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| johnnyeHCF |
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Hey guys'n'gal's but probably most likely guys
 Well I tackled the head studs "head on"-Yes pun intended  And like I said starting from the middle engine oil for lube,take a bolt out check and mark depths of each bolt/stud whole (I used a bbq scewer-this is to make sure they're nearly all the same and adjust if necessary) as you go 30ft lb,66ft pd,81ft pdf till all the studs are in. I think I'll go a bit tighter yet as the ARP studs go to 100ft lb but they're the slightly stronger ones than the standard ARP head studs. Cheers Johnny. You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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| johnnyeHCF |
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Hey guys,will get back to the top end of the engine soon but I wanted to mention my cooling system as this is foriegn to me.
On the engine I'm using na ba heater pipe on the hot side (have to because I'm using na ba exhaust manifold with up pipe)and using the small cross over pipe for the coolant for the turbo which will then go back to the top of the radiator. The cold side heater pipes will all be AN10 from the thermostat and expansion tank + 3 way AN10 fitting with the pro flow thermostat housing but with no thermostat and using a EWP or booster pump with the Davies Craig EWP & Fan controller in which the EWP will act as the thermostat heating the entire cooling system evenly by starting off pulsing the system and increasing flow as the coolant heats up and controller turns on fans at set temp etc.. Any idea's guys? Cheers Johnny. You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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| johnnyeHCF |
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Hey guys, just wanted to ask/check before I finish if anyone thinks there may be any problems with torquing the head studs to a final setting of 100ft lb's?,the studs and nuts seem to be torquing nicely and evenly-like it's not grabbing or anything,just want to see first before I do anything incase I don't need to go that high.
Thanks in advance for any help. Cheers Johnny.
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| johnnyeHCF |
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Okay I have read somewhere that I don't really need to go any tighter than 85ft lb with these sort of studs as I'm not going to be pushing very hi boost so I think I'll go with that so I can break out the assembly lube and get the cams back in. Have also removed the harmonic balancer so I can change the front crankshaft oil seal and then put under drive balancer from the other 182-will also be changing the rear oil seal too.
But if anyone has some advice would be much appreciated. Cheers Johnny.
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| Mad2 |
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johnnyeHCF wrote: Okay I have read somewhere that I don't really need to go any tighter than 85ft lb with these sort of studs as I'm not going to be pushing very hi boost so I think I'll go with that so I can break out the assembly lube and get the cams back in. Have also removed the harmonic balancer so I can change the front crankshaft oil seal and then put under drive balancer from the other 182-will also be changing the rear oil seal too. But if anyone has some advice would be much appreciated. Cheers Johnny. sorry mate .... no advice as i just want my name up in lights .... but as you know . . . . love ya work 
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Mad2 wrote: johnnyeHCF wrote: Okay I have read somewhere that I don't really need to go any tighter than 85ft lb with these sort of studs as I'm not going to be pushing very hi boost so I think I'll go with that so I can break out the assembly lube and get the cams back in. Have also removed the harmonic balancer so I can change the front crankshaft oil seal and then put under drive balancer from the other 182-will also be changing the rear oil seal too. But if anyone has some advice would be much appreciated. Cheers Johnny. sorry mate .... no advice as i just want my name up in lights .... but as you know . . . . love ya work Hey there Mr Madman, I just said "buck it" and torqued the cuckin funt to just under 100ft lb-the studs and different nuts with big head stud washers didn't argue about it much 
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| johnnyeHCF |
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Mad2 wrote: johnnyeHCF wrote: Okay I have read somewhere that I don't really need to go any tighter than 85ft lb with these sort of studs as I'm not going to be pushing very hi boost so I think I'll go with that so I can break out the assembly lube and get the cams back in. Have also removed the harmonic balancer so I can change the front crankshaft oil seal and then put under drive balancer from the other 182-will also be changing the rear oil seal too. But if anyone has some advice would be much appreciated. Cheers Johnny. sorry mate .... no advice as i just want my name up in lights .... but as you know . . . . love ya work Hey there Mr Madman, I just said "buck it" and torqued the cuckin funt to just under 100ft lb-the studs and different nuts with big head stud washers didn't argue about it much
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| johnnyeHCF |
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Sorry for the double post-stupid phone froze and then f@rt
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| Mad2 |
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johnnyeHCF wrote: Mad2 wrote: johnnyeHCF wrote: Okay I have read somewhere that I don't really need to go any tighter than 85ft lb with these sort of studs as I'm not going to be pushing very hi boost so I think I'll go with that so I can break out the assembly lube and get the cams back in. Have also removed the harmonic balancer so I can change the front crankshaft oil seal and then put under drive balancer from the other 182-will also be changing the rear oil seal too. But if anyone has some advice would be much appreciated. Cheers Johnny. sorry mate .... no advice as i just want my name up in lights .... but as you know . . . . love ya work Hey there Mr Madman, I just said "buck it" and torqued the cuckin funt to just under 100ft lb-the studs and different nuts with big head stud washers didn't argue about it much johnnyeHCF wrote: Sorry for the double post-stupid phone froze and then f@rt foork the ph i says  keep up the goood work maate
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| johnnyeHCF |
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Hey guys, Soooo I've got some stuff I took to the local engineer to get welded such as deleting filler cap on the radiator + 2 barbs/AN10 sump fitting/2 AN10 fittings for the rocker cover/IC temp sensor bungs in both IC pipes and 90° 3" bend for the turbo housing.
And while I've been waiting I tackled the windscreen trims-had to drill them out,Then I started to remove the windscreen using a small knife and I pulled one of the thick strings off my old fender stratocaster which I attached to 2 old spark plugs-with the string through the seal of the windscreen and working my way around pulling the string back and forth to cut through the seal the whole way around and managed to remove the windscreen in basically one peice. You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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| johnnyeHCF |
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Hellloooo...... to the 3 people who may see this (I've said it before "post some sheat ya mudda's") more people who post may very well help keep fordmods alive and not extinct like xfalcon.But I got my stuff back from being welded and it all turned out fairly good,also made a start on the lower radiator brackets aswell-anyway I'll let the pics tell the story.
Cheers Johnny. You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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| johnnyeHCF |
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So this is my idea with the lower radiator brackets,foam lined slip fit and these work together with the engine oil cooler brackets,next is the top radiator brackets which will utilize the OEM radiator mounting holes + getting the engine back together with new timing cover & sump gasket,not sure if I can reuse the rocker cover & VCT sensor seals and gaskets though?
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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| johnnyeHCF |
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Hey guys,I hope nobody minds but seeing as nothing is happening (On fordmods atm)I'm just going to keep posting my progress with the ute-it at least keeps me motivated.
The radiator fits good now the filler neck is deleted-lower brackets should work nicely and have cut all the bits for the top mounts which I'll be using rivnuts to run a bolt from the front,think it's time to pull the engine & box to get the bay ready for the new engine-harness & some boost! P.s yes it is a wood band saw but works beautifully for cutting aluminum, can also get a proper metal blade for it/but would only be used on aluminum and thin sheet metal. You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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| johnnyeHCF |
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This gives a better idea of how the brackets work,bottom brackets are mounted to the lower body,radiator slips in to lower brackets-top brackets slip over the top corners of the radiator bolt go through the front OEM mounting holes into the rivnuts locking the radiator in place while still leaving some room for if there's any body flexing through the foam padding instead of hard-mounting it.
You do not have the required permissions to view the files attached to this post.
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| Mad2 |
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looking goood!
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