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XG steering box adjustment 

 

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 Post subject: XG steering box adjustment
Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 1:47 pm 
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I have been told i need to remove some slop in my steering by adjusting the steering box. They said there are two adjusters. Can anyone please tell me where these are located? I am getting a workshop manual but that will take some time.

I can see an allen key slot on the top which seems to hold down a small plate, otherwise i have a vague idea removing the large nut at the bottom reveals something?

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 2:48 pm 
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Get an expert to adjust it, any over adjustment and it will s**t its self.

 

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Posted: Sun Dec 16, 2007 7:15 pm 
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MadMatt wrote:
Get an expert to adjust it, any over adjustment and it will s**t its self.

Thanks, taking that into account i'll not fiddle with it unless through research i convince myself otherwise. I don't imagine an expert would charge much to do it anyway.

The person that told me it needs doing it is a ford dealer who i am getting a blue slip from, he said if you go too far there will be resistance. I imagine you jack the front wheels off the ground, adjust it up till you can feel resistance, then back it off. If as he says there are two adjusters a particular sequence may need to be followed. If anyone wants to provide more information i am interested.

 

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Posted: Mon Dec 17, 2007 6:15 pm 
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The proper way to adjust it without stuffing it, is to do it with the draglink taken off the pitman arm. Those boxes have slop at the outer limits of travel. The little allen socket screw in the top is to be removed for the mesh adjustment of the sector shaft and worm shaft.
Also, the top bush wears in the top cover, you can replace these with another unit that has a needle roller bearing in it, instead of the OE bush.
The other adjusting point is on the side of the s/box, which is for the mesh of the piston rack onto the sector shaft. This doesn't usually need adjusting.

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 9:26 pm 
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Thanks. I take it if i found the OE bush worn i could keep using it till i found a needle roller to replace it, at least, the slop isn't too bad so it should pass rego, i hope. The adjuster on the side, i looked for one before, i noticed a noggin on the body side, i'll have another look. Still searching for a workshop manual, supplies are hard to get where i am and christmas isn't helping.

 

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Posted: Tue Dec 18, 2007 9:38 pm 
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relaxed_diplomacy wrote:
Thanks. I take it if i found the OE bush worn i could keep using it till i found a needle roller to replace it, at least, the slop isn't too bad so it should pass rego, i hope. The adjuster on the side, i looked for one before, i noticed a noggin on the body side, i'll have another look. Still searching for a workshop manual, supplies are hard to get where i am and christmas isn't helping.



The needle roller one is another complete unit. You can get them from joints that rebuild power steering stuff. Thats where I got them from.

 

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Posted: Wed Dec 19, 2007 9:25 pm 
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cjh wrote:
The needle roller one is another complete unit. You can get them from joints that rebuild power steering stuff. Thats where I got them from.

When you say 'unit' do you mean the top cover or the entire steering box?

I drove 37kms today to my nearest auto parts store and they didn't even have a puller. Tis the boondocks. Should i get some p/s fluid too?

Will i be able to fully ascertain the appropriate level of adjustment by checking at the pitman arm (drag link off), or should i use the steering wheel? Do i need any special tools to do the adjustment?

I take it that at no time should i run the engine during this, certainly not while the cover is off otherwise fluid will be all over the place?

 

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Posted: Thu Dec 20, 2007 9:03 pm 
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relaxed_diplomacy wrote:
cjh wrote:
The needle roller one is another complete unit. You can get them from joints that rebuild power steering stuff. Thats where I got them from.

When you say 'unit' do you mean the top cover or the entire steering box?

I drove 37kms today to my nearest auto parts store and they didn't even have a puller. Tis the boondocks. Should i get some p/s fluid too?

Will i be able to fully ascertain the appropriate level of adjustment by checking at the pitman arm (drag link off), or should i use the steering wheel? Do i need any special tools to do the adjustment?

I take it that at no time should i run the engine during this, certainly not while the cover is off otherwise fluid will be all over the place?


Yeah, the top cover, the alloy bit. The needle roller one comes wholus bolus, with O'ring too. If you replace it, be careful not to pinch the O'ring.
You will need Allen Keys to adjust the sector shaft mesh.
You will have to swap over the little grub screw from the old cover to the new cover. You will have to heat it up a bit to get it out.
I know what you mean when you gotta travel 40ks to get bits.

 

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Posted: Mon Dec 24, 2007 1:06 pm 
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I think i am ready to do it now, have puller, though no fluid. I might lower the ps pump to guard against fluid draining from it and flowing out of the ps box while the top is off. If the pump is positive displacement it may not let fluid drain, but don't know.

 

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Posted: Thu Jan 03, 2008 2:23 pm 
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I have finally had a go at the steering box.

I heated the hex screw a few times but it won't budge (haven't hit it with a cold chisel though). I then removed the four bolts from the top plate and tried to remove it, even heated it, but it won't budge either. I haven't given it a real solid thump because i don't know if that may damage internal components.

Any suggestions?

Repco quoted me $12 part no.6003 for a needle roller bearing to fit the top case. Don't know if it is a press fit or what.

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 04, 2008 2:28 pm 
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still can't get the grub screw or top plate off. maybe i should drive a screwdriver into the gasket, or use p/s pressure to pop the top?

Need help, please.

 

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Posted: Fri Jan 04, 2008 3:18 pm 
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hi,ive been watching this post for a while. does a xg have a steering box basically the same as xy-xf?? i have had an xy one apart before .the top plate with 4 bolts was threaded for the centre sector shaft adjusting screw.this meant i had to take the nut off first and the screw had to be done up so it threaded back thru the bottom of the plate. screw and nut you are talking about. it says this in my gregorys manual. hope this helps
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