly regret getting it done though as i could have got a manual conversion done and still had some change to buy a drink to drown my sorrows. this price relates to a eb 5.0L 4 spd tranny
_________________ 2010 G6E TURBO |
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| grumblebum04 |
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My ef has similar troubles thought it was third position on shifter but it was going from 2nd to neutral and only when temp gauge on bottom line. Any hotter or colder and it would be ok, just the temp of going round town!
I found that it wasn't the 3rd/od change but rather the 2nd/3rd change. I twigged to this when the revs stayed the same whether in (manual) 2nd or 3rd. od was neutral. It has to be a solenoid that operates/deenergises in the 2nd/3rd shift as rocking shifter slowly from 2nd to 3rd eventually clears problem for rest of that trip. Interested to know what the experts find out. Standard answer-new box.
_________________ The thunder of .05 will echoe around Bathurst for ever. |
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| Top_Cat |
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G'box 'experts' get it next Tuesday. I might know by Wedenesday. I will post their comment for those interested.
Top_Cat |
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| WJF_XR |
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hi
just a quick thought, by missing I assume you mean the engine. the plug leads, should be replaced @ 80,000 TO 100,000 kms distributor cap and rotor button , Models that have them, should be replaced @ 80,000 TO 100,000 kms OR it could have a faulty coil pack (try Ford Dealer to test) replace the fuel filter, (under left hand rear door) Another issue at about 10 years old these Fords can have over heating problems REPLACE the radiator ie New one (do not clean) Models with fan clutches , REPLACE with a FORD unit |
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| Top_Cat |
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To WJF_XR
Thanks. I have replaced the plugs and leads about 10,000 ago, air filter, oil etc. Also (new) radiator thermostat and cap. The 'missing' that I am referring to is 'non-existant'! The gear select stays in third gear and 'fails' to shift into overdrive when you lift to allow the revs to 'drop'. The diagnostic 'tool' has been plugged in and it says 'no faults', which I am told makes it a 'non electrical' problem - probably hydraulic, or physical, and yes, the box has to be opened up, (along with my wallet, no doubt). Top_Cat
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