Sorry to hijack again, but you seem to be the right person to ask. I was curious what type and where it was because I want to be able to stream music and take calls but I can't figure out the best solution? I have the aux jack but the interference is horrible! And changing to aux from the radio to answer a call is just annoying!

weird.. every time I triy to add stuff I get a permessions error about posting.php. but if I just put basic stuff in, it works. oh well, bit by bit then... see what was causing the issue. (UPDATE, the post was objecting to some code at the end of the ebay link so I chopped it down to just the item number and now it works.)

First I will tackle the engine noise on AUX.

There was an advisory for this from Ford..




That should improve things somewhat.. The PDF advisory has pictures.. so if you PM me your email address I'll email it to you.

You can also put a ground loop
isolator on the AUX to reduce it further or completely.

For the Bluetooth audio I got this:

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/161124185689

It is just stereo Bluetooth audio. (works great with Google nav too)
but I already have a separate Bluetooth hands-free in the car.

Once I get the rest of the system sorted.. my phone will use the laptop
as a hands-free as that functionality is available with Centerfuse (the
touch screen app in the video.)

man ,thats a mobile computer on wheels (and a very fast one at that )

It's getting there.. currently in discussions with a man about a T56 6 speed manual.. and better yet, he wants my BTR in trade... might work if I can negotiate the swap of pedal boxes and all the other bits too.

now that would be good ,6 speed manual conversion is what i would do to my ute if the btr lets go

The problem with the BTR is that when the power is boosted somewhat like mine is.. it seems to lose the ability to decide what great it should be in.. it's a pain in the butt.

I also love manuals.. it's almost like driving an auto isn't real driving.

yes manual just feel more powerful to drive .i only just got the btr rebuild with au parts and a high volume pump .and better solenoids to suit more hp .but with 330 rwkw they just will not last long

If I was after raw speed, I would get a ZF 6 speed auto, since I am slowly upgrading the whole car to BF electrical system anyway.. but it's more than that.. I love changing down on corners and feeling the driveline respond in your hands and feet.. you just don't get that with autos.

thats absolutely correct ,they are more fun to drive .but the auto is soooo much better in traffic jambs

Not really... The one thing I miss about my old EL (ghia with 5speed manual) over my Xr6T is the manual.. and I drive from one side of Perth to the other every morning and evening.

in traffic I hardly even tough the acellerator.. I just release the clutch slightly for a second and the car creeps forward... didn't really make a lot of difference for me.. plus I like the extra physical activity.

Much appreciated That's given me some ideas.

Not much happened to the car of late.

I have a new sideline hobby of rebuilding dodgy BA BF and Territory ignition barrels, done a ton of them now and I've got it down to a bit of an art. even offer them with a 12 month warranty because they are way stronger then they were as die cast ally. getting a bunch of different ones repaired so I can offer an instant exchange service.

Anyway, I want to convert my BA electrically to a BF, mostly because big chunks of it are already BF, and also because I need to convert the dash loom up anyway, so I might as well go the whole 9 yards.

I already have all the looms and ABS and PCM (and all other modules) from a high level BF. Last weekend I put the BF passanger loom from the right side rear, across the boot and all the way to the passanger front kick panel. This loom includes side air backs, premium sound front tweeters etc etc.

None of that stuff works yet, but all the stuff that works before still works, so it's a safe swap in.



I'll do the rest as time allows.

Just FYI, anyone that tells you that you cannot install a double din head unit under an ICC (as westside told my mate) are wrong. To prove they are wrong I submit these photo's from a dbldin I put in this weekend in my mates BA.

http://bits-ticket.biz.uwa.edu.au/franki/BA-XR6T/dbldin2.jpg

First this is how I fixed it in.. hidden back straps up both sides, the back is in quite tight so no movement at all and no need to fix it in from behind. Is rock solid immovable and looks mine.

the finished result:


There is a small block of mdf covered in grill cloth on either side of the unit to fill out the gaps and then I just used a bench grinder on the front face surround till it fit in nicely.

It fits in nicely and there is room for a DVD to come out without hitting the shifter.


You can see the screenv (up near the cluster) for the raspberry pi I installed for him a while back. controlls his wireless network and plays music up till now, will probably swap that function to the new deck now, but the pi can do lots of other stuff too. (including ODB2 stuff)

Last edited by frankieh on Thu Aug 07, 2014 10:08 pm, edited 2 times in total.

nice work ,just watch the abs module and traction control .they may play up .they played up on my ute ,and gave me some cods and limp home mode

really? what sorts of codes? I had hoped that if the entire loom and modules and PCM etc all came from the same car (even have the whole heater box), I'd not have any issues with compatibility.

you will have to use the abs module .they are coded to the computer .sorry i can not help more .but i had problems with it due to that my ute had no traction control but the car i got the engine conversion out did . it had a com code ,it was unable to read the computer and module out of my ute