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Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2008 9:24 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 47

Posts: 1061

Joined: 7th Sep 2007

Gallery: 3 images

Ride: BF3 Egas wag SY AWD Terry Ghia

Location: Brookfield
VIC, Australia

I pulled the LHF power window from the parts car the other week and discovered why it was sluggish.
The stupid plastic sleve was broken so i will have to turn up a new aluminium one on a lathe like I did for the drivers.

 

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Posted: Sat Sep 06, 2008 9:59 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 42

Posts: 3775

Joined: 22nd Apr 2007

Gallery: 5 images

Ride: DENTED UP OLD AUT WAGON

Location: Wellington
New Zealand

Ahah - They suck... I actually tried to pull one apart and got fed up with pulling on a taut piece of wire so found something better to do involving angle grinders and large hammers.

... Never mind, all good - I had to order a new (fake) mirror from Hong Kong via Aussie... Someone totally cleaned my drivers one off the car whilst I was driving. Honestly - I turned around and tried to find it. The biggest bit of plastic was about half an inch triangle shard and everything else was spread over a 20m area... Very small layer of Ford covering the road in a shotgun pattern. The guy didn't even stop, and it was night time so all I saw was two headlights... Amazed he didn't hit the side of my car at all --- other than the mirror.


I got the left hand rear door glass sliding up and down electronically again today and also pulled the front passenger apart and cleaned it out of years of brown / gray sludge that meant I did dangerous contortions shutting the window whilst driving - steering with knee, one hand on the UP button and one hand pulling the window back... Fine on the drivers side, but when you gotta take your seat belt off, lean over the otherside of the car and maintain use of brake... Well, glad I fixed it... It'll die slowly again, of course, but is fine for a little bit.


Painted the door pillars with a black non glossy bumper colour paint (Plastic-cote product once again - much better than that Septone rubbish another Fordmods guy recommended... He said "it's tougher than plastic - I am scratching my plastic before the paint chips"... What a load of crap. It hardly works any better than using a quality BLACK ETCH PRIMER with no top coat at all...!)

Anyhooooo

The "bumper colour" works a little like the plastic or vinyl paints so I used it for the boot pillar trims and the ugly bits of plastic between rear windows and doors. I then decided to pull off all the old rubber, metal and plastic trim, wash it all down and paint it all.... Looks primo! Very happy with it - Brings the quarter windows in the back up like new. Awesome.

Putting all the trims back on was easier than taking them off ---

ALTHOUGH....


There are five or six holes along the sill under the rear right and rear left windows that the trim pushes into with pastic spreader clips. It rained heavily and I ended up with water in the boot (which I never used to get much of - maybe a little around the boot latch recess on occasion...) I have a funny feeling that although the original seals around these holes had perished and rust had set in that they were still sealing. Now they ain't.


Hey Rick --- Do the wagons in Aussie all rust out in front of the rear wheel arch? Wellington gets hit by salty southerly winds (it's famous for it - ask any touring Aussie sports team) and I am currently spending time at wreckers convincing them to allow my power tools in to cut the panel from rear passenger doors around wheel arch out...
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Posted: Sun Sep 07, 2008 10:32 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 47

Posts: 1061

Joined: 7th Sep 2007

Gallery: 3 images

Ride: BF3 Egas wag SY AWD Terry Ghia

Location: Brookfield
VIC, Australia

No rust in my cars at all.

Salt does tend to eat bodywork.

I was looking at your door speaker instal and saw you had put big speakers in the rears.
I put some giant 6x9 Pioneers in my tailgate years ago and got tired of the thing bashing me on the head. :twisted:
Anyhow when I tried new struts it helped but on cold days the door still hit my head and I got this huge cut from the latch. I was also getting water in the bottom of the boot area. :?

I found another tailgate at the wreckers for $100 whilst looking for parts for the projects so I grabbed it along with the boot seal. 4 problems solved, broken number plate surround anr reversing lights, water leaks fixed, faulty wiper and dented tailgate replaced.

After fitting it I found I have fixed the leak and got new 6.5" speakers to reduce weight.

No more head injuries. :D

 

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Posted: Sun Sep 07, 2008 7:19 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 42

Posts: 3775

Joined: 22nd Apr 2007

Gallery: 5 images

Ride: DENTED UP OLD AUT WAGON

Location: Wellington
New Zealand

Yeahp - I have issues with the heavy speakers shutting the boot for me too! Am going to put in a stronger gas strut, or even put in a third strut! One day, when I get around to it.

