Hi guru's.
After days of searching these forums for answers and then double checking everything ten times,
I still have made no progress.
I have a xh ute with no spark. It started with one day, turned car off and had to wait 15-20 mins before it would restart. Car ran sweet for weeks and then this problem became more regular. Car would start and run like a dream, travel 3mins around the corner to shop, turn off and then 5 mins later the car wouldn't restart. Again, wait 20 mins and the car would start and run fine.
Last friday it got me to work and back (50km) and have not been able to start since.
There is no spark on cranking. To date, coil and ignition module have been replaced. Inputs and outputs of module all apear fine according to multimeter. I have tested the hall effect sensor according to info from your resources forum although my wiring loom has different color wires what has been published. I have disconnected the ECC to omit any problems from there as I believe ignition is independant to the ECC. Smartlock is showing no light when ignition is on, so believe this not to be an issue. All high tension leads have been checked and replaced. Carbon button in disi contacts rotor arm. Disi cap is in good order with no visible damage. I have no voltage what so ever from coil output.
Is there something I could be missing?

Just read another post in X series forum.
Before everyone starts bi@#*ing agin, I think I'll see if the fuel pump and injectors are operating.
LOL.
Pretty sure its gunna be the Hall Effect Sensor.
How would I go about putting ECC in diagnostic mode to set the timing once I have spark?

Now Im really confused.
I have +12volts at both the red and white wires at the injector with the ignition on and the same whilst cranking with no variation.

Help............

I'd be tipping the TFI module on the dizzy. They create this 'intermittent' problem. very annoying.

If not, the coil. My other XH (shiity tradesman) did same thing. Ended up being the coil.

A few months later my fuel pump also died. Same symptoms. Would sometimes start, then not....

i had similar problem with my EA, the negative wire from your coil links back to the dissy module, tells it to start sparking, my wire was rubbed through and only slightly contacting, fixed it all good ever since

I'd be looking at the TFI module as well. My ute did the same as you described. If you fit a new one it might pay to take the dizzy cap off so you can hold down the clip the TFI module pushes up into for a good contact.

He says he's replaced the "ignition module" to me, that means that he's replaced the TFI module, otherwise I'd be saying TFI for sure. The EEC MUST Be connected or you will definatley not have spark, but here's what I"d be checking;

Power to positive side of coil?
Condition of the LT wiring to the coil?
Coil HT lead to dissy?
Is the rotor button in good order?
Is the distributor actually turning when you crank the engine? Perhaps it's stripped it's drive gear?
What are your ignition leads like?
What are your actual spark plugs like? I've seen spark plugs that were so stuffed that the engine had no spark.

Hope this helps,

Gab

The TFI was the first thing I replaced. I have checked or replaced everything with the exception of the Hall Effect sensor.
I have been told since, that I should just get another Dissi from the wreckers as they at least have some warranty.

P.S. All leads (LT and HT) are good, along with the plugs. Power to coil is there.
What is the little blue cube plugged into the loom near the coil?

Thanks so far guy's.

Turns out it was corrosion on the BEM module circuit board.