Did you reset the ECU after you did the tmap swap by disconnecting the battery?

I'd assume so, but in saying that, it is an XR6T regulator with a reasonably large fuel pump behind it, which makes me think the car is just getting way too much fuel.


Hmm, getting a scantool is going to be a problem. I'll go over the wiring once more, but it's going to be the fifth time i've done it, it's doing my head in


That alone isn't going to fix the problem, but yes, i have had the battery disconnected several times to see if it makes a difference.

What's the pressure & flow rate of the current fuel pump compared to stock Xr6t?

Cheers

ToranaGuy

hey mate, a couple of things..
Did you ever change the earth lead over to the shortest possible length? You dont want to run an earth over a long distance, it will do you more harm than good, and if you extend the active, you need to increase the size of the cable. You may have sorted this out, but i wanted to emphasise this if not.

Have you swapped the fuel pressure regulator on the bbm from the standard pressure to the turbo pressure reg? If not this may be influencing things.

Also, check the lamda sensor, it shouldn't be causing all or nothing throttle positions(not that i have anything against cars that're all or nothing..) but if it's belching black smoke, then it's working overtime to make the correction - or not making the correction at all..

Also, i've never tried so i'm not sure, but if you trun the ignition on to instruments, are you able to see if the throttle body opens accordingly to your throttle inputs? Eg. take the crossover/piping off, get someone to press the accelerator while you watch the throttle body.. You want to be sure that the TPS is actually responding to your inputs as it should..

Hopefully something here helps you on your way to a resolution.. if not, keep at it, it'll be something simple

I have a 255amp starter cable running from the battery to the block (running the length of the car) and another 255amp cable running from the battery to the chassis in the bootspace, my next step is to try an earth of the same size from the block to the body in the engine bay.


Yes i have swapped the N/A fuel regulator to an XR6T item.


What's a lamda sensor? I've never heard that term before . I gather you're talking about the oxygen sensor, but if it is, the sensor is brand new and only travelled a few thousand kilometres.


Yes, i used to be able to turn the ignition on without starting the car and operate the throttle normally, if i install the N/A MAP sensor the throttle will become active again but will only operate fully open or closed no matter what position the accellerator pedal is in. BUT i have installed a new TPS as i have a feeling the old TPS was causing my stalling problems when the car was originally running. I have tried using the old sensor, but it had no effect.

Thanks for all your help guys i really do appreciate it

Hey mate, it doesn't sound like i was much help, but i'll clarify a few things..
I don't know what gauge 255amp is, but it is starting the car so it should be alright. However, in this case bigger is always better

Ok, you've swapped the pressure reg, just make sure the filter in the reg. is clean, and if you haven't changed the fuel filter from the tank it would help, but wouldn't be causing these issues..

The Lamda sensor is the Oxygen sensor, you're quite right. Now these can pack up, so it'd be worth borrowing one off a mate, for the 5 mins effort it would atleast cross one more thing off the list.

Now, with the MAP sensor.. I'm not sure, but the heat from soldering the wires may well have caused some issues with the sensor. If you can get hold of a spare that hasn't been soldered, try crimping the cables on the power wire, and the sensor wires, then connect them. Its a bit of effort, but it's easy to just re solder the joints if it doesn't help later.

Also, the TPS on the throttle body may well be the issue, but have you thought about the accelerator end? Are you using the BA pedal box (or accelerator pedal for that matter) Because there is a Sensor in the pedal, and the MAP shouldn't be causing the pedal to only work as all or nothing(stranger things have happened tho)
So if you know anyone with a BA that doesn't mind you pulling the accelerator off it, try swapping the pedal over and give it a try.

If this doesn't help i'll have a more indepth read over the thread and see if i can spot anything else..
Good luck

i dont mean to be a killjoy - but the ba pcm will shut off throttle activation for any number of reasons and guessing could take a long time. Best option is definately going to be a scan tool - it will give you a fault code and an area to start looking

The cable i've used is a 2awg 32mm2 by Narva, it should be plenty big enough to supply power for the starter etc.


The regulator is a brand new genuine ford item and i've changed the fuel filter also.


I'll see if i can get hold of one, but it was working perfectly when i started this project and i've been very careful not to drop or shock the sensor while it's been out of the car.


There's no way the sensor has been affected by soldering, it's only the plug that has been soldered to the engine loom, the sensor wasn't attached at the time and i've triple checked i had the wiring in the right sequence.


I don't think the new TPS is the issue, again it's a brand new genuine unit and has never been used. The accellerator pedal was working perfectly before i started work, not really keen to pull the pedal out of a working BA as it's a massive pain in the proverbial. I had a hard enough time trying to get the one that's in my car at the moment.


I completely agree, but there is no way i can get hold of a scantool. I think what i may do, is get everything ready to be tuned and take it back to BPT to see if they can fix it, if nothing straightens out in the meantime.

it shouldnt make any difference wether it has a std or xr6t fuel reg,
as at idle the fuel pressure would be the same,
its only when the xr6t reg reads 0 vac or boost is when the fuel pressure will be higher than std..

Ahh! I see, thanks for clearing that up for me Troyman.

Troyman, you're right, i was just thinking if it is working as all or nothing, then the standard reg will be feeding a different pressure to what the car would be expecting when throttle is applied..

Are you running a standard ecu with aftermarket boost control, or using a turbo ecu?

great read fordman will be attempting this myself soon, only difference is im using a t5 gearbox and going to do the complete dash conversion + all wiring etc hoping to just plug and play so to speak.

does anyone know if the ed 5spd will be easier to have running instead of an auto like fordmans? im also assuming ill need a BA 5 SPD ECU? as my parts are coming from my mates wrecked ba auto...

ED 5spd - don't think it will hookup to the BA engine without a BA bell housing. Can anyone comment on that?

Fordmda351 -> Did you get it sorted yet dude?

Cheers

ToranaGuy

an ED T5 will bolt up, but the lower bellhousing bolts will not align

do the bottom 2 bolts really matter? or should i use a ba bellhousing? and is it possible to use the ba auto ecu or do i need to get a 5spd?
cheers