Will take some photos of the rust I am talking about - It is coming through in EVERY single wagon I have seen in the Wellington region. Some have even started getting being ordered off the road because of it. Rank...

It's caused by the weather building up a collection of rubbish in the pillars and wet stuff leaking in to the wall cavity and the drainage not being adequate once anything larger than one micron goes in there.

Anyhoo - Took the grill off and tidied up my hole today...




Image

This image is uploaded in my image gallery, but here is how I got there...

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Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 7:13 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 47

Posts: 1061

Joined: 7th Sep 2007

Gallery: 3 images

Ride: BF3 Egas wag SY AWD Terry Ghia

Location: Brookfield
VIC, Australia

Nice work there and I love your graphics work.
I am very inexperienced with picture manipulation.
I am playing around a bit learning to work with pictures for some reports I am writing for work.

 

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Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 7:52 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 42

Posts: 3775

Joined: 22nd Apr 2007

Gallery: 5 images

Ride: DENTED UP OLD AUT WAGON

Location: Wellington
New Zealand

Today I chopped the bonnet lining out where it was creating further restrictions and filled all the gaps where air could go up bonnet in lining or bonnet frame.

Also glued the lining up.

Used a fire guard space filler type product. Will do some photos tomorrow.


Arrived today --- The clear tailights that ARE GOING TO FIT... I am sure they'll fit - Just need to chop a line or two here and there and hit it with a sledge hammer really hard in the middle... It'll fit...


Also reshaped the original Ford monsoon shield on passenger side that has been broken and left sharp. Now looks a little like a "bikini monsoon shield"...



As for image manipulation - I've been doing it for twenty five years and am pretty good when I try. Can do stuff that you'll never work out was fake - promise you, even the forensec or professional photographers wouldn't work it out... Not all images can be done like that, you gotta be selective mind you. The stuff you see me do here is all done pretty damn quickly and without much worry about what it looks like, checking spelling or correcting colours to the actual real colour.

I spent a couple of hours doing my instrument cluster design... Usually spend more time looking for the right photos than actually working on them...

The graphic of the airflow took about an hour, and I admit to trying a few different things with it as I have never done a "cutaway" image like this before.

I ain't too sure if everyone else can follow it --- To me it is obvious and I would have made it more visually pleasing but the actual technical aspect of the image was becoming unclear.

Hope everyone can see it and make sense of it.


Very happy with the way the whole airflow thing is going - especially now that the lining is air proof.


Have decided the old XR6 vents I bought are crap and am going to fabricate my own vent that will allow air out and keep water out too. Will be permanently fixed to bonnet, but then again - I ain't likely to sell the car too soon so will just have to do a good job on it.


All good....
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 Post subject: RUST IN BEHIND REAR DOOR
Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 8:36 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 42

Posts: 3775

Joined: 22nd Apr 2007

Gallery: 5 images

Ride: DENTED UP OLD AUT WAGON

Location: Wellington
New Zealand

The Rust photos --- every single one of these cars over here seems to have the rust in front of rear wheel arch. I have taken the offending area out of a car with virtually no external rust and found rust in the internals of it.

Ford designed it like this and there are drain holes right down underneath the wheel arch at bottom of wheel arch behind the jack point. The drain holes work until they get clogged (spinning up the rear wheels on dirt will clog them with clay..)

At least the problem area stops at about the same level as the plastic trim, so it's simple to hide the join where you replace the panel.

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Last edited by fiend on Mon Jan 12, 2009 8:38 am, edited 1 time in total.

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Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 9:12 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 47

Posts: 1061

Joined: 7th Sep 2007

Gallery: 3 images

Ride: BF3 Egas wag SY AWD Terry Ghia

Location: Brookfield
VIC, Australia

I havent pulled off that cover before but there's none of that rust on my cars.
My rear guards are clean.
I do give the guards a squirt with the hose now and then to release any trapped mud and rubbish.

