|
| Tocchi |
|
|||
|
LOL matt ... its easy to take motor/box out in 1 piece... just remove harmonic balancer and its a walk in the park.
for the TC, see how theres a gap for where the SM goes? attach it there, and you should be able to get a bolt and your fingers inbetween flywheel and block in the other top hole. then use a strap wrench to turn over motor to get other 2 bolts 
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| fordman351 |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: LOL matt ... its easy to take motor/box out in 1 piece... just remove harmonic balancer and its a walk in the park. I still had the harmonic balancer attached! See...i'm more skilled hahahaha!  ....and thpethial.Quote: for the TC, see how theres a gap for where the SM goes?
attach it there, and you should be able to get a bolt and your fingers inbetween flywheel and block in the other top hole. That's what i thought, but through the starter motor gap, i don't think the bolts are going to fit. Above the flexplate and in the gap behind it should be easy, but how am i going to torque up the bolts so they're tight enough and dont let go? |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Tocchi |
|
|||
|
the starter motor gap im talking about is the 3" hole.
do them to the torque neccesary. look in the EL workshop manual
if the engine can turn over easy (its harder when you put new bearings in), then turn it over from the harmonic balancer (22mm socket) |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Paulmac |
|
||
|
I give in, what does the manual say?
"attach the tc to the flex-plate with care" or does it give you a helpful hint? "make sure you tension the bolts in stages" LOL [sadly] Ford must be very confident the bolts will never need checking or the box removed if it's an engine out job! It begs the questions, how did someone get the old one off and why bother? I'll stay tuned to check out the next instalment. Good luck, Paul
_________________ What goes around, comes around. |
||
| Top | |
||
| Dansedgli |
|
||
|
Cant you access them from underneath the sump? There is a blanking plate on the bottom of the sump facing the flywheel isnt there?
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post. |
||
| Top | |
||
| twase |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: Cant you access them from underneath the sump? There is a blanking plate on the bottom of the sump facing the flywheel isnt there? Yes its a little plastic flap that gains you access to the bolts.
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| xpression |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: {USERNAME} wrote: Cant you access them from underneath the sump? There is a blanking plate on the bottom of the sump facing the flywheel isnt there? Yes its a little plastic flap that gains you access to the bolts.agreed |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| fordman351 |
|
|||
|
Is there!? I have had the engine sitting on the ground since i bought it and have never checked underneath it haha. Glad thats got that plate there!
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| RSWEPN |
|
||
|
yep, perfect for accessing convertor bolts
i should know, ive pulled out my box like 10times =[
|
||
| Top | |
||
| fordman351 |
|
|||
|
Nothing much happened today, just scrubbed and degreased the engine bay, tidied up a bit of wiring in readiness to run cables to the bootspace in which i will install my battery. I also had a tinker aroung with the gearbox, took the e-series bellhousing off and installed the AU (same as BA) bellhousing.
Mmmm, clean engine bay, compared to what it was! 
It doesn't look like anything spcial, but it's good for a reliable 450hp. 
AU/BA bellhousing on the left, e-series on the right, bottom bolt holes the only difference. 
Custom billet servo, i polished it for the photo hahaha! 
|
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Disco Frank |
|
|||
|
nice mate nice
give the box a good clean and some matte black paint from a rattle can before u drop it in shame u could not get the bolt holes in the EF house machined in
_________________ RIP SCOTT |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| twase |
|
|||
|
[quote="fordman351"] bellhousing off and installed the AU (same as BA) bellhousing.
quote] To be pedantic its not exactly the same, the BA has mounting points for the shifter cable where the AU does not.
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| twase |
|
|||
|
{USERNAME} wrote: nice mate nice Its not a matter of adding the holes as there is not enough metal on the bottom of the E series bellhousing, you would need to graft a strip on then drill it.
give the box a good clean and some matte black paint from a rattle can before u drop it in shame u could not get the bolt holes in the EF house machined in
_________________ BF Fairmont Ghia Series II update. |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Disco Frank |
|
|||
|
yes i know that man ^^ hence why i said shame it could not get them machined for this
_________________ RIP SCOTT |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| fordman351 |
|
|||
|
I finally built up the courage to cut up my crossmember, i'll post up pictures tonight after work on how i did this.
The towtruck is coming to pick up the car tomorrow to take it to Adrenaline and have the crossmember welded up. Being a high strength steel, im not keen on 'just' welding it together, being a structual component i don't want welds cracking and carrying on. Also getting new braided steel transmission lines and a new high pressure power steering hose made up. Theyre not going to bo cheap, around about the $450-$500 mark!! |
|||
| Top | |
|||
| Who is online |
|---|
Users browsing this forum: No registered users and 0 guests |