 

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Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 9:28 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 42

Posts: 3775

Joined: 22nd Apr 2007

Gallery: 5 images

Ride: DENTED UP OLD AUT WAGON

Location: Wellington
New Zealand

The rust does start on the inside of the wall cavity (to use builders terms..)- no way to hose it! The V where the external (shiny body colour) meets the inside wheel arch panel (blackish matt colour) starts corroding. Will post a photo of the bit I chopped out another wagon tomorrow and show you. May be worth taking the trims off and pouring some rust converter down there so yours don't go this way in another five years. Obviously NZ being completely ocean and salt air makes this happen more readily than over in your soft country.
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Posted: Mon Sep 08, 2008 9:41 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 47

Posts: 1061

Joined: 7th Sep 2007

Gallery: 3 images

Ride: BF3 Egas wag SY AWD Terry Ghia

Location: Brookfield
VIC, Australia

I live in the dry inland... funny Its been damp a lot lately.
The paintwork is getting very tired in some places on the old classic wagon. The obviously resprayed front bumper has the clear coat peeling off everywhere along with a couple of other spots that were touched up before I bought it.

 

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Posted: Wed Sep 10, 2008 10:50 am 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 42

Posts: 3775

Joined: 22nd Apr 2007

Gallery: 5 images

Ride: DENTED UP OLD AUT WAGON

Location: Wellington
New Zealand

A couple of photos of the rust as they're worth a thousand words.

AND - A photo of the car as at presently sits.
Note how the a*** end is quite high again... That's it without the 400kg of tools in the back. Had to take everything out the boot as have not fixed the leaks in the rear side window yet.... Never mind.


The rear clear lights are a tricky fit.

I can chop up another tailgate to add metal to each side eventually, but in the meantime I am going to chop up my currently rear lights and set the clear ones into the proper Ford ones. The lights I got are smaller - about 25mm vertically but about 50mm horizontally. Not too bad a fit tho - At least the angles are similar...

By adding metal to the boot I can fill the gap eventually... Yet another thing to do before I start worrying about paint to hide the "bitsa" qualities of the car. Have repainted the black rubbers, flashings, surrounds and covers with a PLASTI-COTE BUMPER COLOR product that seems to be real good. Other than showing my dirty fingerprints on the black surface when I push the door shut with that area. Hmmm, maybe I'll have to put a clear coat over the top and hope it doesn't go all glossy......

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Posted: Wed Sep 10, 2008 9:11 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 47

Posts: 1061

Joined: 7th Sep 2007

Gallery: 3 images

Ride: BF3 Egas wag SY AWD Terry Ghia

Location: Brookfield
VIC, Australia

The wheels and ride height make a massive difference.

 

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 Post subject: THE LITTLE OIL LEAK...!
Posted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 8:05 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 42

Posts: 3775

Joined: 22nd Apr 2007

Gallery: 5 images

Ride: DENTED UP OLD AUT WAGON

Location: Wellington
New Zealand

Here we are --- Story so far -

Had an oil leak that left a puddle wherever I stopped. Front of engine was covered in very old oil build up and was dribbling everywhere.

Cleaned it with a degreaser after replacing the rocker cover and seals (that were leaking originally...)

Decided that my educated guess (some would suggest uneducated) of the problem stemming from the front crank seal area was spot on.
Thanks to everyone who has been suggesting the fixes for this leak. I checked all of your suggestions multiple times and spent many hours scratching my head before deciding the only place it could be was the crank seal.

Spent all morning removing the harmonic balancer and couldn't see a single drop of oil anywhere on the drive shaft seal that would indicate any form of leak from that area. I started pulling of the tensioner assembly just out of curiosity.


Now, bugger me... !

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Posted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 8:21 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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Age: 42

Posts: 3775

Joined: 22nd Apr 2007

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Ride: DENTED UP OLD AUT WAGON

Location: Wellington
New Zealand

Any input into what created this HUGE BLOODY HOLE IN MY TIMING COVER and let all my oil run out, please speak up.

This hole has been there since owning the car as it always leaked oil, but was told by various mechanics "not to worry about it, all old Fords do that..."

It's only after spending more time than I'd care to admit looking around Fordmods that it dawned on me that not all old Fords leak like that.
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Posted: Sun Sep 14, 2008 8:30 pm 
Getting Side Ways
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f**k hell mate...... go to every one of those mechanics & hit them in the head with a brick..... a few times

I think thats where the "pointer" is when measuring TDC (top dead center)

Dunno how it cracked/fell off..... but you might wanna check that your tensioner, and plastic guides are still there. Its possible they got flung around and ripped that hole open.

Oh and good job with the patchwork, keep an eye on it as oil likes to get underneath sealant quite easily
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